Bindings 101: What Are Your Questions?

[Uncle-A]

Thanks, I seem to remember a tap handle that was not the typical T- handle for a tap. I think it was available through Salomon because it was a bright orange like the orange color that Salomon uses. It looked like a mini brace and bit with the tap in the chuck instead of a drill bit, it made tapping the holes quick and easy.

I finally got a picture of the tap we use at the shop. It is quick, accurate and easy to use. It has no identifying marks on it. I presume it came from SVST. View attachment 42943

I thought that was a good idea back in the day and it is good to see that some things still work.

 

[Jason Kurth]

What’s the best glue or threadlocker to use when screwing into a plastic plate?

I have previously used wood or roo glue, but I’m thinking vibra tite VC3 might be a better choice when not screwing into wood and straight plastic.

It says it’s safe on plastic and inert once dried onto the metal screw. I know it is recommended for metal inserts but hadnt seen anyone talk about it for plastic.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...ers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/#compatibility

 

[Philpug]

What’s the best glue or threadlocker to use when screwing into a plastic plate?

I have previously used wood or roo glue, but I’m thinking vibra tite VC3 might be a better choice when not screwing into wood and straight plastic.

It says it’s safe on plastic and inert once dried onto the metal screw. I know it is recommended for metal inserts but hadnt seen anyone talk about it for plastic.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...ers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/#compatibility

You don't need amy glue when screwing into a plastic plate. Glue is used when mounting into a ski with wood to act as a sealant from water.

 

[Jason Kurth]

You don't need amy glue when screwing into a plastic plate. Glue is used when mounting into a ski with wood to act as a sealant from water.

I know it’s not needed but I’ve still heard of it commonly being used as extra protection from backing out. Especially seems useful for extra grip on holes that have been mounted and unmounted several times.

 

[markojp]

What Phil said. I don't know where it's commonly used that I'm familiar with.

 

[Jason Kurth]

I even tap and glue plastic plates. Again, it insures a quality hole with threads and the glue hold the screw and makes it much less likely to vibrate loose over time.

Well at least I have some company here.

 

[Philpug]

Well at least I have some company here.

Then I would ask @Doug Briggs,

 

[Doug Briggs]

I use SVST glue. The same stuff we use on the skis. Chuck feels it helps with retention. You'd be surprised how many skis come into the shop with loose binding screws.

 

[Uncle-A]

I use SVST glue. The same stuff we use on the skis. Chuck feels it helps with retention. You'd be surprised how many skis come into the shop with loose binding screws.

The only surprise is that it still happens. It was common 30 years ago and I guess they have not improved much.

 

[chip inderhol]

I have a question regarding a demo binding. A friend bought a demo ski (cpm82) with a cti demo binding. He let me ski it for a few runs and I never really felt connected to the ski. The system was a no tool adjustment that was on rails but the binding seem to be really high off the top of the ski. Am I crazy, or would a regular binding improve the feel of the ski? Or is the height negligible?

 

[jmeb]

I have a question regarding a demo binding. A friend bought a demo ski (cpm82) with a cti demo binding. He let me ski it for a few runs and I never really felt connected to the ski. The system was a no tool adjustment that was on rails but the binding seem to be really high off the top of the ski. Am I crazy, or would a regular binding improve the feel of the ski? Or is the height negligible?

People react very differently to stand height. Some people like the extra leverage it can help provide. Some people hate feeling like they are wearing platforms. Some demos have a mucher higher stand height than others.

What you're describing could very much be the stand or "stack" height from the ski. I know a few people who went from a Duke/Baron touring binding to a regular alpine binding cause they hated how much taller they were.

 

[bbinder]

What bindings have a similar ramp angle to the Marker Jester? I’m thinking of moving to a binding that is a little easier to click into.

 

[RickyG]

Gang...I have "gota" ask...what could possibly be easier than a Marker Jester to snap into? My return to pain-free skiing have been on board same said Jester and I find them very user friendly. On steeps and soft conditions I usually find the technique counts for a lot. Take it from a man who skied on Spademan for years! I love the way spell check tries to change Spademan into Spaceman! OK...last small note the skis are THE TRS's I still have them in the museum.
Ricky G

 

[Doug Briggs]

@RickyG , the Jester has a notably challenging step in pressure depending a lot on your boots. Secondarily, your forward pressure setting can affect the ease (or lack thereof) of stepping in. You have a good combination, so be happy and ignore the others.

 

[jmeb]

Gang...I have "gota" ask...what could possibly be easier than a Marker Jester to snap into?

IME, most every other popular binding out there: the STH2, the SPX, and especially Tyrolia Attacks. Pivots are a weird easy and not easy.

The Marker's heel design seems to rely on a lot more forward pressure than others which can make for a relatively difficult step in.

 

[Philpug]

IME, most every other popular binding out there: the STH2, the SPX, and especially Tyrolia Attacks. Pivots are a weird easy and not easy.

The Marker's heel design seems to rely on a lot more forward pressure than others which can make for a relatively difficult step in.

Maybe the only binding worse to step in than the Jester might be the Squire.

 

[RickyG]

I'm trying to wrap my head around the physics of this. My research says the forward pressure adjustment is the same (forward pressure adjustment screw flush with the housing), so I'm guessing a short sole length has a tough time overcoming the cam/follower/plunger interface? The heel seems to have a "snap" to open and close, it would be interesting to take one apart to see how the spring and plunger do their job. This sounds like a cool project for one of my CAD students....love my Capstone class. Now does someone have a single left over from some broken or abandoned set? I teach 3D parametric solid modeling at Community College of Denver and teach AutoCAD/AutoDesk Inventor/AutoDesk Fusion 360 and last but not least SolidWorks...also have 3D scanning equipment. If can rustle it up I'm pass on a PDF of the Spademan S9 I did a couple of years ago. Here is a sample PDF of my personal work in Inventor.

 

[RickyG]

Boy can I stop a conversation in it's tracks or what?

 

[markojp]

Ricky, I love it, but just haven't had time to comment.

 

[Chris Johnson]

@Bruno Schull , what he said ^.

The STH is a single pivot toe piece while the Warden has multiple moving parts to release. I have used the Salomon 914 and 916, which are nearly identical to the STH, for racing since 2002. The design is tried and true. The newer Warden design is quite similar to Marker's Royal series toe. It is more compact and has wings that move that hold and release the toe of the boot. While not as old a design as the STH/914/916, it has withstood the test of time.

My preference for a recreational binding is one with a mechanical AFD since I hike to ski and this sometimes includes walking on rocks, dirt and grit. A mechanical AFD is more accommodating of debris on the boot AFD interface because it doesn't rely on the boot being able to slide on a stationary surface, Teflon. Rather the boot and AFD interface is static while the AFD itself slides on the binding. I don't have to worry about perfectly clean soles on my boots for good release with the mechanical AFD.

But as @markojp says, it really comes down to personal preference. All current bindings work well: they hold the boot firmly to the ski and release in a predictable manner.

Hi Doug,

Would love your input on a question I've been struggling to answer. Bit of background, got a new pair of skis over the winter (106 underfoot). Original plan was to move my Rossi Axial 120's from my old skis to the new, but am now thinking I'd like to keep a pair of beater skis around.

Cue intense search for which bindings I should get. Learned all about MNC, and since I'm hoping to get into touring in this season or next, I thought it would be best to get a binding that is fully compatible with any boots I may get. I'm hoping to have these skis for a long time, and would want to be able to use them, regardless of what boots I may get down the line.

So I've been looking at the Tyrolia Attack2 14 AT's and the Salomon Warden 13s. Leaning towards the Attacks, as I've found them cheaper online and they are lighter, have a lower stack height, the brakes are narrower (110 vs 115 on the wardens) and a wider base (77 vs 71 on the wardens I believe)

Am I way off base saying I want something uber compatible before I even have touring boots? My current boots are K2 Pinnacles with alpine soles and tech inserts, and this is their 3rd season. But I just keep imagining a scenario a few years from now, I bring an inbounds set up and a touring set up on a trip, it would be nice to only need to bring one pair of boots...

Thank you very much!