I was looking into the feasibility of cutting down my Carbon 14s poles a bit so I decided to first see how difficult it would be to remove the grips. Well, after a short soak in hot water the grip came off, but it's really a two part assembly as seen below. I have a feeling that the inner part may be rather difficult to get off so I got cold feet about trying to remove it. Anyone have experience/advice on how to proceed?
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Removing LEKI Trigger Grips from Carbon Poles
- Thread starter DonC
- Start date
Never tried taking one apart.
What is the inner grip material?
What is the inner grip material?
Thread Starter
TS
Its a fairly rigid plastic and glued on.The worry is that if you damage it then there's no way to get the grip back on securely.
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Hmmmm.... More nuissance by Leiki. There's the boiling in hot water for quite awhile method. Then use a leather glove to try and pull it off.
Calling @Doug Briggs ...
Calling @Doug Briggs ...
I haven't done this. I'll see what solutions the other guys at the shop have for this.
Probably epoxied to the carbon fiber.
If that is the case the only way I can think of to get it off is with a metal lathe.
Hope you find I'm wrong about this.
If that is the case the only way I can think of to get it off is with a metal lathe.
Hope you find I'm wrong about this.
Thread Starter
TS
It very well may be epoxied to the cf. the glue holding the two parts of the grip together was a standard tacky glue.
I wanted to start by taking off about 1.5 inches. I'm sure that what your suggesting is possible but I'm not going to go that far.
Just wack off the inch and a half then wrap the bottom part with a piece of duct tape to the right diameter and glue the grip thingie back together.
That's so Hillbilly, you didn't hear it from me....
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Last edited:
As it happens, 2 weeks ago I was helping a mate up who had fallen while we were standing around on the flats (don't ask!) and I pulled him up with his pole (same LEKI )
Didn't the grip pull right off and send him back down .There wasn't any extra rubber at all in there. So I think it should come off fairly easily, unless someone has already fixed it on with hairspray or something
Didn't the grip pull right off and send him back down .There wasn't any extra rubber at all in there. So I think it should come off fairly easily, unless someone has already fixed it on with hairspray or something
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Yes, the one that is glued on.I I believe that the diameter of the Carbon 14s pole is 14mm/pi
The McMaster nylon tubes above have a 9/16=14mm id and a 5/8 od = 16mm od. Probably is perfect. Which means you could grind the tube off if necessary.
Thread Starter
TS
Good to know that's an option. So 14mm is of course the diameter not the circumference. If I had thought for a second I would have realized that.... consequence of growing up in the USA I guess.
Not sure I really have the time and energy to go that far though.
Most grips are like that, but this particular one is unfortunately a bit over-engineered as they say.
This.Just wack off the inch and a half then wrap the bottom part with a piece of duct tape to the right diameter and glue the grip thingie back together.
That's so Hillbilly, you didn't hear it from me....
Similar to using build up tape on golf clubs, tennis racquets, etc.
Not rocket science and that material looks to be used primarily to build up the diameter to make for better install of the trigger.
No need to over think, it’s a grip and isn’t subjected to high forces (e.g. why a number of manufacturers only have their grips installed using friction (no tape or glue).
I spoke to my cohorts in the shop. One recommended never attempting to shorten CF poles. They aren't designed for it. The other said that a dremel cut off disc was the best way to cut the CF, DO NOT use the traditional pipe cutting tool you'd use on an AL pole.
As far as the part that got left on the shaft from the grip, since CF is smaller diameter than AL they use the same grips (your grip doesn't change based on shaft diameter, right?) they use a sleeve to make up the difference in grip inner diameter. Your heating process released the grip from the insert but not the insert from the grip.
I'm curious, what is the consistency of the material on the shaft? We didn't have an LEKI CF poles left in stock (big spring sale at the shop!) so I couldn't poke around with one to check it out.
As far as the part that got left on the shaft from the grip, since CF is smaller diameter than AL they use the same grips (your grip doesn't change based on shaft diameter, right?) they use a sleeve to make up the difference in grip inner diameter. Your heating process released the grip from the insert but not the insert from the grip.
I'm curious, what is the consistency of the material on the shaft? We didn't have an LEKI CF poles left in stock (big spring sale at the shop!) so I couldn't poke around with one to check it out.
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When you say dremel cut off wheel you're talking about the abrasive one, right?
Likely a fine, like 32tpi, hacksaw blade would work, but seems abrasive is recommended. With some cooling so the bonding resins don't get too hot.
-------------See this link for info-----------
"Choose the right blade for the job:
This is the most important part. When cutting composites, it is ideal to use a diamond coated abrasive cut-off blade rather than a toothed blade. Teeth can catch the fibers and tear the material resulting in splintering or delamination.Thicker tubes may generate enough heat to re-activate the epoxy causing the blade to “gum-up”.To prevent “gumming”, cool the cutting surface/blade. Using a segmented blade will help reduce heat. Another option is to actively cool by using a wet saw."
-----------------------------------------
https://www.clearwatercomposites.com/resources/how-to-guides/cut-carbon-fiber-tubes/
Likely a fine, like 32tpi, hacksaw blade would work, but seems abrasive is recommended. With some cooling so the bonding resins don't get too hot.
-------------See this link for info-----------
"Choose the right blade for the job:
This is the most important part. When cutting composites, it is ideal to use a diamond coated abrasive cut-off blade rather than a toothed blade. Teeth can catch the fibers and tear the material resulting in splintering or delamination.Thicker tubes may generate enough heat to re-activate the epoxy causing the blade to “gum-up”.To prevent “gumming”, cool the cutting surface/blade. Using a segmented blade will help reduce heat. Another option is to actively cool by using a wet saw."
-----------------------------------------
https://www.clearwatercomposites.com/resources/how-to-guides/cut-carbon-fiber-tubes/
I just did this a couple months ago. Worked fine. You just have to be more patient with the boiling and the inner sleeve will come off too, eventually.
People cut down carbon mtb bars all the time. No biggie. Wrap tightly with masking tape over the cut area. Then cut with fine sharp hacksaw. Sand smooth. Reverse to reassemble. Use low temp hot glue gun.
Edit: It did take a bit of force to get the grips and inserts all the way back on. Put pole tip on scrap 2x4 and pound grip gently with mallet while glue is still hot.
People cut down carbon mtb bars all the time. No biggie. Wrap tightly with masking tape over the cut area. Then cut with fine sharp hacksaw. Sand smooth. Reverse to reassemble. Use low temp hot glue gun.
Edit: It did take a bit of force to get the grips and inserts all the way back on. Put pole tip on scrap 2x4 and pound grip gently with mallet while glue is still hot.
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I like the hot glue idea. That glue removes with benzine also- rubber cement thinner. We used to do that for jigs all the time.
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