@asolo, I went back and looked at the videos of your skiing that you posted in your other thread. You have a lot of good stuff going on in your skiing, but there are some things that you can work on that will help not only in your mogul skiing, but also in your groomer skiing.
As was pointed out in the other thread, your primary way of creating edge is to move your upper body inside the turn and push the skis away from you until they create enough edge to deflect you across the hill. This technique can work in a lot of places, but it isn't a great technique in moguls. Why? As
@Skisailor indicated above, a more effective technique is to use less edge. This allows you to steer the ski with rotary movements from the lower body, allowing the ski to drift and create drag to control your speed. The technique you use results in too much edge, and that shoots you across the hill with little speed or direction control.
If you go back to the original video you posted, you are showing quite a bit of dynamic range in your flexion and extension, but the timing is not quite right. You rise as you come into edge change rather than shorten. You should be at your shortest at edge change.
In any case, the progression I gave you for your groomer skiing in
#37 of that thread will help to develop better movement patterns. You are going to need a different blend for mogul skiing, however.
The first task is to get you over the ski but able to steer it with rotary movements of the upper legs. What's the drill? Pivot slips! Find a groomed slope with a good bit of pitch. With your skis across the fall line, get into a countered position so that you are rotationally aligned. The upper ski should be ahead of the lower ski and the angle of the tip should be the same as the angle of your upper/lower ankle, knee, hip, and shoulders. Almost all of the weight should be on the downhill ski. Release the downhill ski by rolling the ankle and tipping, slightly, the knees down the hill. Slip straight down the fall line -- if you are moving obliquely to the fall line toward the tip of the skis, you are too far forward on the ski, and if you are moving obliquely to the fall line toward the tails, you are too far back. Get over the center of the ski and you will slip straight down the fall line. Now steer the tips down the hill and as the ski is moving straight along its length down the fall line steer the tails down the fall line. This is a drill that emphasizes the rotation of the legs, but it also requires you to move the body to stay over the center of the ski. As the rotation occurs, don't allow the skis to deviate from their path straight down the fall line. Here's a video:
Once you really own the pivot slips, try taking it into braquage turns. These will be short turns, but the objective is to allow the ski to slip all the way through the turns. There's very little edge, but what we are really trying to do is two things: keep the upper body moving with the skis (stay on top of them), and using the same leg rotation to turn the skis. It looks a lot like pivot slips, but with more forward movement. Something like this:
Next, we need to work on the timing of your flexion and extension movements. Think about trying to get as short as you can at the time of edge change. So, as you are performing some of those braquage turns, see how short you can get as you change the edges. Extend, still allowing the ski to slip until you are as tall as you can get when the skis are directly down the fall line and shorten all the way through to edge change. This flexion and extension is really important to bump skiing, although it will be a bit different, as we will get to in a bit.
The real key, IMHO, to skiing the bumps is flexion and extension, with the ability to change the edges in a very flexed position. BTW, this is also a key to steep skiing. And slalom. And owning a dynamic short turn. But I'm getting off track.
Practice flexion and extension. Let the hips come behind the heel piece, but don't allow the shin to come off of the tongue of the boot (contact, not crush). The more range you have, and the lower you can change edges, the better you will ultimately be in skiing bumps and steeps.
Next, find a moderate bump run. Take a shallow angle across the field. Try to keep your upper body at the same height and allow the feet to come up and away from you to do so. Start at a slow speed. Allow the speed to build as you are successful in absorbing and flexing to keep your body traveling at the same height. See if you can let the bump push the feet up as opposed to pulling them up. As you crest the bump, stall the feet a bit by pulling them back so that the tips of the skis travel down the backside of the bump.
From here, it's about learning line. Here's three videos I like about the topic:
Good luck!
Mike
