Almost a year ago I was asking for advice about visiting New England for a ski trip and got some good pointers through this forum. Just last Saturday we returned from that trip.
We had multiple goals for this adventure. My wife doesn’t ski so we needed a location that she could enjoy. Our daughter lives in Brooklyn, NY, and we wanted to both visit her in NYC and get her out of the city for some skiing. We are looking at an extended stay in NY next year and wanted to tour some likely neighborhoods. We wanted to take the train and not need a car if possible. We wanted to ski in New England, which we have never done before. We wanted to see some prototypical New England scenery. We were able to accomplish all of that remarkably well!
We flew to Newark Liberty Airport, took the Northeast Connector to Penn Station, and then schlepped our gear to the New Yorker Hotel, where we stayed for three nights. During our stay we were able to visit several New York neighborhoods and get ideas for our future rental. We had a nice dinner at
Biricchino, near Madison Square Garden. We also visited
Fabrique Bakery in the West Village for Swedish cardamom rolls. Delicious!
On a Sunday afternoon, the three of us caught the Amtrak Ethan Allen Express at Penn Station Moynihan train hall and had a lovely ride along the Hudson River to Rutland, Vermont. Five and a half hours of mostly rural upstate New York scenery. We then took a short but very cold walk to the Rutland transit center to catch the free Killington shuttle bus. We were staying in the Trail Creek condos, a short walk from the Killington Grand Resort Hotel, which is the last stop on the shuttle route, except the bus driver took pity on us and drove the extra distance to our condo and dropped us off there. Try that in NYC!
Did I say it was cold? For the next few mornings it was near or below zero degrees Fahrenheit, and in the teens or low twenties durning the day. It snowed a few inches our first night, excellent quality snow with the cold, and the next two days skiing were excellent. My daughter and I rented skis at
Black Dog Sports, skied on Green and Blue runs mostly, and stayed off the summit due to the cold, blustery weather. Nonetheless we found plenty of great runs on Snowshed, Skyeship Gondola, Skye Peak Express, and Northbrook Quad. We had a wonderful lunch at
Jerk Jamaican Grill at the Northbrook quad base. We did take the K-1 Gondola on Tuesday, our second ski day but clouds were coming in and so the view wasn’t expansive. Locals described the skiing as “New England NIcy” (as opposed to NE Icy,) and it was truly great. The grooming at Killington is excellent, as good as I have seen anywhere.
Wednesday early am it snowed, then cleared and warmed up to the high 20’s. On the recommendation of
LiquidFeet, we rented a car and drove into Woodstock, Vt for a tour of the NE countryside and to see a quintessential NE town. This was an excellent idea, and we had a lovely afternoon. We had lunch at the
Soulfood Cafe, and walked around the quaint town. Definitely a worthwhile side trip.
Thursday early am it snowed again, and then the real cold returned. My daughter had to return to NYC for work. This was a shame, because with 4-6” of new snow and single digit temps, that ski day was truly one of my best days ever. I was able to tour the entire huge resort and I think I took every lift that was running. I joke that skiers want Camelot-perfect groom, then 4” of perfect snow, then a perfect, sunny windless day. This day was exactly that, except it snowed lightly throughout the day.
The next day we reversed our route back to Rutland, Amtrak and NYC for another night at our hotel. Saturday, a little more touring of NYC neighborhoods, then back to Newark airport for out return flight to PDX. Overall the trip really could not have gone better, and I certainly look forward to a return trip to see more of New England skiing.
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My daughter on Skye Peak
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At the Jerk Jamaican Grill
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Woodstock, Vermont
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The Empire State Building lit up in solidarity with the Ukraine