Cra-cra bottom bevel situation

[Sibhusky]

I'd just go back to the first shop and ask them to finish the job.

 

[Tricia]

What did you decide to do with these skis?

 

[sparty]

What did you decide to do with these skis?

If you're asking me, they're back at the same shop in the hands of the more-patient tech (the guy I coach with isn't back yet, I'm pretty sure he's still in roofing-contractor mode), with the specific request to please make them flat, if possible. I dropped off those, my other all-mountain skis that need base repair next to the edge thanks to a Chilean shark, and my wife's all-mountain skis, which need multiple base repairs due to Chilean sharks (she instinctively tried to slow down instead of straight-running through the thin section) and don't have a lot of material left to begin with. If they can get all three pairs happy and it doesn't cost me more than $200, I'll be happy.

 

[crgildart]

What did you decide to do with these skis?

They're probably still hand filing them... all spring, summer, and in to fall.. base bevel now down to a 3?

 

[Atomicman]

@Doug Briggs Got it, thanks. My misunderstanding.

I would, however, have a hard time holding a 60 mm straightedge to perfectly match the bevel on about 1mm of edge (is the entire steel even beveled?) projected out. I could get a pretty good idea if it's 1 or 7 but I'm not sure my accuracy of measurement would discern 1 vs .5 degrees - especially with uneven wear.

At least it's a good way to get an idea - if my kid with good eyes and a steady hand helps.

Eric

That is because you wouldn't actually look at it that way..Alternatively, you put the true bar flat to the base and eyeball the space over the steel edge. You can get very good at eyeballing what a .5 or 1 should look like this way.

 

[Noodler]

That is because you wouldn't actually look at it that way..Alternatively, you put the true bar flat to the base and eyeball the space over the steel edge. You can get very good at eyeballing what a .5 or 1 should look like this way.

Here's another option that's quick and works fairly well:

 

[Atomicman]

Here's another option that's quick and works fairly well:

View attachment 82544

Actually, I just use an SVST bevel gauge!

 

[Noodler]

Actually, I just use an SVST bevel gauge!

Certainly a nice option, but at a much, much higher cost. The point of my post was to provide a cheaper way to estimate the bevel angle.

 

[Atomicman]

Certainly a nice option, but at a much, much higher cost. The point of my post was to provide a cheaper way to estimate the bevel angle.

NO argument there....but ya get what ya pay for!

 

[Noodler]

NO argument there....but ya get what ya pay for!

Yep, but I have seen many threads with all kinds of crazy ideas and ways of measuring/estimating the base bevel angle. I figured I'd put my solution up on this thread. All you need is a true bar, Irwin clamp, and a digital angle gauge. The key is the Irwin clamp since the jaws have pads that freely rotate and will match the angle of the base edge.

 

[tube77]

Got them from Ebay and never thought to check the base bevel......didn't like them that much ,,..only skied them twoice this year.....just thought it was my skiing that needed adjustment as I am always messing with my cants......

Same experience here..
Thought it was on me but it turned out to be the ski with unskiable base bevel..

 

[oldschoolskier]

I’m reading this thread and thinking there seems a lot of arguments about reading base bevel accuracy. Yet no one talks about calibrating and checking their tools of measurement.

When I set up up my tools I do calibrate off of a granite surface plate with a flatness of 0.0002” or 0.00508mm over the entire surface of 24” x 36”. Take my word this is flat (to get any flatter a true environmental controlled room and serious $$$$ in a surface plate with on site setup is required, I’ve seen such a set up and seen the impact of train a block away changing measurements by less than 0.00001”) My most accurate dial gauges reads 0.0005” or 0.0127mm but can be guesstimated down to about half that with reasonable confidence

So if you are going to argue accuracy check your tools first.

Personally, I’d use a simple straight edge (good true bar is more stable) and a feeler gauge. Better accuracy and simpler to use.