The Atomic Professional Series

[onenerdykid]

You can see, though, how this nomenclature is confusing for consumers, right? (High volume boot or high volume tongue?)

Might I respectfully suggest that Atomic simplify things by simply designating tongues as "thick", "medium", or "thin"?

I don't disagree. Our thinking was two fold- not every culture uses English, especially France & Italy, but almost all have become accustomed to using HV, MV, LV. What they saw as confusing was HV shells are "loose" and HV liners are "thick/tight", which was weird for them. In actuality, an HV shell is not thicker than a LV shell, but if we follow some current aftermarkt brand's approach, an HV tongue would be thicker than a LV tongue. We sought to align this in terms of the fit that each produces - you are gaining more space by going with an HV product (whether that is a boot or a tongue).

Right now there are quite a few of these products in the warehouse and each tongue is labeled as HV, MV, LV - not just the box. If we decide to change, it won't be any time soon.

 

[BLiP]

Might I respectfully suggest that Atomic simplify things by simply designating tongues as "thick", "medium", or "thin"?

The Atomic US website lists the tongues as "Thick LV" and "Thin HV." I'm going to assume this is new and that within a day, Atomic implemented Tony's great suggestion.

 

[onenerdykid]

The Atomic US website lists the tongues as "Thick LV" and "Thin HV." I'm going to assume this is new and that within a day, Atomic implemented Tony's great suggestion.

You're welcome

The tongues will have to endure with their current names on the product, but we were able to implement a change on the product name and hopefully update the existing packaging with a new sticker. That last point will (hopefully) roll out over the next month or so in our warehouses.

Edit: for some reason, not all versions are showing the naming update... might be a website/SAP system over night update thing. I will check on this in the morning to see what the deal is.

 

[ScottB]

The Atomic US website lists the tongues as "Thick LV" and "Thin HV." I'm going to assume this is new and that within a day, Atomic implemented Tony's great suggestion.

The magic of the internet age.

I use this emoji due to Dion Sanders. He is the new coach of the University of Colorado's football team and is turning the program around from a doormat to a nationally ranked Division 1 team. He gets off the charts media coverage since he was a superstar football player. He recently climbed the mountain even higher as Saturday Night Live did a skit mocking his post game interviews. Here are a couple of URL's:




Maybe we can get Matt Manser a skit on SNL talking about ski boots and non-peated scotch.

 

[Jjmd]

Has anyone put a mimic professional Redster ti liner in a Head Raptor wcr 140s, and if so, how did it work? I certainly don’t expect it to be a very warm liner but any input would be great. I am currently in Intuition Pro Tongues, which I like but are getting worn. Second question; will the s/m version of the new dual strap work on 28.5 shell.

 

[Rudi Riet]

Second question; will the s/m version of the new dual strap work on 28.5 shell.

Probably not - you should go after the M/L if you can.

 

[AmyPJ]

I guess I should report back that I really, really like the dual strap. It does exactly what I was hoping it would, which is give a more consistent flex feel over a larger surface area of the tongue. They seem to be working just fine with the short cuff boots I have.

 

[onenerdykid]

Has anyone put a mimic professional Redster ti liner in a Head Raptor wcr 140s, and if so, how did it work? I certainly don’t expect it to be a very warm liner but any input would be great. I am currently in Intuition Pro Tongues, which I like but are getting worn. Second question; will the s/m version of the new dual strap work on 28.5 shell.

Liner works totally fine in a WCR (and every other similarly constructed boot), I know a few locals who have gone that route.

The cuff on a WCR is not low volume, so in a size 28.5 you are best off going with the M/L version and mounting in the L position.

 

[JCF]

I guess I should report back that I really, really like the dual strap. It does exactly what I was hoping it would, which is give a more consistent flex feel over a larger surface area of the tongue. They seem to be working just fine with the short cuff boots I have.

Been trying to find a pair of those for my Hawx - seem to be sold out

Is there any difference between those made for the Redsters and the Hawx ? They look exactly the same on the Atomic site.

 

[Wade]

Been trying to find a pair of those for my Hawx - seem to be sold out

Is there any difference between those made for the Redsters and the Hawx ? They look exactly the same on the Atomic site.

They're the same other than the buckle. The Hawx has a quick release and the Redster version has a traditional cam buckle similar to Booster straps.

I just bought the Redster version for my Hawx Ultras because i couldn't find the Hawx version. It fits perfectly and I'm used to Boosters so I'm very happy to have that style of buckle. I initially didn't realize when I was looking that the only difference was the buckle. Had I known, I would have bought the Redster version even if the Hawx version was available.

 

[ScottB]

Has anyone put a mimic professional Redster ti liner in a Head Raptor wcr 140s, and if so, how did it work? I certainly don’t expect it to be a very warm liner but any input would be great. I am currently in Intuition Pro Tongues, which I like but are getting worn. Second question; will the s/m version of the new dual strap work on 28.5 shell.

I ordered the s/m version of the dual strap by mistake and used it on a 29.5 redster club sport. I had to make new holes in the strap, but it worked. The dual elastic part is the same for both sizes. Given a choice, get the m/l size, but you can customize if needed.

 

[bricecrispy]

I now have 20 days on my Redster CS 130 Pros and I'm confident I'd like to soften the flex by having a bootfitter cut the clog along one of these pre-marked lines. I'm 6'3" 180lb advanced skier. On cold days, they just seem too stiff for my liking. My local bootfitter doesn't sound very experienced with this procedure. I might be able to track down someone within a 1.5-3 hr drive that has more experience. @onenerdykid Does Atomic have any official guidance (video would be optimal) on this procedure? The best I can find online is this video at the 2:19 mark:

I might even be keen to try it myself if I could find the right type of attachment for my power drill at home.

 

[KingGrump]

I might even be keen to try it myself if I could find the right type of attachment for my power drill at home.

A 1/4" shank carbide burr with a cutting diameter around 3/4" to 1" will do the job. It's mainly used to clean up and smooth out the cut to eliminate stress cracks.

It will be much slower with a portable drill. It's a good thing though. Less likely to mess things up. The finish will not be as smooth. You can touch up with some fine sand paper.

 

[onenerdykid]

I now have 20 days on my Redster CS 130 Pros and I'm confident I'd like to soften the flex by having a bootfitter cut the clog along one of these pre-marked lines. I'm 6'3" 180lb advanced skier. On cold days, they just seem too stiff for my liking. My local bootfitter doesn't sound very experienced with this procedure. I might be able to track down someone within a 1.5-3 hr drive that has more experience. @onenerdykid Does Atomic have any official guidance (video would be optimal) on this procedure? The best I can find online is this video at the 2:19 mark:

View attachment 219623

I might even be keen to try it myself if I could find the right type of attachment for my power drill at home.

It's not rocket surgery, but it is one of those things where you want to proceed in piecemeal steps. It's really difficult to add the plastic back once it's been ground off

I would suggest your local boot fitter give it a go first. If the shop messes it up, it's on them to replace the boot for you. If you mess it up at home, it's on you to replace it.

KingGrump outlined some good steps already, but I would add:
-Before you remove the cuff, mark your cuff alignment settings so you can easily reposition the cuff afterwards. Use a silver Sharpie and draw a small line from the indicator on the metal washer onto the plastic cuff. Realign the two lines when remounting.
-Don't cut the plastic with tin snips. This can produce sharp angles that can lead to cracks. Use a grinding/cutting bit for a Dremel/Foredom style tool and smoothen the finish as best you can, leaving no sharp edges.
-Grind down to the first line (on both sides of each shell), reassemble the boot, give it a try. It might be fine for you, it might not be enough. Don't know until you do it, so this is why you work in baby steps.
-Always apply some type of thread lock to the cuff alignment screws before you take the boots out skiing. These screws love to rattle loose. I prefer plumber's teflon tape.

 

[ScottB]

I think those were my Redster CS's in the photo above. I used the bit @KingGrump described above with a Dremel tool on my Redsters. That worked great. I did these boots below with tin snips and was not as good (hard to use and sharp edges left that required lots of sanding). Last pic is another bit I used that worked pretty good too, the Kutzall was the best and the dremel tool was easy to handle compared to a hand drill.

I used this bit on my Langes and it worked reasonably well. On my Redsters I bought the Kutzall and it was even better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037MFFQ2/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=d04f551a70a3f3ce8f378db11e6f5528&hsa_cr_id=1474559410601&qid=1703776185&sr=1-2-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_1_title&pd_rd_w=UjR9J&content-id=amzn1.sym.417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b%3Aamzn1.sym.417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b&pf_rd_p=417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b&pf_rd_r=MBZEWNFM6AHGQWE2T0RB&pd_rd_wg=QWTsw&pd_rd_r=b5ef8ae3-ce97-4416-b661-4e94390e5845&th=1

 

[cstitz]

Greetings all. I’ve added the Hawx Pro Dual Strap to my 24 Hawx Ultras, and I’m not 100% confident in my method. As I understand, the upper half goes on the liner and the lower on the cuff as I have it below.
My concern is that it seems that the strap naturally wants to rest lower on the cuff and I have to pull it or rotate it up toward my knee a bit to get the straps lined up as expected. This seems to inherently put more tension on the upper liner strap and less on the lower cuff strap.

Am I doing this correctly?

 

[onenerdykid]

Greetings all. I’ve added the Hawx Pro Dual Strap to my 24 Hawx Ultras, and I’m not 100% confident in my method. As I understand, the upper half goes on the liner and the lower on the cuff as I have it below.
My concern is that it seems that the strap naturally wants to rest lower on the cuff and I have to pull it or rotate it up toward my knee a bit to get the straps lined up as expected. This seems to inherently put more tension on the upper liner strap and less on the lower cuff strap.

Am I doing this correctly?

That's the general set up. How does it look & feel with your leg in the boot?

 

[cstitz]

That's the general set up. How does it look & feel with your leg in the boot?

First of all, thank you ONG for the response, and any assistance you can provide. While I don’t post, I lurk, and you always go well above and beyond here and on other forums.

Not as I’d expect I guess. In the pics below, I have all buckles tightened, and I have the dual strap positioned so the bottom strap is on the very top of the cuff, and the top strap is on the liner. And then cimched down until the elastic of the top strap is taught. You’ll see that there is still a lot of gap in the bottom elastic still. I can tighten the strap enough to stretch the top elastic to get the bottom elastic to sit flush, but there is not much tension at all in the bottom elastic. I can’t get the top to go any tighter.

Perhaps this is the way it is supposed to work, but I guess I thought that both elastic sections would flush up to the liner and the cuff at roughly the same time.

 

[onenerdykid]

First of all, thank you ONG for the response, and any assistance you can provide. While I don’t post, I lurk, and you always go well above and beyond here and on other forums.

Not as I’d expect I guess. In the pics below, I have all buckles tightened, and I have the dual strap positioned so the bottom strap is on the very top of the cuff, and the top strap is on the liner. And then cimched down until the elastic of the top strap is taught. You’ll see that there is still a lot of gap in the bottom elastic still. I can tighten the strap enough to stretch the top elastic to get the bottom elastic to sit flush, but there is not much tension at all in the bottom elastic. I can’t get the top to go any tighter.

Perhaps this is the way it is supposed to work, but I guess I thought that both elastic sections would flush up to the liner and the cuff at roughly the same time.

Can you show a pic of the rear mounting area. Don't zoom in too closely; I need to see how both screws mount to the back of the strap.

 

[cstitz]

Can you show a pic of the rear mounting area. Don't zoom in too closely; I need to see how both screws mount to the back of the strap.