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RikkiBobbi

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@RikkiBobbi , I haven't noticed the variable gap but if you have no daylight where the screws are, you are good.




Here's a pic. you can see here that the toe fixation piece seems almost concave, being screwed in on the right almost if not out of frame. The nose of the fixation piece also makes contact with the plate. The middle area being where the daylight is. I have noticed that the toe fixation piece is concave when under zero pressure just sitting on the counter...so pretty sure this is by design. Still odd to me.
 
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Doug Briggs

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If there is no daylight where the screws hold the binding to the plate, I think you are fine. All downward forces, when skiing, are on the area where the screws are.
 

CO Freeskier

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I have a question about mounting bindings on Look’s R22 plates...plate is factory installed on a Dynastar SL ski and binding is and SPX 15. Is there a specific torque for the screws that fasten the binding to the plate? Other than that it looks fairly easy to mount up the binding as the sole length ranges are on the plate and once mounted set your forward pressure.
 

Doug Briggs

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5 - 6 NM is about normal. Hand tightened about 'medium'
 

Uncle-A

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Years ago binding manufacturers agreed on the DIN system for safety settings when will they get together and have all the same screw pattern for toe and heel? When you think about it how hard would it be to the same alignment of screws. It might make a binding mechanics life easier, just one drilling jig for all adult bindings.
 
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Philpug

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Years ago binding manufacturers agreed on the DIN system for safety settings when will they get together and have all the same screw pattern for toe and heel? When you think about it how hard would it be to the same alignment of screws. It might make a binding mechanics life easier, just one drilling jig for all adult bindings.
How could the hole pattern of the Look Pivot be the same as say a Salomon Sth2 or a Marker Griffon? Hell, the heel pattern of a Salomon Warden 11 is different then a Warden 13
 

dbostedo

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How could the hole pattern of the Look Pivot be the same as say a Salomon Sth2 or a Marker Griffon? Hell, the heel pattern of a Salomon Warden 11 is different then a Warden 13

Well you could probably do it... but you'd give the binding designers/engineers a tough constraint to deal with. I'm sure they'd come up with flanges or other methods to adhere to the standard pattern, but I'm thinking that the cost/pain/reduction in freedom to standardize wouldn't be worth the savings in avoiding some hole drilling.
 

Troth

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Does anyone know if the Marker comp 20s are compatible with this plate on a pair of 2016 or 2017 Volkl Racetigers?
 

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Philpug

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Does anyone know if the Marker comp 20s are compatible with this plate on a pair of 2016 or 2017 Volkl Racetigers?
Yes they are.
 

Doug Briggs

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I always use regular waterproof glue in the shop when we do our binding to plate mounts. It isn't necessary. I can't see why Loctite wouldn't be acceptable. The goal is screw retention after all. Most people don't use glue on the binding screws in plates so going without wouldn't be an issue.

The glue we use in the shop comes from SVST and is specifically sold for ski binding mounting. I suspect it is simply bulk waterproof wood glue repackaged for 'ski binding' mounting. In my home shop I just use waterproof wood glue.
 

CalG

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Regarding Marker XL WTR system binding on Volkl RTM.

What can be done to make them easier to get into, WITHOUT compromise to the release and calibration setting?

DIN spring force setting?
Forward Pressure?
BSL position?
Lubrication?
Material removal from some element of binding or boot?

IF some release compromise is permitted, which of the above changes would be "BEST"? (or any other adjustment or change)

Note::
Changing bindings is not an option for the RTM rail system,
Bindings are checked and qualified before I can work in them.
A WTR sole is part of the requirement.

TIA
 

BC.

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Regarding Marker XL WTR system binding on Volkl RTM.

What can be done to make them easier to get into, WITHOUT compromise to the release and calibration setting?

Lol...stronger legs....

In all seriousness, instead of stepping into a Marker binding with the ski/binding directly under you/slightly in front of you.......try stepping into the ski/binding slightly back so that more of your body weight (hips/torso) is “on top” of the heel as you step in.

*Dont change any of the mechanisms of the binding just to be able to step into it.
 

Doug Briggs

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Regarding Marker XL WTR system binding on Volkl RTM.

What can be done to make them easier to get into, WITHOUT compromise to the release and calibration setting?

DIN spring force setting?
Forward Pressure?
BSL position?
Lubrication?
Material removal from some element of binding or boot?

IF some release compromise is permitted, which of the above changes would be "BEST"? (or any other adjustment or change)

Note::
Changing bindings is not an option for the RTM rail system,
Bindings are checked and qualified before I can work in them.
A WTR sole is part of the requirement.

TIA
You could try some silicone spray on the contact points of both The binding heel and the boot heel. Other than that not much can be done to help.
 

CalG

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Lol...stronger legs....

In all seriousness, instead of stepping into a Marker binding with the ski/binding directly under you/slightly in front of you.......try stepping into the ski/binding slightly back so that more of your body weight (hips/torso) is “on top” of the heel as you step in.

*Dont change any of the mechanisms of the binding just to be able to step into it.

No problems getting in on a firm surface. It's the soft stuff and side hills that are the issue.
I need to get in and out of bindings MANY TIMES every day. Such is the nature of the work. ;-)
 

CO Freeskier

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Great info...got the SPX 15s mounted up but I am having trouble finding info on the forward pressure setting. I’ve got the same binding installed in my GS skis (had a shop do the install) and with my boot in the binding you can see the groove on the adjustment screw is just a tad beyond totally exposed (attached a closeup). Is this set properly? Or does that need to be backed off a bit? Haven’t seen any info on the web on the SPX 15.
 

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Philpug

Philpug

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Great info...got the SPX 15s mounted up but I am having trouble finding info on the forward pressure setting. I’ve got the same binding installed in my GS skis (had a shop do the install) and with my boot in the binding you can see the groove on the adjustment screw is just a tad beyond totally exposed (attached a closeup). Is this set properly? Or does that need to be backed off a bit? Haven’t seen any info on the web on the SPX 15.
You need more forward pressure there. the groove should be about flush with the housing with the boot in.
 

Henry

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thread locker like Loctite Blue on the screws?
For a metal-to-metal contact there are a few choices. If the screws are small, Loctite purple will hold but release more easily. Use purple if stripping the screw head is a possibility with a stronger thread locker.

And, there's Vibra-Tite VC-3..."Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate is one of the most versatile threadlockers available on the market. An alternative to traditional liquid lockers which cure to form a hard bond, VC-3 is a blend of resins designed to remain flexible and absorb vibration. This unique difference makes VC-3 coated fasteners truly adjustable, removable, and reusable."
 

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