Question: Do all new skis need to be sidewall planed?

[1chris5]

I know there are no stupid questons just stupid people but I am not sure about this. I just bought new skis online and I am formulating a plan to get the initial set-up correct. I bought 2016 Dynastar Glory 84 (needs 2 degree side edge) and Head Monster 83 (needs 3 degree). The steps so far are 1. check base flatness 2. plane sidewall. Do I need to plane the sidewalls of these skis? Is sidewall planing more for race skis or well-filed edges. I could just start filing and if there is plastic in the file, then I need to plane but that would not be ideal. would rather know as I am compiling a list of tools I will need to accomplish these tasks. I don't have a sidewall planer but know which one I will get http://www.racewax.com/toko-world-cup-file-medium-cut-8-inch/.

KIMG0392

• 1chris5
• Aug 21, 2017

2016 Head Monster 83 Side Edge

KIMG0393

• 1chris5
• Aug 21, 2017

2016 Dynastar Glory 84 Side Edge

Cheers

 

[Dwight]

I can't tell by looking, but not all skis need it. At home I use a sharp chisel to areas the need to be side planned. Though a dedicated tool would be easier and faster.

 

[1chris5]

I can't tell by looking, but not all skis need it. At home I use a sharp chisel to areas the need to be side planned. Though a dedicated tool would be easier and faster.

That's the thing, by eying the skis, it doesn't look like it. Thanks for your response. Cheers

 

[Jersey Skier]

I can't tell from the pictures, but in general I always find it's easier to get the edge if I remove some edge material first. I use a 7 degree guide with a small panzar file. Cheap alternative to a sidewall planar.

If you run a stone down the existing edge with the proper angle guide you will know in a minute whether any material needs to be removed. Your stone will get filled with edge material rather than polish the edge if there is too much material there,

 

[KingGrump]

A 14 tpi medium file is usually too fine for cutting back the ski side wall. It'll just clog in no time at all.

I like to use a 100 mm panzar file in a 6 or 7 degree guide. If I am in a hurry, I will free hand the file and just eye ball it.

A dedicated side wall cutter with a convex cutter is really nice to do the final fine concave cut up against the top of the steel edge. Keeps the side edge files and stones clean.
100 mm Panzer File

Sidewall cutter

 

[dlague]

If you use an edge sharpening tool and use the desired angle it will plane the edge for you if necesssary. The question is - why are you doing the edge to race specifications or so aggressive? They may be very grabby at those angles, which is fine if that is what you want.

 

[KingGrump]

If you use an edge sharpening tool and use the desired angle it will plane the edge for you if necesssary. The question is - why are you doing the edge to race specifications or so aggressive? They may be very grabby at those angles, which is fine if that is what you want.

You talking to me?

 

[Read Blinn]

The question is - why are you doing the edge to race specifications or so aggressive? They may be very grabby at those angles, which is fine if that is what you want.

Two or three degrees side edge is pretty standard for the east — all mine are three. "Grabby" is more a base bevel thing — the flatter the base bevel, the quicker the ski hooks up. I had my SLs tuned to a radial .7/.5 degree base, and I love that quicker hookup. I might consider going straight .5 degree.

 

[dlague]

I guess it depends on the base bevel along with the side angle.

 

[1chris5]

If you use an edge sharpening tool and use the desired angle it will plane the edge for you if necesssary. The question is - why are you doing the edge to race specifications or so aggressive? They may be very grabby at those angles, which is fine if that is what you want.

We ski at Blue Mtn baby. When edges bite, we bite back!

 

[KingGrump]

Hook up (grabby) is mostly dependent upon the base bevel.
The side edge angle and torsional rigidity of the ski will affect the grip (hold). Especially on "firm" snow.

I usually do Dec in SVT and the rest of the season somewhere west of the continental divide.
All my skis are tuned to 1/3 with the exception of my FIS SL. The SL is 0.5/3. Doesn't matter where I am skiing.
It works for me.

 

[Philpug]

If the sidewall gets in the way of the file so you cannot put a proper bevel on the edge, you will need to plane the sidewall.

 

[Philpug]

Paging @smoothrides (if you are not on summer hiatus) to the white courtesy phone.

 

[ScotsSkier]

I can't tell from the pictures, but in general I always find it's easier to get the edge if I remove some edge material first. I use a 7 degree guide with a small panzar file. Cheap alternative to a sidewall planar.

If you run a stone down the existing edge with the proper angle guide you will know in a minute whether any material needs to be removed. Your stone will get filled with edge material rather than polish the edge if there is too much material there,

THIS! I use the 7degree guide with a panzer for all my race skis. I have used a variety of sidewall planers and TBH, been pretty underwhelmed with most of them so keep going back to the 7 degree tool. Simple and it works.

And personally I would not bother with a 2 degree edge even in the West. All my skis are 3 degrees, including powder skis. only exception is slaloms at 4 degrees...

 

[Read Blinn]

Totally.

 

[mdf]

If the sidewall gets in the way of the file so you cannot put a proper bevel on the edge, you will need to plane the sidewall.

I find it really easy to tell with a file, but less obvious with a stone. Look for sidewall color in the residue on the stone.

I used to rely on a panzer but got a real sidewall cutter last year. Much nicer!


To answer the original question -- maybe not all, but an overwhelming majority need it.

But it doesn't need to be done often...if you buy used skis you might never need to do it.

 

[razie]

Sooner or later, you'll need to plane them - when you start to see white plastic on the file/diamond stones or you can't get it as sharp anymore, it's time to shave the sidewall - either completely off, or just enough to be able to sharpen the edges again.

The panzer file with a 6-7 degree bevel will work well. but if you are to buy a separate guide and file, you might as well just buy the cheap planer - I have the cheaper Swix planer and it works fine.

There is one more reason to do this: it allows the edges to dig in and grab a little better in hardpack - most good race ski prep shops will strip the entire sidewall completely. I do the same, with all skis, when new - again, if you only have 2 pairs, maybe ask the shop, it may be just 10$ each or something.

There's another story behind it: some say that the edges will last less if the sidewall is stripped completely off... I don't know what to say. I don't think that plastic offers enough support to worry about it.

cheers

 

[Sibhusky]

FWIW, I've moved to a 3° side edge for Rockies snow. Still at 1° for the base, but I think starting at .7° could be okay as the base gets over bevelled eventually and that would allow that process if you could stand it to go to 1° after getting used to the .7°. One of these days I'll have to measure the actual current base bevel on my skis, I'm sure it's beyond 1° by now.

 

[Swiss Toni]

Cutting back sidewalls is a bit of a black art and everybody seems to have their own way of doing it. A trim router does a really nice job.


https://norda-sport.at/epages/6c9bc...9bcacd-3627-409e-a028-b93347f8ecd8/Categories

 

[1chris5]

Awesome. Thanks for the great knowledge and recommendations! I'm not going to buy the planer just yet. I just bought a medium cut and fine cut file and some other items. Each of the last couple years I've been buying moonflex diamond stones etc. and building my shop slowly. If I notice plastic on the file, I'll hack a planer or just buy one in Oct. or Nov. Cheers