Thanks all for the responses they are awesome. I am going to give it a shot on an older race ski when I get my plane beast this week. I was also wondering does the shop even pull back sidewall as I don't think they do when I get race tunes on the kids skis but as someone pointed out maybe their machines can go right through it. Race skis are costly so I need to screw up on an older pair first.
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Using a 7 degree sidewall planar tips?
- Thread starter beantownace
- Start date
When you get the plane beast, go over it with some TLC. The finish on mine was pretty rough. Lots of rough edges and burrs. Took about 15 minutes to clean it up. IMO, the tool is on the small side.
If you are doing the side edges at home, the only time the skis go to the shop is when they need a base grind.
Yeah that is what I am worried about is the panzar file seems to have the grooved multiple cutters and that lip on the fischer ski is tough it seems and easy to chop up. I am going to go very slowly on an older pair I have. Goal for now to get just enough sidewall off to use the swix evo or an electric sharpener. I will keep trying with maybe eventually the sidecut line looks nice and sharp. The skis I am doing are small they are a 120cm and a 138cm GS ski. When I get it and try on an older ski I want to see do I need to adjust the file until I get the best angle as I go tip to tail. Going to take my time figuring it out.
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This is where @Dwight 's system of 60-grit pucks has real potential. No need to worry about the specific material if the geometry is right, no colossal chisel skills, no 25 tools and a chemistry set required.
The pansar is perfect for the tip & tail section of a ski where all the different layers converge. Easy on the downward pressure and you will be OK. You should feel it cutting smoothly but lighten up if you feel it starts to skip and/or chatter. It's a hand feel you will develop over time.
It has been working well. Sometimes better than the pansar.This is where @Dwight 's system of 60-grit pucks has real potential. No need to worry about the specific material if the geometry is right, no colossal chisel skills, no 25 tools and a chemistry set required.
You can check if you took off enough sidewall by running a diamond stone along the edge in your guide. Look for sidewall-colored streaks left on the tool.
Hey all. So got my plane beast in and tested it on a old pair of race skis. When I run it across the edge it seems that the pansar file just scratches along the side edge but I don't see anything coming off aka yellow fischer sidewall. What am I doing wrong? Is it okay for the pansar file to scrape along the side edge?
First, check base flatness. If the bases aren't flat the guide won't be accurate and there's no knowing what it will do.
Either the bases aren't flat, or the angle is wrong, or the sidewall was already pulled back. My bet is on a or c.
Nothing is going to explode, but it's pointless waste of your time, edges and pansar file.
Do you have the pansar oriented properly?
The panzar will only cut in one direction.
Great question I believe I do the edge is slanted towards the way I am sliding it so it seems to be cutting now. However, it looks angled to me the 7 degree angle I guess but when I run it across the side edge metal plate flush against the base it seems to be scratching a little bit the top of the side edge it is resting on sliding along the side edge which seems not right so not sure if the angle is not enough. To your question though I believe that is why I was not getting any sidewall and when I turned it around it did take off a small strand of sidewall as I went across.
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A picture is worth a thousand words.
This is my set up. A SVST 3° side edge guide with a 3° shim on top (total 6°). The ski base is away from me. I am right handed and I am using a pulling motion. Left to right (top to bottom in the photo.
All my skis are pretty well prepped. So nothing much in terms of sidewall comes off with a swipe or two. What I usually look for is the silver spiral shaped swarf from the cutting. It indicated the panzar file has reached the bottom titanal layer on top of the side edge. On close examination of the ski, I can see the bottom titanl layer getting shinier.
This is what the swarf from the titanal should look like.
When the guide and file setup gets to the tip/tail, just make sure the guide stay in contact of the ski base to maintain the proper cutting angle.
Awesome thanks big help.
Hey Brian. Can using acetone to flash the sidewall be used on any type of sidewall construction for example the fischer race skis are a yellow ABS sidewall with race sandwich construction?
Acetone will work on just about any ABS industrially made.
The kind of sidewalls ABS has problems with (HDPE, PP, wood) are mostly reserved for park, freeride and boutique skis.
The kind of sidewalls ABS has problems with (HDPE, PP, wood) are mostly reserved for park, freeride and boutique skis.
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Does acetone soften ABS plastic though? Looks like it can provide a smooth finish but curious if some material like ABS it is not safe to use.
It's a solvent - of course it does. But it does so from the surface.
Put another way, if you put acetone in an ABS container, it will leak out, but only after making holes in (or destroying) the container.
I've used the Beast Sidewall Planer for a few years and found it simple and easy to use. As always, the goal is to take off as little material as needed to get the job done. I'd buy another one of these if I lost this one.
