Deburr After Diamond Stone Light Tune?

[Tom K.]

Is a light deburring desired after a "light" maintenance tune, using only stones (no filing)?

I don't want burrs, but I do like a sharp edge.

Thanks!

 

[focker]

I was just wondering about this. In general I just run a hard gummi stone lightly down the edge when done. Not sure it does anything or not.

 

[James]

Probably not as you're not taking off that much metal. It's possible though. Gummi stones aren't good for burrs as they deform.
Usually if you run a plastic tube- say a sharpie body, flat across the base and it gets cut/scraped you've got a burr. I guess one should mimic the base edge angle and hold it up.

 

[Polo]

I always run some kind of hard stone, like a ceramic or hard Arkansas stone, held relatively flat but tipped up just a little, down the length of the base edge after every tune to knock the burr off the edge if there is one. You can use a hard gummi, like the Swix Blue, but I prefer to use some type of hard stone because it gives me a better feel for how much burr is there, if there is one at all. With a hard stone, if there is a burr present you'll feel it through the stone and it'll be a bit draggy, if there is no burr the stone will just glide down the base edge with no resistance.

 

[Tom K.]

Sounds like the answer is you don't really need to, but it can't hurt either.

Thanks, guys!

 

[James]

If you're stoning so much you get burrs, likely you're ruining your stones and wasting your time. Use a file.

 

[focker]

I always run some kind of hard stone, like a ceramic or hard Arkansas stone, held relatively flat but tipped up just a little, down the length of the base edge after every tune to knock the burr off the edge if there is one. You can use a hard gummi, like the Swix Blue, but I prefer to use some type of hard stone because it gives me a better feel for how much burr is there, if there is one at all. With a hard stone, if there is a burr present you'll feel it through the stone and it'll be a bit draggy, if there is no burr the stone will just glide down the base edge with no resistance.

Nice tip. Sounds like I need a Arkansas stone...

 

[Tom K.]

If you're stoning so much you get burrs, likely you're ruining your stones and wasting your time. Use a file.

Kind of what I was thinking. My typical rotation is two light tunes with the stones (every third day of skiing) then a "real" tune with a file, etc.

 

[Jacques]

I always run some kind of hard stone, like a ceramic or hard Arkansas stone, held relatively flat but tipped up just a little, down the length of the base edge after every tune to knock the burr off the edge if there is one. You can use a hard gummi, like the Swix Blue, but I prefer to use some type of hard stone because it gives me a better feel for how much burr is there, if there is one at all. With a hard stone, if there is a burr present you'll feel it through the stone and it'll be a bit draggy, if there is no burr the stone will just glide down the base edge with no resistance.

^ This above. Agree do I

 

[François Pugh]

Most often I don't bother to debur, but a hanging bur doesn't really bother me as I am 99.9 percent of the time trying to make the best arc-2-arc turns I can make - no sideways skiing. My iron does show too many scratches due to my lack of attention to the hanging bur.

This year is the year of my 2nd 3-year CSP on snow recertification, which involves such things as side slip, falling leaf, etc. I better start paying more attention.

 

[Jacques]

If you're stoning so much you get burrs, likely you're ruining your stones and wasting your time. Use a file.

IDK James. Stoning can be a good way between filing. It can surly make a burr which should be addressed. One may not feel it when skiing, but when addressed the edge will last longer.

 

[Karl B]

Yes, you can have hanging burr issues when using diamond files. I only use diamonds to maintain my edges and I follow this procedure:
1. Diamond file side edge with 200 and then 400 grit.
2. I put a worn 400 grit in my base file guide and take two or three swipes, tip to tail. This will push the burr to the side.
3. Wax bases.
4. Before I scrape the bases I take a plastic drywall knife (spreader), put it on a 45* angle to the side and scrape the wax off the edge. This will pull the burr at the same time. I never use a gummi or any stone as I don't want to dull the edge that I have just sharpened. The plastic is hard enough to break the burr off without doing any damage.
5. Scrape base.
6. Brush

 

[KevinF]

I do diamond stone maintenance on the side edge after every day or two of skiing and then run a ceramic stone down the base edge to whack off any burrs along the base edge.

I usually hear some sort of sound indicating that the stone eliminated a burr of some sort. As others posted above, if the base edge is clean then a stone just glides. Whether the burr was created by the stones or whether it was created by skiing... no idea. But it’s there.

 

[Atomicman]

You guys are making this WAY too complicated.

It is simple. Any time, regardless of diamond stone or file and then diamonds, you run a ceramic/surgical/true hard stone flat against the base edge!!!

Ski in a vise, side edge up base away from you. About 1/3 of the stone above the side edge, match the stone to edge bevel (extremely easy, just lay it flat against the base and tilt to metal) make a couple of passes. If their is a HANGING BURR, this will remove it. If there is not, (although there will be) no harm, no foul! DO NOT use a gummi of any kind to do this. If you want to use a gummi, as I do after completing removal of the HANGING BURR, use an x-tra hard blue at a 45 degree angle to the edge-point....WITH ABSOLUTELY NO PRESSURE! NONE!........You WILL HAVE A BURR FREE VERY SMOOTH AND VERY SHARP EDGE.

When feeling for sharpness, your edge must be dry. So if you are diamond stoning.......wipe the edge down, between each grit. If the edge is wet it will not feel sharp to the touch.

 

[Atomicman]

If you're stoning so much you get burrs, likely you're ruining your stones and wasting your time. Use a file.

True or False....... FALSE!

Maybe you are misunderstanding what the burr is we are talking about.

It is a hanging burr....a very small metal ridge that is formed when ANY sharpening of the side edge is done. It forms continuing straight down the side edge past the base edge, down into the snow and wreaks total havoc with ski performance. It is minute and can't really be seen with the naked eye. But you can feel it. And try skiing with a ski with a hanging burr...Simply miserable!

 

[Polo]

You guys are making this WAY too complicated.

It is simple. Any time, regardless of diamond stone or file and then diamonds, you run a ceramic/surgical/true hard stone flat against the base edge!!!

Ski in a vise, side edge up base away from you. About 1/3 of the stone above the side edge, match the stone to edge bevel (extremely easy, just lay it flat against the base and tilt to metal) make a couple of passes. If their is a HANGING BURR, this will remove it. If there is not, (although there will be) no harm, no foul! DO NOT use a gummi of any kind to do this. If you want to use a gummi, as I do after completing removal of the HANGING BURR, use an x-tra hard blue at a 45 degree angle to the edge-point....WITH ABSOLUTELY NO PRESSURE! NONE!........You WILL HAVE A BURR FREE VERY SMOOTH AND VERY SHARP EDGE.

When feeling for sharpness, your edge must be dry. So if you are diamond stoning.......wipe the edge down, between each grit. If the edge is wet it will not feel sharp to the touch.

That's about as spot on as you can get. You can pretend or try and believe there isn't any burr there, but generally, there is some amount of a burr present after tuning and since it takes so little extra time to just run some type of hard stone down the base edge, I'm not sure why anyone wouldn't want to.

To somewhat contradict my own words, I do have to say, when using my Swix Evo, it leaves virtually no burr, but even at that, I still use a surgical hard stone or ceramic against the base edge when I'm done.

A-man, I'll be curious to hear if you notice the same thing once you've spent some tuning time with your new Razor-Tune. My guess is, even if you feel no burr, like myself, you'll still run a hard stone down the base edge when you're done.

 

[Atomicman]

That's about as spot on as you can get. You can pretend or try and believe there isn't any burr there, but generally, there is some amount of a burr present after tuning and since it takes so little extra time to just run some type of hard stone down the base edge, I'm not sure why anyone wouldn't want to.

To somewhat contradict my own words, I do have to say, when using my Swix Evo, it leaves virtually no burr, but even at that, I still use a surgical hard stone or ceramic against the base edge when I'm done.

A-man, I'll be curious to hear if you notice the same thing once you've spent some tuning time with your new Razor-Tune. My guess is, even if you feel no burr, like myself, you'll still run a hard stone down the base edge when you're done.

Yep, still run a stone. Razor-Tune is stoooopid easy to use. Solid as rock. I ahve not skied on the tune , yet, but will be at Whistler all next week and it sounds like we will have some POW and then some sunny days, with some decently hard snow. So I will report back.

And POLO thanks for the kind words. Loved you post!

 

[flbufl]

@Polo @Atomicman
I came across this thread while trouble shooting my recent tuning with the Swix Evo.
After being sharpened by the Swix Evo, one pair of my skis started to skip (bite and release) irregularly when being put on edge. I think it is the exact symptom of hanging burrs described in a few other threads.

Interestingly, Swix specifically claims the EVO does not create hanging burrs.

My currently suspicions are:

• False advertising. The Swix EVO does create hanging burrs.
• I skipped one step of the tuning. Before using the EVO, I did not use a 200 grits diamond stone to remove existing burrs on the side as recommended by Swix.

Any thoughts?

To somewhat contradict my own words, I do have to say, when using my Swix Evo, it leaves virtually no burr, but even at that, I still use a surgical hard stone or ceramic against the base edge when I'm done.

 

[Novaloafah]

I'm not as experience as some of the previous posters, but it seems very probably that putting force on your side edge with any type of file or stone will cause the metal to form a hanging burr. Any time I re-set an angle or sharpen the edges (side) I've always used a stone to run down the base edge. Atlantic Canada has very hard(icy) conditions and with a 1/3 tune using a stone to get rid of possible hanging burrs has done me no wrong.

I think I read this on a post way back in the Epic days....likely author @Atomicman I believe

 

[Atomicman]

I'm not as experience as some of the previous posters, but it seems very probably that putting force on your side edge with any type of file or stone will cause the metal to form a hanging burr. Any time I re-set an angle or sharpen the edges (side) I've always used a stone to run down the base edge. Atlantic Canada has very hard(icy) conditions and with a 1/3 tune using a stone to get rid of possible hanging burrs has done me no wrong.

I think I read this on a post way back in the Epic days....likely author @Atomicman I believe

Yep, you got it perfectly Boss, and probably was me! Knocking off a potential hanging Burr will do no harm!