Wax scraping base

[Scruffy]

Ever felt like trying 2-3-4 stacked scrapers clamped together?

#worksforGillette

With a spacer between each scraper. #mightwork

 

[cantunamunch]

With a spacer between each scraper. #mightwork

Why a spacer? These are 5mm plexi we're talking of, not 2-3 mm door nameplates.

I mean we need to leave them loose for both sharpening and edge alignment to the ski and each other - but we all have plenty of squeeze clamps by now.

You're really kind of right though - I really want to try multi with @Jacques ' steel scraper technique. I already have the magnets for it; getting those apart afterwards will be a nightmare without spacers.

 

[Yo Momma]

I use the shop towel method, but still scrape and brush. The shop towel method reduces the wax to scrap off significantly but for me not entirely. Do you brush or just ski it after shop towel method?

Yes. I rotobrush + manual brush touchup after the shop towel.

 

[cantunamunch]

^ lol if herself cared about wax scrapings on the workroom lino, she'd pitch an absolute fit over roto dust aerosols getting into her nice clean ductwork and the cats' lungs.

 

[Tom K.]

I use the shop towel method, but still scrape and brush. The shop towel method reduces the wax to scrap off significantly but for me not entirely.

Same.

Hand-brush only. Not a fan of the roto brush.

 

[cantunamunch]

Same.

Did you ever do the Kuzmin thing to your old dead XC bases? The stacked steel thing would be the next step.

 

[Tom K.]

Did you ever do the Kuzmin thing to your old dead XC bases? The stacked steel thing would be the next step.

Dunno, but I've done the steel "scratch" brush, followed by regular steel brush, brass brush, steel scraper, then a couple of different scotch brites.

I would have to say marginally effective. So hard to find somebody locally that can correctly grind an xc base, and I've never cared quite enough to ship them off.

 

[cantunamunch]

Dunno, but I've done the steel "scratch" brush, followed by regular steel brush, brass brush, steel scraper, then a couple of different scotch brites.

I would have to say marginally effective. So hard to find somebody locally that can correctly grind an xc base, and I've never cared quite enough to ship them off.

Well, summer night project, eh.

 

[Atomicman]

Shop towel? ........ Fiberlene sheets thank you!

 

[Lvovsky /Pasha/Pavel]

World needs more fiberlene method videos. I’m sure I can improve whatever I’m doing

 

[Prosper]

Same.

Hand-brush only. Not a fan of the roto brush.

I love my roto brushes. So much faster with much less effort. Best non-ski gift I bought myself in a long time.

 

[Tom K.]

I love my roto brushes. So much faster with much less effort. Best non-ski gift I bought myself in a long time.

To each their own, no problems.

But I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick than get rotobrushed wax dust all over my bike/ski/car/motorcycle shop.

I went the roto route briefly, but reverted to good old hand brushing. I'm semi-retired, so I've got the extra few minutes.

 

[Prosper]

To each their own, no problems.

But I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick than get rotobrushed wax dust all over my bike/ski/car/motorcycle shop.

I went the roto route briefly, but reverted to good old hand brushing. I'm semi-retired, so I've got the extra few minutes.

I my (quiver of 3), my wife’s and my 5 kids’ skis to tune so faster is better. Plus I’m tuning in the unfinished area of the basement and clean up after tuning most of the time.

 

[Sibhusky]

My roto brush has a cover and there's a cheap mat on the floor. Yes, there's a faint haze of wax on the pegboard, but it's not much. I wipe the cover of the brush occasionally. If you do a good job scraping, it's not that bad. The trouble is, a lot of rotobrush users are lazy scrapers.

 

[Tom K.]

Guess I'll just continue through life being wrong, and, apparently, lazy.

But with a very clean shop!

 

[Yo Momma]

My roto brush has a cover and there's a cheap mat on the floor. Yes, there's a faint haze of wax on the pegboard, but it's not much. I wipe the cover of the brush occasionally. If you do a good job scraping, it's not that bad. The trouble is, a lot of rotobrush users are lazy scrapers.

Yes ...... If skis sitting for summer spray on base cleaner first and wipe off dirt/dust, 1x rough Fiberlene (Purple) then lightly crayon like a 8 yo tryin' to light firecrackers w/ an iron! (Maybe a Bronx thing at that age back then!)
Iron smooth then Slow shop towel/high iron temp cleans up most of the Toko Universal wax (I buy it in bulk for cheap and have others but this works in all temps)... I use cheap plug in drill only 15sec roto brush (Toko Universal Grey Nylon very little dust).... quick hand brush Toko white nylon.... 1x fiberlene (Yes! thanks for the reminder @Atomicman gentle pressure med (orange) then soft (white).... then Zardoz Bass Boost and dry for 10 min for that mirror ice skates feel & finish! Fast when doing 3-5 sets of skis.

Agreed w/ @Tom K. NO ROTO anywhere near bikes, car, motos/boats/kayaks/gaming computers, or anything of Wifey's! LOL


For travel out west; Procedure above once, and take a Zardoz Bass Boost puck or your portable wax of choice, for daily touch up for 7-10 days. Longer than that and I'll need a local shop for a hot wax touch up.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Scrape and brush as much or as little as you feel like. Getting the gunk out is good.

 

[Tom K.]

Scrape and brush as much or as little as you feel like. Getting the gunk out is good.

Agree. Big fan of what I'll call "pre-brushing".

 

[vtmecheng]

I brushed with a brass brush prior to waxing in order to clean the base some and wiped it off.

 

[Zirbl]

For those who scrape, how long till it's done and you're ready to brush? I know this depends on the wax, but what sort of range are we talking? And are you literally scraping till nothing comes off and then brushing? Scraping videos all seem to show a pass or two and skip to brushing before the viewers switch off, so any info would be appreciated here.

Would be also interested to know how well the fiberlene method works with the hardest waxes.

@Primoz , and other race techs I've read, talk about leaving wax on in a warm environment for a couple of hours before scraping. I know they're prepping for a different level of skier, but if you're doing a race ski, you might as well do it thoroughly. Does the ski need to have a thicker layer for a wait of several hours to be worthwhile, or does the fiberlene method leave sufficient wax around for the levels of absorption these guys are aiming for?

Thanks.