Scrundy

I like beer
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Not a bike rider but if I was I’d just use tranny fluid, cleans and lubes can’t go wrong with that.
 

CalG

Out on the slopes
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Not a bike rider but if I was I’d just use tranny fluid, cleans and lubes can’t go wrong with that.
The problem with "just oil" type lubes is that the lubrication doesn't stay in the pins where it is needed. The motor bike crowd all went to o-ring chains. The o-rings seal in the lube. The chains last a LONG time, but at the expense of friction at every pin.

"Chain-wax" Is a great product, lubes and runs clean. Ask for it by name! ;-)

https://www.amazon.com/d/Car-Waxes/Maxima-74920-Chain-Wax-Aerosol/B0012TZ1RU
 
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Erik Timmerman

Erik Timmerman

Skiing the powder
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Muc-off Dry Lube has been working out here...because it's very dry.
It turns out my Muc-Off dry had a little cap under the applicator. Started using it last week. FWIW, the Muc-Off Dry Ceramic makes for a way cleaner bike! A couple bucks more, but try some when you run out of what you have now.
 
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Erik Timmerman

Erik Timmerman

Skiing the powder
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As far as the Muc-Off goes, I've been using the dry and the ceramic for the last month or two. I;m wishing the Dry was a small bottle, I'm gonna feel bad throwing it away, the ceramic is so much better. The dry just sits there all globe up on the chain, the green ceramic stuff just disappears into the roller as soon as you apply it. I also got a bottle of the purple ceramic wet, but won't need it until fall.
 

Tony S

thread drift a specialty
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I've been meaning to report that a while back I bought a bottle of Squirt, based on @Ron 's earlier post. Followed the directions to the letter. It's been working fabulously on the MTB, not so much on the road bike. It's attracting a lot of clumpy grit on the road for some reason. On the other hand my road chain is always yuckier. I blame the original Shimano chain coating which was, apparently, like contact cement or something.
 
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Erik Timmerman

Erik Timmerman

Skiing the powder
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I love the original Shimano grease! If I could ride it forever I would never lube my chain. In one of the earlier Velonews articles referenced above, the original grease fared very well!
 

Primoz

Making fresh tracks
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Slovenia, Europe
It turns out my Muc-Off dry had a little cap under the applicator. Started using it last week. FWIW, the Muc-Off Dry Ceramic makes for a way cleaner bike!
I saw this too late as I just week or two ago, I bought another can of Muc-Off Dry lube, but spray can not oil. I have been using Motorex Dry lube before, and was working ok, but then I accidentally (they didn't have Motorex in store, so I took Muc-Off) tried Muc-off and it worked better. Durability feels a bit shorter then with Motorex, but it gets so much less dirt and dust on chain so all in all I would say it works better. I somehow don't like normal oil and prefer spray can, so does this Ceramic comes in spray too or just as "regular oil"?
 

Ron

Seeking the next best ski
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so captain obvious here, but remember to throughly clean and degrease your chain before you apply. FWIW, I recruited my neighbor as my tester. He's 71 and still crushes it, (did the 108 mile 7500 vert ride at the Tour De Steamboat) and rides over a 100 miles per week) I bought 4 different lubes and he tested them. I think the type of "dirt" thats in your areas has a lot to do with what works best for you.

I spoke with a rider at the STB GRVL on team Panaracer who is using the Muc-off Nanaotube 65.00 stuff. He says its worth it for gravel riding. No way I'm spending 65.00 on lube especially when I am too OCD about cleaning my drive train.https://us.muc-off.com/collections/bicycle-step-3-lube/products/nanotube-chain-lube-1
 

EricG

Lost somewhere!
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I've been meaning to report that a while back I bought a bottle of Squirt, based on @Ron 's earlier post. Followed the directions to the letter. It's been working fabulously on the MTB, not so much on the road bike. It's attracting a lot of clumpy grit on the road for some reason. On the other hand my road chain is always yuckier. I blame the original Shimano chain coating which was, apparently, like contact cement or something.
You need to remove the Shimano sludge before putting Squirt on. I find Squirt works best after the 2nd or 3rd application. At that pint all the pins/plates are nicely lubed. It kept my demo bikes running nice & quiet.
 

Tony S

thread drift a specialty
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You need to remove the Shimano sludge before putting Squirt on.
Yeah, undertook a major degreasing and drying effort, not for the first time with that chain, before applying the Squirt. I've used citrus cleaner, mineral spirits, chain machine, etc., over the course of a couple years. Short of an overnight bath in a shop degreasing tub, I've gone beyond the call of duty. There is just something evil about whatever that stuff is, no matter what Timmerman says. :eek:
 

EricG

Lost somewhere!
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Yeah, undertook a major degreasing and drying effort, not for the first time with that chain, before applying the Squirt. I've used citrus cleaner, mineral spirits, chain machine, etc., over the course of a couple years. Short of an overnight bath in a shop degreasing tub, I've gone beyond the call of duty. There is just something evil about whatever that stuff is, no matter what Timmerman says. :eek:
That’s part of the reason I only use KMC chains. I can’t deal with the SS (Shimano Sludge).
 

Rudi Riet

AKA songfta AKA randomduck - a USSS coach, as well
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My go-to lubes:

All-around (especially when there's a lot of rain and not a lot of opportunity to do a proper washing every time): NFS. The stuff lasts a long time with a minimal application. The longevity follow-up on the aforementioned tests shows that NFS has better staying power than Squirt or the other thinner lubes. One 4 ounce bottle of NFS lasts me almost a whole season, and my chains run smoothly with a lot less wear.

In more dry conditions: either Lilly Lube or Rock-n-Roll Gold. Both are great, but they aren't as long-lasting as NFS. They are a bit "faster," per the tests, but I only use them as needs warrant.

In wet conditions: NFS, though I'll occasionally break out Boeshield T-9 on my gravel bike as it is better at shedding accumulated muck (though not as long lasting as NFS).

But the big thing to take away from all of this is: clean and lube your chain regularly. Clean your chainrings and cassette, too, because they'll last longer. And if you want true drivetrain longevity for the most pricey parts, replace your chain often - thus why I'm not the guy buying top-of-the-line chains, opting instead for KMC X10 or X11 chains at $18-20 a pop and replacing them every 2,000-2,500 miles.
 
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