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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Zermatt and Chamonix adventure

Eleeski

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This traveling to ski is difficult. Our duffels made the weight cut at the airport but still hauling them from the car to the counter was a challenge. They have to be soft to fit in the tiny euro car we have reserved so no wheels. Hopefully we guessed right on the weather and associated clothing choices. Taking boots but not skis - looking forward to demoing some of the recommendations from here. Lots of prep work to ski - and Liz had already done most of the planning.

I'm so spoiled at Squaw. Just load the wagon to walk across the parking lot. I feel sorry for those who have to travel for real to ski.

At the airport on the way out. I'm not sure of Internet in Europe (they do have it?) - I will update as I can. @Tricia , enjoy the popcorn!

Eric
 

James

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Lol. Yes, they have internet in Europe. Wifi too. If you're using your phone there check your plan for international calling and data rates. Even over there you can change it online.

If not and you have an unlocked phone or off contract, you can buy a sim card at news stands or the poste office in Switzerland. Even on contract may be able to switch. La poste -poste office some, all? don't take credit cards. You'll need a passport to buy a sim card.

I think Swisscom may be the best for Switz and transfer to France. My Lebara card didn't work in Chamonix. I switched back to Sprint.

Either way, turn off lots of cellular data hogs. Photos and other apps. Data is quite expensive it seems on cell there.

http://www.lebara.ch/en_CH/index.html?

https://www.swisscom.ch/en/residential/mobile/subscription-tariffs/natel-easy-smart.html
 
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Tricia

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This traveling to ski is difficult. Our duffels made the weight cut at the airport but still hauling them from the car to the counter was a challenge. They have to be soft to fit in the tiny euro car we have reserved so no wheels. Hopefully we guessed right on the weather and associated clothing choices. Taking boots but not skis - looking forward to demoing some of the recommendations from here. Lots of prep work to ski - and Liz had already done most of the planning.

I'm so spoiled at Squaw. Just load the wagon to walk across the parking lot. I feel sorry for those who have to travel for real to ski.

At the airport on the way out. I'm not sure of Internet in Europe (they do have it?) - I will update as I can. @Tricia , enjoy the popcorn!

Eric
:popcorn:
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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How do people in Europe get anything done? It's daylight during the time when a normal Californian should be sleeping. The roads are too small for a real car. Fortunately, the micro car we rented was so small that it fit nicely in the micro roads. And since I had the soft overstuffed duffle in my lap, I couldn't see anything (or anything scary) and if there was a crash I would have been totally padded. At least the road fee was paid in some funny colored money.

We overnighted at Heathrow (English pubs give tiny 25ml shots - a single is not enough and a double costs twice). They drive on the wrong side of the road too. I passed out early and then stayed up all night. Made the flight to Geneva - should have bought the duty free booze there as Switzerland is not in the EU so I could buy there).

Geneva was beautiful as was the drive to Zermatt (what I could see out from under the duffels). They made us park way out of town and take a fun train into town and a funky golf cart taxi to the condo (with hallway lights that timed off too quickly and floors that started at zero so our key didn't work in #10 - the floor below #10 we eventually figured out from our new non English speaking friend). I am a bit concerned as the skiers coming off the mountain were all on race skis. Hmmm, it might be firm tomorrow - looking forward to tomorrow's adventures.

I'm appreciating my Squaw situation even more! But enjoying the trip.

How did they copy Disneyland so well? The mountain on the top looks just like Disney's Matterhorn.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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What an incredible mountain! The place is HUGE! The views are unreal. From everywhere. And you get a lot of different viewpoints. I was a little worried starting from downtown Zermatt as I didn't see a gondola or lift. But there was a elevator/train in a tunnel going up the mountain to Sunnegga at an ear popping rate. No views yet and my wife was slightly claustrophobic. But we broke out high up on the side of a mountain. Had to take another lift up from there. Actually it was a gondola to Blauherd then a tram to Rothorn. Finally got our skis on.

Regarding skis, sometimes the best shops are those that won't rent to you. I went to the Yosemite rental shop to look for the local indie skis. They had a great selection of powder skis and would have rented to me but there was no powder. They recommended one of the ski rental mills instead. So off toFlex rent where we had a discount coupon to get some Head SL skis. Lisa got some Race Tigers (how boring she has those at home). Perfect for the ice we were encountering.

Taking the narrative back to the hill, we clipped into our boring skis. Off for a quick trip to the tram to Hotalli. That little run was longer than Mountain run! All groomed though. Quite icy. Sketchy off the groomer. I suck at groomers. And these Heads were not super grippy in the ice. Oh well, we were just exploring.

The tram to Hotalli was way up in elevation. 3286m which is over 10,000 feet. I watched the movie Everest on the flight over - we were very near the death zone. I was so dehydrated and woozy that I drank foriegn tap water out of my son's Nalgene bottle. I hope I survive. Dropping down to Riffleberg got us oxegenated again. There was a manufactured bump course that was really firm and had really weird shape. Struggling on the groomers and struggling in the bumps. Zrematt is not getting good snow quality reviews.

Stopped for lunch at Riffelberg. European Powerade is ridiculously sweet (lots sweeter than US Powerade) but the sandwich was good.

Dropped down to Furi for some more exploring. Took the gondola to Schwarzsee but it turned the corner (kind of cool) and headed up the hill more. Scoped out the bump run by the side of the piste. It was sweet! Firm fast bumps but nice and grippy and with a nice manmade zipper line. Set out to lap that and found a little race course. More fun - especially since the timer wouldn't reset so I wasn't publicly humiliated with a slow time for all to see.

By now it's getting late. The runs are so long and almost every lift is a gondola or tram requiring time consuming ski removal that we had to hurry back to make sure lifts would be running. One of us got tired and took the gondola down from Furi and took the free shuttle back. We hurried a couple lifts and groomer marathons (found a fun bump cutoff on the way down) to get to the traIl back to the middle of Zermatt. Sketchy trail with ice, slush, narrow edges and tons of people but we were able to ski back to our starting point.

The terrain is so different than what I have skied before. Here, the mountain is huge. Lifts are widely spaced so there are few paths leading to a lift. You kind of need to stay on the trails. Off piste is a good way for one who is not familiar with the mountain to get lost or stuck. So we stayed on piste. Today. Tomorrow we have a guide booked. Maybe i'll be able to get some tasty off piste lines.

It's cool that our Squaw passes got us a couple days here. Good marketing move for Squaw and Zermatt. No lines here so the other retail tickets they sold to us plus ours weren't a capacity problem.

Still wondering why all the fun stuff happens while I should be asleep. And Euro beds suck. Kind of firm twins pushed together and no top sheet, If layering works in clothing, why not bedding? And they are trash Nazis here with about 5 different trash separations for which we get fined from the condo if we mess up. No public trash cans either. I am so spoiled at Squaw.

Eric
 

Alexzn

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Zermatt is huge indeed, in fact every big European resort is HUGE even compared to Squaw. Enjoy it. If you have time I'd recommend a trip up Breithorn- it's an easy hike fir a 4,000 meters mountain above looong ski down. Post us a picture of the Matterhorn . Enjoy!
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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@Alexzn I missed my Matterhorn photo opportunity. I went to the Embassy (McDonalds). One must always visit the Embassy to truly appreciate the locals as every menu gets a local twist. My standard order is an ice cream cone but the local menu only had sundaes. I ordered the sundae and it came topped with a perfect rendition of the Matterhorn! The local touch. The Sri Lanka curry peanuts and the paprika crackers from the Coop grocery store were another local treat - but neither made good Matterhorn models (quit playing with your food!).

Since 4000 meters is too high for me to breathe, there's no way I could do an easy 1 hour hike. But the ski area is so big that there are plenty of options. And the runs we've been taking have been way too long for my quads already. I'm absolutely enjoying it!

Ulf was our guide today. It wasn't the best day to get guided as it had been a while since the last snow. But up high there was still some fun to be had off piste. We skied mostly the same runs as yesterday but got some snow that wasn't a groomer. Hohtalli had a special guided area off a short private cable car ride. Ulf picked the best lines between the ice and the random break through crust to get us sweet dusty packed powder on some long steep pitches. He also pointed us to a couple of nice bump cutoffs that allowed Liz to stay on the groomer and still ski with us. He gave us a much better feel for the mountain (actually only half the mountain as it isn't possible to ski the Italian side and still take any runs on the Zermatt side - we might try to get to Italy tomorrow but I doubt that there is time). The guide was a bit expensive but he did teach Liz quite a bit and we appreciated his tips. It would be awesome to have a guide for a powder day. Actually it might last a week as there are that many bowls and that many long powder pitches. As one from Squaw where the powder doesn't last an hour, Zermatt would be powder heaven - especially with a guide.

Today's skis were Scott Crusaders 169. They switched out my skis when they heard I was going off piste. They were going to give me some boring Solomons when I saw the Scotts go by. @Philpug has been trying to get me to try Scotts for a while but it never worked out. So my indie ski choice was a Sun Valley offering. Great choice. Pretty good on the icy groomers. Pretty good in the crud. OK but a bit slow and heavy in the bumps. OK but rides a bit deep in the bits of powder I found. A really fun ski. I switched with my son who was on some green Rossi. Absolutely horrible. Heavy, sluggish and slippery - no redeeming qualities. Fortunately I got most of the day on the nice Scotts.

The coolest spot was at what had to be the starting point for the Everest , oops I mean Matterhorn ascent. Seriously we were right there. Awesome!

Still wondering (all night) why the mountain is open during the hours when I should be sleeping. I'm exhausted - in a good way!

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Nice dinner at Old Zermatt. Had to get fondue! Great!

Zermatt is rather expensive. We're fighting about a 20 $ ch eu? taxi ride tomorrow? I see why Europeans come skiing in the US. Or Canada (the dollar is strong - the looney, Euro magnet). At least our dollars are strong for this trip. And Zermatt has wifi all over (I wonder about Chamonix). If I don't post for a while, chances are you don't need to send lawyers, guns and money. I'm probably OK. Just send money to me at Chamoix.

Eric
 

SBrown

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Nice dinner at Old Zermatt. Had to get fondue! Great!

Zermatt is rather expensive. We're fighting about a 20 $ ch eu? taxi ride tomorrow? I see why Europeans come skiing in the US. Or Canada (the dollar is strong - the looney, Euro magnet). At least our dollars are strong for this trip. And Zermatt has wifi all over (I wonder about Chamonix). If I don't post for a while, chances are you don't need to send lawyers, guns and money. I'm probably OK. Just send money to me at Chamoix.

Eric

Uh, yeah. We ate sushi on our last night there -- had been in CH 11 days, and although I love German food, we needed something else. That was the single most expensive meal ever, and we didn't even have wine I don't think.
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Last day at Zermatt. Got up late so scrapped the plans for the Italian side. Took the train to Gornergrat. Great train ride as opposed to lifts. Lunch at a restaurant just randomly placed in the run (the lamb burger was a bit rare but tasty). Nice snow and a fun relaxing day.

I rode Stockli Lasers. Not very fun. They did everything OK but nothing really well. Except they were not good in the bumps. If I got in the backseat, they jetted out. I tried to move the binding forward but couldn't figure it out on the hill. Didn't like them.

Zermatt was very tourist centered. Everything was so easy. My wife disagreed with me regarding how expensive things were there. The buses are free. The lift tickets were cheaper than Squaw. The ski rentals were reasonable. The room wasn't outrageous. Maybe the guide was expensive and the food was pricey (but tasty). We left feeling very satisfied with the visit. We all want to go back when the snow is fresh.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Chamonix is a completely different world. Still a spectacular Alpine valley but the feel is completely different. Where Zermatt was polished and modern, Chamonix is rustic. The room is horrible. It was filthy and the whole place reeked from the mold in the shower. Beware of Interhome rentals in Chamonix (they were great at Zermatt). The perfect English deteriorated to "I don't understand" when we told them about this mold and dishes sticking to the shelves. This is not a cheap rental.

Everything was closed by 8pm when we went looking to milk for breakfast. OK pizza dinner - the Mont Blanc beer was good. The manager and the waiter were quite nice. A quarter the price as Zermatt but not nearly as good either (not a fair comparison). We had to make our own beds - what is up with pushing two kids beds together for a mattress. And it would be nice to have toilet paper for every toilet.

Slept in and leisurely cleaned the apartment. Windy and not much snow took the urgency from us. Rented skis (had to go to two shops to find Black Crows) and got to the lifts at noon. Our Squaw passes weren't honored! So we went up late. We started on the poma lift at Savoy park (the apartment isn't all bad - we could walk there). Then up the PExplains gondola to get on the Brevent tram to the top. Wow it was windy. Beautiful view of the back country bowl. Not enticing because of the snow conditions and the wind. Plus I hate hiking to ski. Fought the wind around the corner to a narrow icy trail with a few hard bump cutoffs. Not particularly good skiing. Skied down to the Parsa chairlift. Fairly big (and quite unruly) line. We looked over to the other lift but it was on wind hold. Pretty much all of all Chamonix everywhere was wind closed. Explains the line. Sort of. Who really wants to ski boiler plate? There was an open race course so we did another lap. It was still horrible. We gave up on the lift and headed back to the tram. Huge line that would be a couple tram wait in the wind. So we gave up and went to the embassy for a sundae (no Matterhorn). Should have gotten a crepe. Did buy a bottle of French wine.

It was my worst ski day of the season condition wise. Over the years, I've seen Squaw on equally bad days. We saw fantastic potential. This place could be awesome with the kind of snow shown in the pictures. Just not this visit.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Not really digging the Chamonix scene. Everything is going wonky. The French people are not the most accommodating. Public transportation sucks - especially when you just miss the bus. We rented awful skis (Elan amphibio) for the kids. So I (and my wife) got stuck switching with them. The snow still sucked.

The worst part was looking at all the wonderful terrain and not being able to ski it because of the conditions.

But it was a nice day on the mountain so I shouldn't complain. (Also I started this before dinner. Back now after @SBrown inspired sushi (actually the kids wanted sushi, I like cooked tempura. Still good.) and a great Japanese whisky so I'm happier.

Skied at Grands Montets today. I guess this the real Chamonix. There was snow at the base! The nasty ticket lady wouldn't honor my Squaw gold pass (maybe Squaw should tell them about the deal?!). Rode up the Lognan gondola to mid mountain. Then took a warmup on Marmotens chair. It was a crappy double so I rode up with my wife. We neglected to put the bar down. The lift stopped. We jokingly hassled the kids behind us about screwing up. Looked at each other, put the bar down and the lift started. Are European butts that much slipperier?

Very firm snow with the on piste trails quite icy. I found some firm bumps and was dialing in the Black Crows (no magic but nothing awful). The kids eventually got down and were ready to quit because they hated their skis. So my wife and I spent the day on Elan Amphibios. It did take a while to adjust the various skis but we all ended up with something we could ride. It took the

Damn French internet lost the rest of post. I'll try again tomorrow.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Not sure if the popcorn has grown stale. It has been a long trip. So the cliff note version of last night's lost typing.

Skied the tram. @James , you missed a spectacular view. Also a staircase that might kill an old guy with a bad hip.

Found a long fun bump run next to the lift that goes almost as far up as the tram. A lot of kilometers of bumps.

No love for the Black Crows so I was OK switching to the Elans. Really quick turning skis but some awful hooking and slipping that happened randomly.

Eric
 

Choucas

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Good take on Chamonix vs. Zermatt. Both a very special places. Both are over touristed. When the wind blows, neither place is much fun. With new snow both are big fun if you know where to go and how to be safe. When there's big wind in Chamonix, the smaller parts like Le Tour, the runs down into Vallorcine and Les Houches can be better options (sometimes these are shut down too). Or going through the tunnel to Courmayeur or around the corner to St. Gervais and Megeve can offer relief on stormy days. Not the full Chamonix experience, but can be fun skiing when mother nature is going about her business.
Main thing is that you got out of North America and experienced some of what the alps have to offer. For me, traveling from the east coast of the US, Europe is still a better overall skiing experience and better value than heading to a western US or Canadian resort. I skied for 10 days in the Dolomites (access to 200 lifts on one pass) for 313 Euro this year. I can't ski 3 days for that kind of $ in Colorado or Utah.
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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French internet sucks.

Got a guide. And fresh snow! Not much fresh snow though. And the associated lack of visibility. And the dust on crust factor. Pretty challenging conditions.

Fred our guide was great, though. We were a couple minutes late due to the buses (why didn't we drive?) and the inevitable losing fight over getting our Squaw passes honored there. He strapped us in harnesses and gave us beacons. Hmmm. We went up the same gondola and warmup chair as yesterday - what a difference a day makes. The snow had just started so we suffered. Still I guess we passed Fred's assessment as he took us up the Grands Montets tram. He might have had second thoughts as I struggled with a painful hip limp down the ridiculously long staircase down to the snow.

The visibility was zero and the lubricated to minimum edge hold an the near vertical starting pitch. The bumps off to the side that had saved me the day before were unskiable so we picked our way down on the groomer. We wrapped around to a rock wall that protected us from the wind and gave some contrast to the whiteout. There were a couple areas of blow fill that were actually kind of fun but overall, it was a struggle. Back to the tram and the nice waiting room with warmed seats for the guided clients. My wife was ready to quit but she was a good sport for the sake of the kids.

Round two hadn't improved things. OK, maybe there was a bit more snow once we got a couple hundred meters down the hill. But the whiteout was extreme. I got vertigo and just fell over at 2mph. Weird. So I locked onto my son's tails and followed him down. There was a glacier everyone had been talking about downwind so I begged Fred to take us there. It was so bad on piste that we had nothing to lose so he led us there. We side slipped a nasty narrow icy chute to a pretty nice little gully. There was a break in the storm and we could see a bit. "Stay left or you'll fall in the crevasse." Hmmm. But not far into the gully we were treated to spectacular views of the glacier. The color was a pretty good match to Lisa's bright turquoise jacket. It was amazing! Lisa was stoked that she had stayed with us. The snow was reasonably good by now for the rest of the way down.

Another lap. Each lap consisted of over 1000 meters of vertical and a very long distance to ski. We were taking over an hour per lap counting tram wait, tram rides up, infinitely long staircase climbs down, clipping into the safety ropes over the crevasses (just kidding but earlier in the year Fred did have to do it that way) and the photo ops (I'll post when the kids send us the pictures). This last lap actually had some snow accumulations. Not real powder but no more ice skiing. We went down the piste mostly and found a short but sweet bump line right as the visibility got good.

The snow stopped and the fog rolled in while we were pondering the next move. Lisa gave up and was ready to ski down with Liz. My son and I asked for a way down through the trees so we could see through the fog. So Fred led us gown through a funky forest gully where we had to duck branches, jump rocks and crank turns to slowly pick our way down. There was a decent covering of heavy snow so it was really fun.

Skis today were Dynastar Chams. Hmmm. I could force them to turn and they were OK with a lot of effort. Scary on the boilerplate but the rental edges didn't feel super sharp. Not bad when going fast but it wasn't a day for fast skiing with the conditions. The bumps were OK but hard work. Not my favorite ski. Lisa couldn't figure hers out and suffered. Made the Elans look good.

I'm not sure I'm impressed with the European snow. I've had better snow on most of my Squaw days this year. The visibility issues of skiing in a huge white bowl well above the tree line make the storm skiing way more challenging than in or next to our low elevation trees. The accumulations of a few cm vs our few inches made a difference. We are late in the year and this storm might not be typical but it was a long way from the snow in the movies.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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Passed on the last day. It was a Saturday and really crowded everywhere. Blue skies but the snow had stopped too early the day before so there wasn't going to be enough (anything?) new.

So went into Geneva for a wonderful day of sightseeing and touristing. Found a waterski course in the middle of downtown! No ski boats around to rent so I missed a waterski ride but I thought it was cool.

British airways lost one of our bags on the flight home. Travel is a pain. @Choucas for a west coaster, Europe is a LONG way away. We lost 4 days to travel. And the jetlag is brutal. Certainly a great adventure but the skiing was a smaller part of the trip than I expected.

I hope I didn't bore you too much with the amateur travel log. I'll post pictures when I get them.

Eric
 
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Eleeski

Eleeski

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I added an album of some photos from the trip. I'm not sure how to link it. I had to go to media in the title bar and search by member (Eleeski). Some fun pictures.

Eric
 

Desertdawg

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Your TR makes you sound like the quintessential whiney American. I had to sign up for an account because I felt compelled to respond.

My wife, daughter, and I did the same trip you did 2 years ago. It was one of the best trips we have ever been on.We were there the first 2 weeks of April and enjoyed the same incredible spring skiing Squaw is currently experiencing. There were 3 days where we didn't ski because of weather. We skied 9 out of 15 days. 2 were spent flying from the western US and back. My wife and daughter got stranded at DIA on the last segment home and had to spend the night on the airport floor. None of us has a bad memory from this trip. In fact Amazon photos has been popping up 100 photos per day on my phone for the past 3 days to remind me of the fun we had.

We flew into Geneva from the west coast arriving at 8 AM where a perfectly functional Skoda station wagon at comparable to North American rates awaited us. 3 pair of skis, boots , clothes etc for 2 weeks fit no problem. After spending the morning in Geneva we made the leisurely drive to Chamonix arriving around 3PM. We found our lodging, rented 2 days before from a Brit on Airbnb. It was a a 3-5 minute drive from central Chamonix and on a bus line. We were there for 6 days, never having any problems with wifi. We purchased a 6 day pass that gave us skiing at Verbier, Courmayeur, and the Chamonix resorts for about $60 per day each person. The exchange rate was in the low $1.30 so much higher than current rates.

We skied the major resorts, drove the Mt Blanc tunnel and skied for a day in Courmayeur. Took trams just for the scenery. Met and chatted with Glen Plake and his wife while roaming the streets of Chamonix, he was there film a segment for a Warren Miller movie.
M jm kl
While in Chamonix we had to spend a day running my wife between a local medical clinic in Chamonix and the larger hospital in a town 20 miles up the road. We speak no french, the hospital had one person who could speak English and yet we were able to diagnose that my wife had kidney stones. We received a persciption that we were able to fill and luckily my wife passed her stone as soon as we returned from the pharmacy.
We skied Courmayeur the next day. Chamonix was awesome as was the Wifi.

After 6 days we headed to Zermatt where I secured lodging on french wifi a mere 3 hours before our arrival in Zermatt via our Skoda and the train. We were in a 1 bedroom apartment with unreal views of the Matterhorn and heated floors in the bathroom all for $200 per night. Plus there was a ski and boot room with boot dryers and a bus stop out the front door. We did have to walk 100 feet. We spent 4 incredible days sking Zermatt and Cortina. Wifi worked great here as well. For our last 3 days we spent 2 in Grindelwald including driving our Skoda onto a railcar and riding the rail while in our car for 30 minutes. Wow what an experience.

We flew back home out of Zurich so we did a one way car rental for no additional fee.

Not once did we think of our home resorts around Tahoe. We embraced the European culture and lived it.

What a concept!! Don't be a grumpy American.
 

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