- Joined
- Nov 12, 2015
- Posts
- 6,302
Not a bike rider but if I was I’d just use tranny fluid, cleans and lubes can’t go wrong with that.
Muc-off Dry Lube has been working out here...because it's very dry.
I saw this too late as I just week or two ago, I bought another can of Muc-Off Dry lube, but spray can not oil. I have been using Motorex Dry lube before, and was working ok, but then I accidentally (they didn't have Motorex in store, so I took Muc-Off) tried Muc-off and it worked better. Durability feels a bit shorter then with Motorex, but it gets so much less dirt and dust on chain so all in all I would say it works better. I somehow don't like normal oil and prefer spray can, so does this Ceramic comes in spray too or just as "regular oil"?It turns out my Muc-Off dry had a little cap under the applicator. Started using it last week. FWIW, the Muc-Off Dry Ceramic makes for a way cleaner bike!
I somehow don't like normal oil and prefer spray can, so does this Ceramic comes in spray too or just as "regular oil"?
I've been meaning to report that a while back I bought a bottle of Squirt, based on @Ron 's earlier post. Followed the directions to the letter. It's been working fabulously on the MTB, not so much on the road bike. It's attracting a lot of clumpy grit on the road for some reason. On the other hand my road chain is always yuckier. I blame the original Shimano chain coating which was, apparently, like contact cement or something.
You need to remove the Shimano sludge before putting Squirt on.
Yeah, undertook a major degreasing and drying effort, not for the first time with that chain, before applying the Squirt. I've used citrus cleaner, mineral spirits, chain machine, etc., over the course of a couple years. Short of an overnight bath in a shop degreasing tub, I've gone beyond the call of duty. There is just something evil about whatever that stuff is, no matter what Timmerman says.
My go-to lubes:
In wet conditions: NFS, though I'll occasionally break out Boeshield T-9 on my gravel bike as it is better at shedding accumulated muck (though not as long lasting as NFS).
But the big thing to take away from all of this is: clean and lube your chain regularly. Clean your chainrings and cassette, too, because they'll last longer. And if you want true drivetrain longevity for the most pricey parts, replace your chain often - thus why I'm not the guy buying top-of-the-line chains, opting instead for KMC X10 or X11 chains at $18-20 a pop and replacing them every 2,000-2,500 miles.