Using Metal-Grip, P-Tex and a soldering iron to repair a core shot

[Jacques]

I did a experiment with JB weld before fixing mine shot. I mixed a small amount put in 2 piles, I then put ptex right over before it cured. Came back in 20 to check adhesion and man that ptex stuck so I went ahead and did my ski. The second pile I was going to wait till JB cured and then ptex,but with results I got before cured I was very happy with I didn’t bother. View attachment 87773 View attachment 87774 View attachment 87775

Photo of final scraping? Or you just going to ski it like that?

 

[Scrundy]

JB weld a no go, did not work.

 

[Scrundy]

Photo of final scraping? Or you just going to ski it like that?

No not scraped yet, found out scraping JB weld not the answer gonna have to order metalgrip. Guess I’ll have to ski something else this weekend.

 

[BClipped]

Really useful thread. It partly helped me answer a question I had about whether p-tex repairs need base texture re-doing. Intuitively I thought yes, but no one else seems to mention that - just sand it smooth and call it done.

Thanks for the info.

 

[CalG]

I would like to hear about how the repair holds up.

I have trouble getting a base fill to hold for more than a few days of varied conditions. (frozen granular) ;-)

 

[Noodler]

I would like to hear about how the repair holds up.

I have trouble getting a base fill to hold for more than a few days of varied conditions. (frozen granular) ;-)

I have never had a metal grip (copoly) repair pull out.

 

[Scruffy]

JB weld a no go, did not work.

What didn't work, Scrundy?
I have successfully used JB Weld at an edge gouge where the gouge went to the metal of the edge where the ptex overlaps the edge. I leave some room atop the JB Weld to melt some ptex over and then dress as usual.
But if you have Metal-Grip, use that.

 

[Scrundy]

What didn't work, Scrundy?
I have successfully used JB Weld at an edge gouge where the gouge went to the metal of the edge where the ptex overlaps the edge. I leave some room atop the JB Weld to melt some ptex over and then dress as usual.
But if you have Metal-Grip, use that.

Yeah I had a problem with the ptex sticking to JB. When I scraped it pulled off especially near the edge.

 

[Jacques]

Yeah I had a problem with the ptex sticking to JB. When I scraped it pulled off especially near the edge.

Fix the shots with what is made to do the job. Live and learn do we.

 

[PNWRod]

I've used an orange Ptex stick on the bottom of my son's skis before. He had a super long deep gouge down his ski and I only had clear, blue, orange and black Ptex. He wanted orange. I have to say it looked pretty cool as it almost looked like the black base was designed with the long orange S streak. The orange was from my old Olin DTSL days cause it had an orange base. Also I normally use a propane torch, the same one I use for sweating copper pipe. I've never liked the black flakes in the repair if you light them.

 

[Tony S]

@Doug Briggs what steps do you take to prep the gouge for cleanliness before using the metal grip? For example, if I suspect dirt / rust, would you recommend using a soft wire toothbrush and some kind of solvent like alcohol or mineral spirits?

 

[Noodler]

@Doug Briggs what steps do you take to prep the gouge for cleanliness before using the metal grip? For example, if I suspect dirt / rust, would you recommend using a soft wire toothbrush and some kind of solvent like alcohol or mineral spirits?

I've always used a fine wire brush or toothbrush and compressed air. I wouldn't recommend using solvents on a core shot, but maybe others have tried it.

 

[Atomicman]

I heat the surrounding area to the p-tex repair. Problems develop when the surrounding base is cool and you put hot p-tex in the repair area. I also do this with metal grip. I make sure everything is pretty warm, obviously not hot enough to damage anything.

 

[Doug Briggs]

A Dremel tool can do some real good with rust. I sometimes also use the Dremel to remove p-tex to get a cleaner edge. More often, I'll use a utility knife to trim the edge, especially if it is ragged. I try not to use solvents, but if someone brought their skis in after waxing them to get a repair, I'd possibly use a solvent (we use Agent Orange, a citrus cleaner) to insure that all the wax is gone if I wasn't certain that the dremel or cleaning with a utility knife hadn't removed all the wax.

You want the edges of the hole you are filling to be clean and straight without jaggies. I like cutting football shaped edges if the edge of the ski isn't involved. When going up against the edge, I'll make a half-football. This is more important with large gouges.



Small ones I might just metal-grip and p-tex without any knife work.

 

[chopchop]

This is the primary reason I use a soldering iron now for most of my repairs. I got it for the Metal Grip and use it, instead of fire, for P-Tex.

Working the Metal Grip in with the soldering iron. Note that I let one side of the iron's tip go into the gouge. This insures that there is space left to add P-Tex. I'll let the iron's tip go into the gouge on the other side as well.

Hey @Doug Briggs - Reviving this thread

I have a base repair project lined up that will require metal grip. You said here you used the same soldering iron for both metal grip and P-Tex. I have heard and read that metal grip requires a lower temp than P-Tex. So I'm wondering:

1. Do you have/recommend a soldering iron with adjustable temp?
2. And/or is this not actually an issue? (i.e. you can use the same higher temp on the metal grip.)

Thanks.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Metal grip requires a higher temp. That makes it much more straight forward for melting the p-tex without melting the metal grip as well.

My iron is adjustable. The gold 'dit' is for metal grip. the long silver mark is for p-tex. There is quite a difference in heat. You can simply drip p-text in the traditional way if you prefer.

 

[chopchop]

Metal grip requires a higher temp. That makes it much more straight forward for melting the p-tex without melting the metal grip as well.

My iron is adjustable. The gold 'dit' is for metal grip. the long silver mark is for p-tex. There is quite a difference in heat. You can simply drip p-text in the traditional way if you prefer.

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Gotcha.

Nice iron!

I've been looking around for references to ideal temps for each. Easier said than done. What temps do you set to?

 

[Doug Briggs]

Gotcha.

Nice iron!

I've been looking around for references to ideal temps for each. Easier said than done. What temps do you set to?

Gold and silver.

It was trial and error. Basically turn it up until things melt.

 

[skistudent]

Used similar approach as others: cleaned with a knife, then Metal Grip cord, then P-tex ribbon, then P-tex candle. After scraping I used SkiVisions base flattener base to atttempt to put some structure in the repaired area.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Used similar approach as others: cleaned with a knife, then Metal Grip cord, then P-tex ribbon, then P-tex candle. After scraping I used SkiVisions base flattener base to atttempt to put some structure in the repaired area.

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Nicely done.

I find that I often need a second layer of p-tex on large repairs. It seems to be better to build up the volume in stages than trying to get it done in one pass.