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Average Joe

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I'm going to try putting 1 screw back in on my next trip and see how that goes.
I ski a Lange 130 it's a fantastic shell and liner combo.
As others have said, put the screw(s) back in. Despite what the Lange manual says, I wouldn't want my cuff floating - better to have the bootfitter cut away plastic material in the "V" at the top of the clog if you want more range.
Sounds like you are physically fit with good range in the ankle. Have you tried Booster straps? Their elastic helps soften the flex.
Your ramp angle (internal) and delta angle (external) have a significant effect on balance. Often, adding internal shims to increase your ramp will help bring more weight over the ball of foot. That can get you "forward".
Boot work is best done with a good shop close by. Now you have a good excuse to book another trip to JH!
 

KingGrump

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I have much better than average dorsi flexion. I've been doing Crossfit for 9 years and Olympic lifting training for 2-3; which requires good dorsi flexion.

Sounds like you are in pretty good shape. If your skiing technique is correct, you should have no issue driving a 130 boot.
The most prominent issue that crops up with too stiff boots is kick back from uneven snow/terrain. Think low profile tires.

As others have suggested, try flexing the boots indoor and see if you can go through the entire range of movements (too stiff?) or if it feels off balance fore and aft. Being off balance fore and aft will fry your legs real quick.

As Mark said, put that bolt back in.

Here is a video on how to change the flex and reduce the interference between cuffs on a ski boot.
 

dbostedo

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You NEED to. How much is your deductible?

So just to clarify, I also have Lange's and have read about removing the screws. Are you saying they are actually giving dangerous advice? Or is it possible the "clips" meant to fill the holes fix the issue?

Here's what they publish :

METHOD 1: REMOVING REAR-CUFF SCREWS AND REPLACE WITH SUPPLIED CLIPS
- To reduce flex by 6%, remove the top rear-cuff screw of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clip (supplied with boots) in its place. Push the clip in and tap with a hammer.
- To reduce flex by12%, remove the bottom rear-cuff screw of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clips (supplied with boots) in their place. Push the clips in and tap with a hammer.
- To reduce flex by 20%, remove both the rear-cuff screws of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clips (supplied with boots) in their place. Push the clips in and tap with a hammer.
 

markojp

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There are variables I don't know. What were the bindings set at?... I didn't ask. The best way to soften a boot imho is to keep at least one of the two screws in and cut plastic in the boot. Yes, a friend folded his boot with both pins removed. He's about 6'2", 195, RS 130. He has a longer lever arm than the OP, but also a longer BSL (316). I'm not going to go out on a legal/factual limb without loads of research, but only state that imho, the boot will ski better and be safer with at least one of the two pins in the spine. If it needs to be softed further, cut the plastic. If other fitters feel differently, I'd love to hear other opinions. I'm happy to be wrong.
 

Average Joe

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So just to clarify, I also have Lange's and have read about removing the screws. Are you saying they are actually giving dangerous advice? Or is it possible the "clips" meant to fill the holes fix the issue?

Here's what they publish :

METHOD 1: REMOVING REAR-CUFF SCREWS AND REPLACE WITH SUPPLIED CLIPS
- To reduce flex by 6%, remove the top rear-cuff screw of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clip (supplied with boots) in its place. Push the clip in and tap with a hammer.
- To reduce flex by12%, remove the bottom rear-cuff screw of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clips (supplied with boots) in their place. Push the clips in and tap with a hammer.
- To reduce flex by 20%, remove both the rear-cuff screws of each boot with a 3mm key and insert clips (supplied with boots) in their place. Push the clips in and tap with a hammer.
The "clips" are plastic plugs that keep the water out of the holes if you remove a screw. They serve no other purpose AFAIK.
I'm in agreement that softening by removing the top screw is viable, but disagree with removing both. Watch the linked video in King Grumps post above to see the proper way of softening a boot.
 
Last edited:

Near Nyquist

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There are variables I don't know. What were the bindings set at?... I didn't ask. The best way to soften a boot imho is to keep at least one of the two screws in and cut plastic in the boot. Yes, a friend folded his boot with both pins removed. He's about 6'2", 195, RS 130. He has a longer lever arm than the OP, but also a longer BSL (316). I'm not going to go out on a legal/factual limb without loads of research, but only state that imho, the boot will ski better and be safer with at least one of the two pins in the spine. If it needs to be softed further, cut the plastic. If other fitters feel differently, I'd love to hear other opinions. I'm happy to be wrong.

Winner winner chicken dinner

You are right !!!

Leave a pin in for da win, overlap boots flex from the spine !!

It’s quick n easy on a Lange RX 130 to cut the saddle

Hell they even have marks to show you where to cut em

Same goes for head raptors
 

RuleMiHa

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There are variables I don't know. What were the bindings set at?... I didn't ask. The best way to soften a boot imho is to keep at least one of the two screws in and cut plastic in the boot. Yes, a friend folded his boot with both pins removed. He's about 6'2", 195, RS 130. He has a longer lever arm than the OP, but also a longer BSL (316). I'm not going to go out on a legal/factual limb without loads of research, but only state that imho, the boot will ski better and be safer with at least one of the two pins in the spine. If it needs to be softed further, cut the plastic. If other fitters feel differently, I'd love to hear other opinions. I'm happy to be wrong.
I've heard this (don't take out all screws, is dangerous) from at least three other independent decent regional bootfitters.
 

Wilhelmson

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What everyone else said. But if I skied once or twice year and skied hard all day in new boots there would be no way to isolate the problem.
 

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