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The "I need to brag about a gear purchase" thread--Cycling version

firebanex

Making fresh tracks
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Microshift Sword shifters! All mechanical 10 speed and they will be going onto my Poseidon Redwood later this winter. Still waiting for the Sword rear derailleur to become available as the cable pull ratio is supposed to be slight different than Advent X that i currently have. They feel very nice for being a budget set of shifters.
20231201_075727.jpg
 

skibob

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Microshift Sword shifters! All mechanical 10 speed and they will be going onto my Poseidon Redwood later this winter. Still waiting for the Sword rear derailleur to become available as the cable pull ratio is supposed to be slight different than Advent X that i currently have. They feel very nice for being a budget set of shifters.
View attachment 217037
How much were they if you don't mind?
 

firebanex

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I'm wrong, Sword is compatible with existing AdventX rear derailleurs.. the new Sword derailleur just has a couple of upgrades to it that make it a better choice in the end. Updated clutch, replaceable cages for 1x or 2x, swivel thingy for the cable routing, and I'd argue it looks better without the obvious looking clutch switch. They increased the cable pull for the brakes.. not the shifting.

@skibob $160 for the pair. LBS got them for me. Took them a hot minute to actually become available since the groupset was announced in July, LBS had them on order for close to three months for me. Still waiting on the rear derailleur but it's not really important as I can't ride this bike till April. Rear derailleur is about $70 and the matching crankset is about $100.

@cantunamunch I've only dry shifted them so far but they feel light and plenty clicky, reminds me of the 11speed Shimano 105 that I had on my first cross bike 6 years ago. It'll do single clicks into the smaller cogs and up to 3 clicks as your dropping into the bigger cogs. Plus you can actually see the ratchet mechanism in the shifter! I suppose it could be an issue with dirt and grime.. but you can see it so you can clean it. Now as they are compatible with Advent X, I may go ahead and install them over the weekend just to see how the shifting is. I rather enjoy the AdventX mtb shifters I've used, very positive clicking and satisfying thunks into place but it did lack the 100% precision on shifts that I have on SRAM or Shimano mechanical shifting.
 

Tom K.

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I can't believe I did this (imaginary picture of crock pot and wax block here), but I recently fell down the rabbit hole of hot waxing chains. Bored during the shoulder season, I guess.

Time will tell!
 

cantunamunch

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I can't believe I did this (imaginary picture of crock pot and wax block here), but I recently fell down the rabbit hole of hot waxing chains. Bored during the shoulder season, I guess.

Get one of those squeezable plastics drink pitchers. Simply fantastic for gravity-settling used hot wax, taking the entire block out, and cutting off the filthy bottom. :D

Welcome to the 235F club :D
 

cantunamunch

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Argh, am I doing it wrong? Molten Speedwax says 200F.

I suppose I'm going to have to rewax all seven chains, now.......

Oh I don't care- my wax is a mix of ski wax scrapings and shavings. so long as the chain is hot enough for the wax to drip off you're fine.
 

Rudi Riet

AKA songfta AKA randomduck - a USSS coach, as well
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*grin* in ~10 years you all might be in the ultrasonic clean camp too :D

With the advent of Silca Chain Stripper there's no need to go ultrasonic when preparing chains. The stuff simply works with simple tools - namely the stripper solution and a Mason jar. Place chain in, give a gentle swirl, wait 10 minutes, agitate with vigor, remove chain (and reuse the solution), dry with a clean microfiber cloth. You can let it fully air dry but it's also fine to place it into the wax pot while still damp.

Ultrasonic will still be the go-to for deep cleaning of components, tho.
 

cantunamunch

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Ultrasonic will still be the go-to for deep cleaning of components, tho.

I am actually less keen on it for components - certainly for painted or coated alu ones. It's chains and bearings that come out nice. Steel is *safe*.

For coated Alu or Ti you have to be quite careful of which detergent solution you're using. Or wind up with a glossy-to-matte conversion device. It can even take some powder coating off.

With the advent of Silca Chain Stripper there's no need to go ultrasonic when preparing chains. The stuff simply works with simple tools - namely the stripper solution and a Mason jar. Place chain in, give a gentle swirl, wait 10 minutes, agitate with vigor, remove chain (and reuse the solution), dry with a clean microfiber cloth. You can let it fully air dry but it's also fine to place it into the wax pot while still damp.

Keen inliners have been doing this procedure since the 90s - some with acetone, some with name branded bearing cleaner, and the eco-conscious ones with gun parts detergent. If SCS is better for bearings than, say, Sonic Citrus, I'll pass it on.
 
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Tom K.

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With the advent of Silca Chain Stripper there's no need to go ultrasonic when preparing chains. The stuff simply works with simple tools - namely the stripper solution and a Mason jar. Place chain in, give a gentle swirl, wait 10 minutes, agitate with vigor, remove chain (and reuse the solution), dry with a clean microfiber cloth.

Similar process with me, using two stages of good old gasoline (~ 6 ounces each stage).

Amazingly, the second stage container's gas was very clean looking afterwards, indicating one stage is probably adequate.

Post-wash rag wipe was very clean.

Note that this process followed a thorough scrubbing/washing with the miraculous Dawn Dish Soap then garden hose powerflush while still on the bike, so things were already pretty clean.

Initial results are very promising, and inarguable in terms of drivetrain cleanliness. Even better than my "night before lube then wipe like crazy the next morning" approach with Wolftooth WT1 -- still by far the longest lasting oil chain lube I've used, and very similar to SC Tech.

And yes, I recycled the 10 ounces of gasoline like a good boy. ;)
 

Rudi Riet

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Similar process with me, using two stages of good old gasoline (~ 6 ounces each stage).

One stage needed with Silca and non-toxic - a big advantage over petroleum distillate. Seriously: it's good.

Initial results are very promising, and inarguable in terms of drivetrain cleanliness. Even better than my "night before lube then wipe like crazy the next morning" approach with Wolftooth WT1 -- still by far the longest lasting oil chain lube I've used, and very similar to SC Tech.

Waxed chains are awesome and stay clean - win-win.
 

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