Limited space, but need a tuning bench

[cantunamunch]

Please explain why a rotobrush is aboslutely the last thing you want?

Airborne dust. The roto puts significantly more energy into the dust than hand brushing does.

The premise of the clause was that the OP had less space. High energy and small space means higher concentration of dust than in larger spaces.

 

[jt10000]

Airborne dust. The roto puts significantly more energy into the dust than hand brushing does.

The premise of the clause was that the OP had less space. High energy and small space means higher concentration of dust than in larger spaces.

This reminds me of something I heard of a long time ago, but haven't seen anyone do: wetting the ski (with water) before rotobrushing. Does anyone do that?

 

[cantunamunch]

Dayum. I'm kinda embarrassed I didn't think of trying that. Thanks, that made my morning.

I'll probably look like I train duck dogs afterwards, but worth trying.

 

[jt10000]

Dayum. I'm kinda embarrassed I didn't think of trying that. Thanks, that made my morning.

I'll probably look like I train duck dogs afterwards, but worth trying.

I've never tried it but let us know if you do. It might be tricky putting water on a such a hydrophobic surface. Also probably not good for natural-fiber brushed.

PS My Holy Grail of ski equipment if I had the space/etc is the Swix rotobrush attachment connected to a vacuum.

 

[cantunamunch]

I've never tried it but let us know if you do. It might be tricky putting water on a such a hydrophobic surface. Also probably not good for natural-fiber brushed.

PS My Holy Grail of ski equipment if I had the space/etc is the Swix rotobrush attachment connected to a vacuum.

I've been doing 6x9 sheets of white nylon Fibertex chucked into a sheet sander.

Polisher and a mechanical dust trap.

 

[Philpug]

Airborne dust. The roto puts significantly more energy into the dust than hand brushing does.

A couple of sprays of water with a spray bottle stops all that. Still much less of a mess than dealing with wax scrapings

 

[Jilly]

I was going to scrape off into a box or garbage can actually. That will be tonight. I still have a p-tex repair to do and am missing a critical tool.

 

[MikeHunt]

I noticed newer version of World Cup tuning benches are made of aluminum instead of stainless steel, which makes them 20 pounds lighter, which makes them less stable.

 

[johnnyvw]

I was going to scrape off into a box or garbage can actually. That will be tonight. I still have a p-tex repair to do and am missing a critical tool.

Part of my bench kit is a plastic tarp I lay on the floor. I do all my work, fold up the tarp and use it like a funnel to put the debris into the garbage can. The trick is to not wear your shoes off the tarp LOL

 

[Jilly]

That's a old shower curtain under the table.

Last night I was fixing a rock mark on the base and realized that I'm no where near a plug....Need power for the iron! The spot that I'm using has the best light. So I'll have to look around tonight to get things moved.

Setting this up at the condo at Tremblant will be so much easier.

 

[cantunamunch]

just don't drip the ptex on the plastic .

HDPE has much higher melting point and latent heat than LDPE and this is a fast way to find out exactly what that means in practice.

 

[Jilly]

Well the p-tex only went on the ski. I've watch our local shop do it for years. Wax shaving are going to be interesting. My friend in MSA had a good set up. Maybe when I move to a place with a garage....or basement....or.....

 

[cantunamunch]

Well the p-tex only went on the ski. I've watch our local shop do it for years. Wax shaving are going to be interesting. My friend in MSA had a good set up. Maybe when I move to a place with a garage....or basement....or.....

LOL it's a completely different sport down here I guess. Wax shavings come off in nice collectable curls - even the PS5 is tidy if warm scraped before it's cold scraped - and the proof is I now have *two* Crockpots of old ski wax to dip bike chains and steel hand tools in.

 

[skiki]

I think I may have first seen this on SkiDiva

https://www.rei.com/blog/snowsports/diy-how-to-build-a-portable-ski-or-snowboard-waxing-table

 

[Dave Marshak]

I think I may have first seen this on SkiDiva

https://www.rei.com/blog/snowsports/diy-how-to-build-a-portable-ski-or-snowboard-waxing-table

That's too much and not enough at the same time. It's bulky and hard to store, and scraping is still gonna make a mess or at least require cleaning the box every time. Paste wax is clean enough to do on my kitchen counter, and hot wax with an IR lamp is cleaner still. Skip the scraping and brushing and finish with a cork or a SkiMD wax wizard.

And just in case you're curious, I did not dominate NorAm championships waxing that way.

dm

 

[skiki]

Skip the scraping and brushing and finish with a cork or a SkiMD wax wizard.

I noticed the Pro-Glide once (previously the Wax Whizard) when dropping my skis off at SkiMD. You think it does a good job? I might need to pick one up.

 

[Dave Marshak]

I like the Pro-Glide as the last step. I start by melting wax with an IR lamp, then finish with the Pro-Glide when the wax cools. I like that better than a cork, and it doesn't generate dust like brushing. The whole process is so clean that I can do it in the kitchen without a drop cloth. I think it's cleaner than liquid wax, which sometimes drips. Spray was is out of the question indoors.
I don't often skip waxing after sharpening, but sometimes I don't bother with the wax wizard or just use a liquid wax. After the first 100 yards on the snow I can't tell the difference.
That works well enough for me. I only use universal wax, and carry a warm liquid wax in my pocket for warm days. Sometimes it's a little slow but sometimes it's perfect. Trying to match the wax for today's temperature on a mountain with 1000 feet of vertical and several sun exposures and a couple of hours of weather changes is a fool's mission.
FWIW never buy tools in ski shops if you can find equivalents elsewhere. THat especially applies to IR lamps and wax wizards.

dm

 

[cantunamunch]

I noticed the Pro-Glide once (previously the Wax Whizard) when dropping my skis off at SkiMD. You think it does a good job? I might need to pick one up.

If you're going to do hard waxes on the cheap without ironing, it's much easier than corking with a flat cork. Otherwise, overkill.

 

[Scruffy]

I like the Pro-Glide as the last step. I start by melting wax with an IR lamp, then finish with the Pro-Glide when the wax cools. I like that better than a cork, and it doesn't generate dust like brushing. The whole process is so clean that I can do it in the kitchen without a drop cloth. I think it's cleaner than liquid wax, which sometimes drips. Spray was is out of the question indoors.
I don't often skip waxing after sharpening, but sometimes I don't bother with the wax wizard or just use a liquid wax. After the first 100 yards on the snow I can't tell the difference.
That works well enough for me. I only use universal wax, and carry a warm liquid wax in my pocket for warm days. Sometimes it's a little slow but sometimes it's perfect. Trying to match the wax for today's temperature on a mountain with 1000 feet of vertical and several sun exposures and a couple of hours of weather changes is a fool's mission.
FWIW never buy tools in ski shops if you can find equivalents elsewhere. THat especially applies to IR lamps and wax wizards.

dm

Dave,
What IR lamp are you using?

Thanks.

 

[skiki]

If you're going to do hard waxes on the cheap without ironing, it's much easier than corking with a flat cork. Otherwise, overkill.

Hmm, sounds like a good option for travel, but I'm not sure I'd use it enough for the price.