Want To Buy Pivot Heel Shims

[Jakezee]

Anyone have some kicking around?
For my 187 current Gen Brahma 82's - I feel like a little more delta will help me get on top of these.

 

[Philpug]

Anyone have some kicking around?
For my 187 current Gen Brahma 82's - I feel like a little more delta will help me get on top of these.

4 or 6mm?

 

[Ivan]

Anyone have some kicking around?
For my 187 current Gen Brahma 82's - I feel like a little more delta will help me get on top of these.

You can email Rossi/Lange and ask directly: https://www.rossignol.com/us-en/ls-contact-us.html. Over the years, they've helped me with a lot of various stuff: boots hardware, extra boot liners, bootboards, etc.

 

[SlideWright]

Anyone have some kicking around?
For my 187 current Gen Brahma 82's - I feel like a little more delta will help me get on top of these.

What height do you need? I could 3D print some out of Carbon infused PETG.

Out of curiosity, would heel lifts accomplish a similar result?

 

[Jakezee]

4 or 6mm?

Late reply sorry got busy and also got on the snow yesterday...put the spoilers in my boots and that helped alot - but Ultimately I think its about proper technique and speed with these Brahma 82's. I've only been out on them twice but my current theory is that they need to be flexed well at speed to start to engage the tips past the rocker line; and then the ski really gets exciting. After putting the spoiler back in, I was able to get to that point easier - but the ski is still demanding proper technique.
I actually watched a video (I think on here) about how a higher heel than toe on the binding actually makes it more difficult to engage the tips and it's better to be flat...so I have a 1mm toe shim that I might try. I epoxy my screws Sonim thinking that the same screws should be ok.

 

[Jakezee]

You can email Rossi/Lange and ask directly: https://www.rossignol.com/us-en/ls-contact-us.html. Over the years, they've helped me with a lot of various stuff: boots hardware, extra boot liners, bootboards, etc.

Nice- thank you!

 

[Jakezee]

What height do you need? I could 3D print some out of Carbon infused PETG.

Out of curiosity, would heel lifts accomplish a similar result?

Thanks man - I might take you up on that if I end up putting 1mm shim under the toe and like it.

Heel lifts came with my boots - maybe it's worth a shot to try them. This binding/boot binding interface rabbit hole is all new to me!

 

[FlimFlamvanHam]

I actually watched a video (I think on here) about how a higher heel than toe on the binding actually makes it more difficult to engage the tips and it's better to be flat...so I have a 1mm toe shim that I might try. I epoxy my screws Sonim thinking that the same screws should be ok.

Hey! Everyone responds differently to lean and ramp, you just need to keep working out what works best for you. Frankly, mucking around with spoilers is probably the easiest way to figure out your ballpark over adding stack to the heel of the binding. Just my 2c.

Also, the flex of the 187 is stout, especially compared to the shorter lengths (maybe stating the obvious). It's a pretty straight ski and that is even more evident in the 187 (same dims all lengths) and a bit weird with that bit of tip rocker. Point is, you're right, it needs speed. The shorter length are easier to engage with rolling onto edge, but they are nowhere near a ski that is designed to hook up (more sidecut shape) when tipped.

 

[Jakezee]

Hey! Everyone responds differently to lean and ramp, you just need to keep working out what works best for you. Frankly, mucking around with spoilers is probably the easiest way to figure out your ballpark over adding stack to the heel of the binding. Just my 2c.

Also, the flex of the 187 is stout, especially compared to the shorter lengths (maybe stating the obvious). It's a pretty straight ski and that is even more evident in the 187 (same dims all lengths) and a bit weird with that bit of tip rocker. Point is, you're right, it needs speed. The shorter length are easier to engage with rolling onto edge, but they are nowhere near a ski that is designed to hook up (more sidecut shape)

Thanks for the input.
As I start down the rabbit hole, I'm pretty sure 0 delta is what going for by shimming the toe.

Although I've never been on race skis, I'm thinking that the B82 are like (relatively low) rockered GS skis...? Which is pretty much what I was looking for.

I prob should move these 2 topics I'm hitting on to the proper threads...no longer looking for the heel shims

 

[SlideWright]

I'm also wondering how a different mount location compares to ramp angles for what you and others are trying to achieve?

I received your PM regarding toe shims and will respond but in the event others may also be interested, I added a Binding Shim category to our store. I've been kicking this around already and need to get a prototype going. I thought Cast used to provide shims as another option, BTW. While searching for others I found AT binding shims available, but I was surprised not to find alpine shims.

Anyways, I'll give this a go and they can be back ordered here: SlideWright Look Pivot/SPX GW Toe Shim-4mm 1pr If there is any real interest I can add this (and other sizes) as a downloadable print file so people could print their own.

Edit: I also have some heel lift and varus wedge options as a side project.

 

[Philpug]

added a Binding Shim category to our store.

Will you be including longer screws with the shims?

 

[SlideWright]

Will you be including longer screws with the shims?

Thanks for reminding me. I meant to include above.

Using the B&D Shims & Skimo models, I'm thinking screws will need to be separate. (Talk about a rabbit hole.)

Can you measure the PIVOT toe and heel screws for me, please? On a recent mount, I forgot to do so FTR. Then I can add lengths as needed.

If anyone is seriously looking into shimming their bindings, I highly recommend taking a hard look at stainless steel inserts too. Once installed you can swap out bindings, shims, etc AND have unlimited options for ss machine screws. Trying to source alpine screws for thicker mounts will get harder and harder and frankly a PITA. See our Binding Mount tips for more info.

 

[Jakezee]

This is awesome! Appreciate the dedication!
Yesterday i checked and it looks like the half moon screws are 4mm longer than the toe piece screws...
I can measure all screws later today.

 

[Jakezee]

Thanks for reminding me. I meant to include above.

Using the B&D Shims & Skimo models, I'm thinking screws will need to be separate. (Talk about a rabbit hole.)

Can you measure the PIVOT toe and heel screws for me, please? On a recent mount, I forgot to do so FTR. Then I can add lengths as needed.

If anyone is seriously looking into shimming their bindings, I highly recommend taking a hard look at stainless steel inserts too. Once installed you can swap out bindings, shims, etc AND have unlimited options for ss machine screws. Trying to source alpine screws for thicker mounts will get harder and harder and frankly a PITA. See our Binding Mount tips for more info.

Look

www.bindingfreedom.com

These lengths checked out on my Pivot 15/18 screws - for the shaft length, not including the head. Note that the half moon screws have a lower head, as stated in the link.

Im seriously considering inserts, mostly because I think the threads in the core get compromised every time they're reused. I epoxy my screws in and If I want to remove the bindings for any reason and reuse the holes, I use a soldering iron to heat up the screws to loosen the epoxy so as not to break the threads...inserts would be so much easier, and a stronger connection.

 

[SlideWright]

Look

www.bindingfreedom.com

These lengths checked out on my Pivot 15/18 screws - for the shaft length, not including the head. Note that the half moon screws have a lower head, as stated in the link.

Im seriously considering inserts, mostly because I think the threads in the core get compromised every time they're reused. I epoxy my screws in and If I want to remove the bindings for any reason and reuse the holes, I use a soldering iron to heat up the screws to loosen the epoxy so as not to break the threads...inserts would be so much easier, and a stronger connection.

You won’t regret the inserts. You can bang out swaps pretty quickly with a clutched drill.

We carry Binding Freedom & QK inserts and machine screws and tools. There’s a bunch of info in our tips. The lowhead screws to the left are the pivot heel screws you are referring too. Last I checked the pozi low heads are available up to 26mm. If you want longer you can get Phillips or hex pan heads and grind them down easily. I designed the insert tool that works well. There’s a raw video on use.

 

[SlideWright]

In the event there are others interested or have better ideas on the shim development process:

FWIW, here is an example of a requested Pivot 15 GW to shim in process. This wasn't a scan but a phone shot of the bottom of the toe base with the toe piece removed. Note the distortion vs a scan.....but is close. To try and get a more accurate profile, I rouged out the base shape on the binding hole layout & on a 5mm x 5mm grid.

Procedure:

• Download this roughed out Pivot 15 toe shim PDF & print & confirm scale
• adjust scale and reprint if needed
• place Pivot 15 GW afd base over correct PDF & align holes
• trace perimeter of your base
• remove base and photograph (ideally scan) the traced piece & send

After receipt of trace and redraw to confirm, I can model the shim.