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Kore 105 as a touring ski?

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Alexzn

Alexzn

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yes, I have a pair of Kore 117s which I took everywhere from Alaska to Chamonix, so I am familiar with the virtues of the Kore series :) .
 

DanoT

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The Kore 99 has a more hourglass shape than the 105 and as such it might work better in more varying snow types.
 

4ster

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I just picked up a set of Fischer Tour Classic aka Dynafit ST 2.0 bindings & am trying to decide what to mount them on. The Kore series is one I’ve been interested in.
My first set of tech bindings, anyone have experience with these?
 

jmeb

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The Kore 99 has a more hourglass shape than the 105 and as such it might work better in more varying snow types.

This is counter to the experience of most people I know who ski a lot of backcountry. The massive variety of snow conditions -- many rarely seen in the resort -- makes overly shaped skis (i.e. tight turn radius) grabby and less predictable in crap conditions. Sidecut becomes a twitchy liability rather than something fun.

It's why you see so many positive reviews of skis like the Katana (24mm radius), 4frnt raven (29m radius) and Down Lowdown series (41m radius) for backcountry skiing.
 

jmeb

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I just picked up a set of Fischer Tour Classic aka Dynafit ST 2.0 bindings & am trying to decide what to mount them on. The Kore series is one I’ve been interested in.
My first set of tech bindings, anyone have experience with these?

They are one of the most common tech bindings you'll see. Nothing really remarkable -- good or bad. Dead reliable, proven tech. The 2.0 heel skis better than the 1.0 version as it is a gapless design which makes for better power transfer.

It also had the rotation toe. Dynafit copy implies that it is lateral release at the toe -- it's not. It's like the pivot heel -- not lateral release but aids lateral release of the opposite end of the binding and allows for less pre-release.
 

markojp

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This is counter to the experience of most people I know who ski a lot of backcountry. The massive variety of snow conditions -- many rarely seen in the resort -- makes overly shaped skis (i.e. tight turn radius) grabby and less predictable in crap conditions. Sidecut becomes a twitchy liability rather than something fun.

It's why you see so many positive reviews of skis like the Katana (24mm radius), 4frnt raven (29m radius) and Down Lowdown series (41m radius) for backcountry skiing.

The Kore 99 doesn't have an hourglass shape. It has much less tip taper than the 105, so the snow contact surface is longer. It's 19.5r in a 189. I've owned both the 105 and the 99. If one likes 'surfy' and a more 5 point ski design, the 105 might be better. If one likes a tip with a more traditional feel, then the 99 is the choice.
Having skied the katana v werks , I don't find the Kore 99 any 'turnier' due to its relative stiffness, thought the Mantra and Katana V werks skis would be nice to tour on as well. Oddly enough, I find the 189 Kore 99 tracks better and more stable at speed than the 105, but that's probably just a personal thing with how the front of these two skis engage.
 
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4ster

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They are one of the most common tech bindings you'll see. Nothing really remarkable -- good or bad. Dead reliable, proven tech. The 2.0 heel skis better than the 1.0 version as it is a gapless design which makes for better power transfer.

It also had the rotation toe. Dynafit copy implies that it is lateral release at the toe -- it's not. It's like the pivot heel -- not lateral release but aids lateral release of the opposite end of the binding and allows for less pre-release.
Thanks for the reply.
 
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Alexzn

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The Kore 99 is 102 underfoot in a 189.... fwiw.
Yes, yes, it is past the magic number, but the 105 is 107 underfoot in 189. :cool:

I have spent a ton of time on 100 mm underfoot skis, and I think the ones that work for me at the resort have less rocker at the tip and small or very neutral tip taper, so a more traditional feel ski. But I ski tons of groomers, bumps and beat-up snow at the resort. In loose variable snow at lower speeds I would like to have a bit more taper for a more gentle floatier feel. Kores are pretty stiff, so it is not a proverbial 5-point noodle. I think I will be just fine with the 105. I don't think many people look for a positive tip engagement in the backcountry.
 

AlpedHuez

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I have two skis in my quiver set up for 50/50 use ... a Rustler 10 (102) with a Duke PT, and a Black Crows Corvus Freebird (109) with an S/Lab Shift. The latter is perfect for a Chamonix trip. The former I may just ski more in resort and resort sidecountry than as a dedicated backcountry ski that is super playful and versatile.
 

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Yes, yes, it is past the magic number, but the 105 is 107 underfoot in 189. :cool:

I have spent a ton of time on 100 mm underfoot skis, and I think the ones that work for me at the resort have less rocker at the tip and small or very neutral tip taper, so a more traditional feel ski. But I ski tons of groomers, bumps and beat-up snow at the resort. In loose variable snow at lower speeds I would like to have a bit more taper for a more gentle floatier feel. Kores are pretty stiff, so it is not a proverbial 5-point noodle. I think I will be just fine with the 105. I don't think many people look for a positive tip engagement in the backcountry.
I picked up a pair of last season's Kore 105 in 189 length and yes they do measure 107.

I skied a pair of demos in everything from powder to crud to bumps and trees, even groomer zooming and really found them to be a great all around ski. I may set up mine with some AT bindings. Haven't decided yet. Skiing in the east I like a narrower platform and have some G3s that are 93mm Using them at JH I found them to be a bit short and skinny and ended up renting some Black Diamonds that were around 107.

I think the Kore 105 will be a great choice for Tahoe BC.
 

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Yes, yes, it is past the magic number, but the 105 is 107 underfoot in 189. :cool:

And by going with the wider, more surfy shape, you keep the quiver open for a narrow spring touring ski.
It sounds like you are not opposed to a quiver, and having acces to some great spring skiing, a narrower, less tapered firm snow ski would make a nice complement to a wider, surfier ski like the Kore 105.
Also, if you travel, and end up going to some deep snow paradise, at your weight, the width and shape of the “105” will be better (many BC lodges recommend 110mm and up).
It sounds like the Kore 99 could be a great versatile ski for bigger skiers, but even better than versatile is a good spread in a small quiver.
 

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Well, I value lateral release at the toe a lot. I also value elasticity (I am pretty picky about my Alpine bindings and try to ski only STH or Pivots), but of course I realize BC is a different game. Curious about durability and functional tradeoffs of Tectons. What I like about Shift (in theory!), is that when you ski downhill, your boot is clamped in fully alpine style, no pins. But I get and seriously value the weight argument.
Well I can’t speak about durability*. The Tectons have a lot of plastic, but so do the Shifts.
As far as being clamped, the Tecton (and Kingpin) clamp the heel alpine style. It's the heel pins that have a less firm connection to the boot than alpine. Toe pins, if anything, have a more direct, rigid connection. So from a skiing power transition standpoint they should be just as good. They don’t have as much lateral elastic as a good Alpine toe(Shift), but it’s is there.
In the Blister review, Brian Lindahl actually skied them on one foot, with an alpine binding on the other foot, and found no noticeable difference.

Lee Lau also wrote a good comparo article on TGR:

And indeed, ~180g weight difference isn’t going to feel noticeably different, but it will help over the course of a day, and really with no loss in performance. In fact, I would say, the easier operation is an even bigger benefit than the 180g weight saved.

And again, if you are not planning on 50/50 use, I would seriously consider something lighter than a Tecton.

Outdoorgearlab puts it this way:
The Tecton is for truly hard-charging backcountry skiers. Buyer beware, though, as the Tecton is a specialized piece of equipment. Only those skiing like they should be in a TGR film will really take advantage of the weighty and spendy attributes of this niche product. You've gotta weigh more than 170, drop cliffs, and have a long alpine racing background to fully and truly realize the performance gains.”

For skiing performce, ATK(/Hagan/Majesty) R12 with freeride spacer has great power transfer.
Vipec Evo does too: its heel doesn’t rotate, and therefor is more direct when pushing sideways, and your heel rests on the brake pad. Also still offers the safety of lateral toe release, and some lateral elasticity. From your comments, this would be the top of my list for you.

And if this ski is to be mostly used in soft snow, would the slight reduction in downhill feel, of a lightweight binding really be a big problem?

*except for the breaking brake retainer, which is not day ending, and can be avoided with some care.
 
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Ken_R

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I just picked up a set of Fischer Tour Classic aka Dynafit ST 2.0 bindings & am trying to decide what to mount them on. The Kore series is one I’ve been interested in.
My first set of tech bindings, anyone have experience with these?

I have the Dynafit FT 2.0's which are identical save for firmer springs. I have used them for the past 3 years and they have been VERY reliable and just easy to use. The only thing is clicking in the toe piece is tricky at first but you get used to it. It is a bit easier with boots that have the dynafit "master step" fitting in the toe.
 

Slim

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I have the Dynafit FT 2.0's which are identical save for firmer springs. I have used them for the past 3 years and they have been VERY reliable and just easy to use. The only thing is clicking in the toe piece is tricky at first but you get used to it. It is a bit easier with boots that have the dynafit "master step" fitting in the toe.

Does the new 10 year warranty on Dynifit Bindings apply to the Fischer (or Look) branded versions?
 

Ken_R

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Does the new 10 year warranty on Dynifit Bindings apply to the Fischer (or Look) branded versions?

I dont think so but I would check if they were purchased new last year.
 
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Alexzn

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Thanks for the replies and all the advice, it is very much appreciated. I guess I am not looking for a BC quiver, as I have too many resort skis already:).

Here is my naive argument for something like Kore 105 with Shifts: I skied enough Tahoe snow in all conditions to know that a 105 ski with the Kore stiffness and shape will do very well on any snow, even on the morning firm (it won't be fun, but it will hold). The main argument for Shifts is not necessarily performance, but the extra margin of safety from having a full-DIN release on toe and heel, even if I am going to be skiing at at most 70% of resort speeds. Most of my consequential falls were not when I was pushing myself, but rather when I was not paying attention and/or doing something stupid (in retrospect). An extra 200-300g may be worth it, especially as I am not planning on doing long punishing tours a-la Cody Townsend. If I get into that stuff, I would look into an MTN and much lighter skis.

An added benefit will be having a "travel" ski for a place like Chamonix (I brought two resort skis with me and it was fun, but I was still very disappointed to realize that to get full Cham experience you actually need AT capability; and lugging a double ski bag around was not fun either). But I think I will most likely still be traveling with my alpine setup because I would want to bring my alpine boots (chamonix is really an exception). And I would much prefer skiing real powder on my Kore 117s, although let's be real, Kore 105 will not be that far behind.


I read that for a 107 ski you actually need to get 100 brakes for the Shift, any comments on that? My limited BC experience tells me that it is not good to have a brake that sticks out too much, otherwise you end up catching them as you skin up.
 
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jmeb

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I read that for a 107 ski you actually need to get 100 brakes for the Shift, any comments on that? My limited BC experience tells me that it is not good to have a brake that sticks out too much, otherwise you end up catching them as you skin up.

I'd go 100 -- those brakes measure quite wide.

For a European travel ski 10X + shifts/tectons/duke PT makes perfect sense.
 

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