• For more information on how to avoid pop-up ads and still support SkiTalk click HERE.

Using a 7 degree sidewall planar tips?

beantownace

Booting up
Skier
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Posts
69
Location
New Hampshire
Hello all,

I need some info on cutting back the sidewall as this is the one thing I am concerned about screwing up. I will of course try on an older pair of race skis first. I have small race skis 120cm fischer that has a yellow narrow sidewall and it has that thin line lip on it not sure what that is called but like the plastic runs flush against the side edge shown in the picture as well here attached. I bought a plane beast hoping I may have less risk on damaging things but of course still need to practice on an old ski. Pictures here of the planar and the ski sidewall. The ski at the tip has very little sidewall at all then middle narrow down to tail also very little sidewall. Where do I place this thing and start running it down the ski tip to tail? Also what type of pressure because I imagine that lip is going to be rough cutting through and worried about chatter making a rough sidewall. Do I need to adjust the blade on it at all?

Thanks for any tips all I need to figure this out as I am buying either a razor tune or evo so need to cut them back.
 

Attachments

  • 20230915_182024.jpg
    20230915_182024.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 35
  • Capture.JPG
    Capture.JPG
    27.6 KB · Views: 35

Brian Finch

Privateer Skier @ www.SkiWithaGrimRipper.com
Industry Insider
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
3,398
Location
Vermont
1) start by sanding the ledge a bit first to ensure it’s a smooth pull w the tool

2) make certain that the file only cuts into the corner of the ledge & not into the side wall above it

3 start tip to tail

4 you may want to shape the tips and tails on the skis too -different tool


I made a homemade sanding tool that only sands the ledge & not the edge for touch ups.
 

Atomicman

Out on the slopes
Skier
Joined
May 6, 2017
Posts
847
Also, do not go deep, more shallow passes is much better than one or deep passes. Just take a little at a time or the file can skip and you end up with a scalloped sidewall. . Personally I like this better. I use a 7 degree to smooth & Blend after the sidewall tool below

I have a razor tune and this is what I use https://www.fktools-us.com/Product-Details.asp?Part-Number=3148
 

Attachments

  • 3148.jpg
    3148.jpg
    35.8 KB · Views: 24
Thread Starter
TS
B

beantownace

Booting up
Skier
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Posts
69
Location
New Hampshire
1) start by sanding the ledge a bit first to ensure it’s a smooth pull w the tool

2) make certain that the file only cuts into the corner of the ledge & not into the side wall above it

3 start tip to tail

4 you may want to shape the tips and tails on the skis too -different tool


I made a homemade sanding tool that only sands the ledge & not the edge for touch ups.
Stupid question any preference on sandpaper grit you use to do that?
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,339
Location
NYC
This is a good video from the Toko man on working the side edge.


Here are couple of video from Starthaus on sidewalls. Good series.


 

Dave Marshak

All Time World Champion
Skier
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
1,463
I use one of these with a panzer in it:
IMG_0190.png
If you take it apart and turn the adjusting wheel upside down you get 7 degrees. Before that I used the panzer freehand.
I have a side edge planer but it’s too fussy to adjust. YMMV.

dm
 

Brian Finch

Privateer Skier @ www.SkiWithaGrimRipper.com
Industry Insider
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
3,398
Location
Vermont
Stupid question any preference on sandpaper grit you use to do that?
No stupid questions!

Use a Scotch-Brite pad! When you are all done….. use the following to really buff the sidewall: rough Scotch-Brite pad > smooth pad > 1000 grit paper > Acetone 100% FTW.
 

Wilhelmson

Making fresh tracks
Skier
Joined
May 2, 2017
Posts
4,348
Stupid questiion 1 - why dont skis come with sidewall factory planed?

2 - would a router work? A hand plane?
 

Brian Finch

Privateer Skier @ www.SkiWithaGrimRipper.com
Industry Insider
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
3,398
Location
Vermont
IMG_4198.jpeg

Here’s another easy sidewall & ledge hack. Take a old diamond stone & attach w double sided 3M mounting tape to a metal credit card sized bottle opener.

IMG_4197.jpeg

Then toss into a side guide like the BEAST tool & position so it either polishes the ledge or the sidewall above. First couple times place black marker on the edge to ensure you’re sanding sidewall/ledge only.
 

Brian Finch

Privateer Skier @ www.SkiWithaGrimRipper.com
Industry Insider
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
3,398
Location
Vermont
Stupid questiion 1 - why dont skis come with sidewall factory planed?

2 - would a router work? A hand plane?
A) the sidewall / ledge is protective & it’s impossible to clear to a standard that would suite everyone. Beginners benefit from a bulky ledge when they hack skis. Experienced skiers can tune to their needs.

B) Cost

C) Got to make the shop guys work for their beers.
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,339
Location
NYC
Stupid questiion 1 - why dont skis come with sidewall factory planed?

2 - would a router work? A hand plane?

Q1: The power edger at the factory goes through the steel edge and sidewall at the same time. The machine have enough power to do that. In fact most higher volume ski shop do the exact same thing unless you paid for a hand/race tune.

Q2: A router would be too unwieldly. Even a small hand trimmer would be awkward. A custom modified moulding plane in the right hands may work. I have seen some one here using a sharp wood chisel, free handed. Again, lots of skill involved. That said, Carrot does make a hand held electric sidewall remover. Will set you back about $1,750. Good chunk of change. I bet you it will take some effort to set up and get good consistent results.
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,339
Location
NYC
As I have said, take hands most people don't have.

 

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
7,304
Location
Boston Suburbs
I have a Kuu sidewall tool (planer? skiver? shaver? What's the right noun?)

It usually works well, but pulling back the sidewall is the strangest, most variable part of tuning. I have used a short panzar file freehand on some recalcitrant spots.
 

Dave Marshak

All Time World Champion
Skier
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
1,463
…pulling back the sidewall is the strangest, most variable part of tuning. I have used a short panzar file freehand on some recalcitrant spots.
This^^^^
When they work, sidewall planers are great, but if I’m gonna have to use a panzer sometimes it’s easier to just use it first. YMMV

dm
 

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
Skier
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 14, 2015
Posts
12,942
Location
Maine
Stupid questiion 1 - why dont skis come with sidewall factory planed?
My amateur understanding:

In the longer term it wouldn't matter if they did. You need sidewall to support the edge. If you shaved off a ton of it from the start you'd have an unsupported edge. But as you sharpen the metal edge over time, it eventually becomes flush with the sidewall. At that point you have to take off some sidewall before you can take more metal off the edge without clogging the file or stone with plastic. So it's an alternating operation.

One confusing thing is that the "sidewall" looks different not only from ski to ski, depending on construction, but along the length of a given ski. Near the ends of even a sandwich ski you can end up with cap material, core, titanal, seal fur, mystery layers, whatever. To me the bottom line is that if material is interfering with your tool's access to the steel edge, the material has to go. That's where having an actual planer AND a panzer file in a 7 degree guide (or whatever) can be helpful.
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,339
Location
NYC
To me the bottom line is that if material is interfering with your tool's access to the steel edge, the material has to go. That's where having an actual planer AND a panzer file in a 7 degree guide (or whatever) can be helpful.

On new skis, I'll often free hand with a 300mm panzar to rough out the tip and tail.
 

LiquidFeet

instructor
Instructor
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
6,730
Location
New England
No stupid questions!

Use a Scotch-Brite pad! When you are all done….. use the following to really buff the sidewall: rough Scotch-Brite pad > smooth pad > 1000 grit paper > Acetone 100% FTW.
OK you've got my attention. Do you use 100% Acetone on anything else that needs polishing? (I am not talking about fingernail polish.) Just wondering what its lesser known uses are.
 

KingGrump

Most Interesting Man In The World
Team Gathermeister
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
12,339
Location
NYC
Just wondering what its lesser known uses are.

Here are couple of links for common usage around the house.



We used huge quantities to clean and dry glassware in chemistry labs during college.
Nowadays, I use acetone for thinning certain paints (e.g. Rustoleum) used in spray guns.
 

LiquidFeet

instructor
Instructor
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
6,730
Location
New England
Here are couple of links for common usage around the house.



We used huge quantities to clean and dry glassware in chemistry labs during college.
Nowadays, I use acetone for thinning certain paints (e.g. Rustoleum) used in spray guns.
That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
 

Sponsor

Staff online

Top