I got a pretty nasty core shot yesterday while skiing Upper Dunes at Breck. I felt it when it happened and later while I was continuing the run, the ripped base material significantly affected how the ski would track. I used the other ski's edge to scrape off the material which I saved (no littering). You can see the material I removed and the trimmed core shot below. I used a knife to trim the gouge as it had some jaggies. Be conservative with a knife. Original material is better than repair material unless you are doing an actual patch with base material. I may show that process later.
I like to use Metal Grip, a commercially available product designed specifically to provide a bond between a core/metal and P-Tex. I apply it with a soldering iron that has a flat or chisel tip. Here you can see the pieces of metal grip that I have placed on the ski. I used the soldering iron as a hot knife to cut the Metal Grip into small pieces. When you apply the Metal Grip you aren't trying to fill the hole, but to create a layer of material that will bond to the core/metal leaving space to add P-Tex on top. Metal Grip can not be applied by burning as P-Tex can. This is the primary reason I use a soldering iron now for most of my repairs. I got it for the Metal Grip and use it, instead of fire, for P-Tex.
Working the Metal Grip in with the soldering iron. Note that I let one side of the iron's tip go into the gouge. This insures that there is space left to add P-Tex. I'll let the iron's tip go into the gouge on the other side as well.
Once the Metal Grip has cooled, I remove the excess with a Panzer file.
I'm applying the P-Tex now. Since I'm filling the space now, I just melt P-Tex straight from the coil of P-Tex; P-Tex in a coil or on a spool is designed for use in a P-Tex repair gun. It is smaller in diameter than a stick and easier to work with the iron. You can do the same with a P-Tex stick, however. The tape is there to hold the P-Tex so I can take a photo. Normally I hold the P-Tex in one hand, the iron in the other; no camera involved.
Spreading the P-Tex around.
The first clearing of the excess P-Tex with the Panzer file reveals dips where I didn't use enough. This is fine. You don't need to completely fill the hole in one fell swoop. You can go back again with more P-Tex as below.
The second layer of P-Tex.
Filed with the Panzer, then scraped with a metal cabinet scraper that has a sharp, square edge.
I could take this to the shop and apply structure to the repair. If this wasn't a ski that I expect to damage some more, I'd do that. A race ski, for sure, would get the repair structured if it were of this magnitude.
It is always important to fix damage like this quickly as water can penetrate the damage and begin delaminating the ski. Additionally, any dirt or wax that finds its way into the damage can reduce the effectiveness of the repair. If you haven't been able to repair the ski promptly, you could apply some Metal Grip or P-Tex, then pull it out. This is an effective way to remove any loose material and foreign matter. Wax remover could also be used, but you run the risk of leaving some solvent behind.
Another thing to note is that original P-Tex has a higher temperature than P-Tex repair sticks. You can heat the base up with the soldering iron and it shouldn't melt where the Metal Grip and P-Tex stick will.
I like to use Metal Grip, a commercially available product designed specifically to provide a bond between a core/metal and P-Tex. I apply it with a soldering iron that has a flat or chisel tip. Here you can see the pieces of metal grip that I have placed on the ski. I used the soldering iron as a hot knife to cut the Metal Grip into small pieces. When you apply the Metal Grip you aren't trying to fill the hole, but to create a layer of material that will bond to the core/metal leaving space to add P-Tex on top. Metal Grip can not be applied by burning as P-Tex can. This is the primary reason I use a soldering iron now for most of my repairs. I got it for the Metal Grip and use it, instead of fire, for P-Tex.
Working the Metal Grip in with the soldering iron. Note that I let one side of the iron's tip go into the gouge. This insures that there is space left to add P-Tex. I'll let the iron's tip go into the gouge on the other side as well.
Once the Metal Grip has cooled, I remove the excess with a Panzer file.
I'm applying the P-Tex now. Since I'm filling the space now, I just melt P-Tex straight from the coil of P-Tex; P-Tex in a coil or on a spool is designed for use in a P-Tex repair gun. It is smaller in diameter than a stick and easier to work with the iron. You can do the same with a P-Tex stick, however. The tape is there to hold the P-Tex so I can take a photo. Normally I hold the P-Tex in one hand, the iron in the other; no camera involved.
Spreading the P-Tex around.
The first clearing of the excess P-Tex with the Panzer file reveals dips where I didn't use enough. This is fine. You don't need to completely fill the hole in one fell swoop. You can go back again with more P-Tex as below.
The second layer of P-Tex.
Filed with the Panzer, then scraped with a metal cabinet scraper that has a sharp, square edge.
I could take this to the shop and apply structure to the repair. If this wasn't a ski that I expect to damage some more, I'd do that. A race ski, for sure, would get the repair structured if it were of this magnitude.
It is always important to fix damage like this quickly as water can penetrate the damage and begin delaminating the ski. Additionally, any dirt or wax that finds its way into the damage can reduce the effectiveness of the repair. If you haven't been able to repair the ski promptly, you could apply some Metal Grip or P-Tex, then pull it out. This is an effective way to remove any loose material and foreign matter. Wax remover could also be used, but you run the risk of leaving some solvent behind.
Another thing to note is that original P-Tex has a higher temperature than P-Tex repair sticks. You can heat the base up with the soldering iron and it shouldn't melt where the Metal Grip and P-Tex stick will.
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