How to tune base edge and which tools are the best?

[SwissSki]

Hi all, I learned in this forum to not touch my base edge with anything else than a ceramic stone to remove the burr after sharpening. But I have a few questions:

1. Which ceramic stones are you using? I find it pretty hard to find one online. I found:
   Amazon
   Race Plate
   Are both good enough? Any better options?
2. Should I get a base edge guide or is it better to do free hand? Are adjustable guides from Toko or Swix any good or should I get a fixed one?

Thank you so much!

 

[scott43]

I use an adjustable aluminum Swix base file guide. I personally would not do it freehand. I'm even careful with the guide to not use too much pressure and risk increasing the angle. If you get fixed you're stuck at one angle. It's certainly better but fixed. You shouldn't have to touch the base angle very often so it's not overly labour intensive.

 

[Sibhusky]

1. Amazon just takes me to some general Kindle page. Race Place looks fine.
2. I'd never do it freehand. At least with a guide you start to know that you're over-beveled because you can't reach the ding. At that point you can always hit it freehand if you must. But you know you should go get a base grind (I personally wouldn't rush until I felt the performance hit.)

 

[KingGrump]

Both Race Place and Race Werks carry a decent selection.

Guide or free hand? Depends on your hands. How well do you feel?

 

[sparty]

How did you create the burr you're removing? And how was the base angle set initially?

I prefer to use a ceramic stone freehand if necessary for removing a hanging burr, but it does take some feel and some practice. IMO, it's even better if you can use a tool that doesn't leave a burr to begin with (the RazorTune sometimes seems to fall in this category--I've run it on a couple dozen pairs of skis in one session and only needed to follow up with the stone on about half of those).

If you want to use a guide, I'd be trying to use the same one used to initially set the edge angle. That way, you don't run into any issues related to differences in accuracy. (this is also why I prefer to freehand burr removal--i read taught that after you make enough passes on the base edge to remove the burr, you make one pass on the stove sign to ensure the edge is sharp, and that requires matching both side and base angles).

 

[snwbrdr]

Hi all, I learned in this forum to not touch my base edge with anything else than a ceramic stone to remove the burr after sharpening. But I have a few questions:

1. Which ceramic stones are you using? I find it pretty hard to find one online. I found:
   Amazon
   Race Plate
   Are both good enough? Any better options?
2. Should I get a base edge guide or is it better to do free hand? Are adjustable guides from Toko or Swix any good or should I get a fixed one?

Thank you so much!

With a ceramic stone, you can free hand it, since it's not as aggressive as the bastard file....

You can get a base edge guide, but you'll have to buy a set since there's a chance it's not what you think it is if you only buy one

 

[Henry]

Yes, get a guide for the angle you like. I use a fixed guide. An adjustable guide is OK.

I use a fine or medium diamond stone to remove the raised burrs on the bottom edges. Ceramic is OK, just slower; I may use ceramic for the final polish. As you noted, we are not removing steel from the bottom edge except any raised burrs. You'll hear the burrs as you go over them the first time or two.

The same thing on the side edges. Use a guide for your angle. It is OK to remove just enough steel to get a smooth if that's what you want to do. Or just remove the raised burrs and save some steel for the time you do a complete job. Again I use a diamond stone and may use a ceramic for a finish polish. Tip--put ink from a Sharpie type felt tip pen on the edge, then remove just enough steel to get it smooth and remove the ink. Remove as little steel as you can to do the job; that's part of the life of your skis.

There are several good mail order tuning supply shops. I use Tognar. Race Place is good, as is Reliable Racing Supply. At Amazon use "ski tuning stone" in the search box.

 

[Magikarp]

Yes, get a guide for the angle you like. I use a fixed guide. An adjustable guide is OK.

I use a fine or medium diamond stone to remove the raised burrs on the bottom edges. Ceramic is OK, just slower; I may use ceramic for the final polish. As you noted, we are not removing steel from the bottom edge except any raised burrs. You'll hear the burrs as you go over them the first time or two.

The same thing on the side edges. Use a guide for your angle. It is OK to remove just enough steel to get a smooth if that's what you want to do. Or just remove the raised burrs and save some steel for the time you do a complete job. Again I use a diamond stone and may use a ceramic for a finish polish. Tip--put ink from a Sharpie type felt tip pen on the edge, then remove just enough steel to get it smooth and remove the ink. Remove as little steel as you can to do the job; that's part of the life of your skis.

There are several good mail order tuning supply shops. I use Tognar. Race Place is good, as is Reliable Racing Supply. At Amazon use "ski tuning stone" in the search box.

Do diamond stones remove too much material and mess up the base angle? I've been doing it that way for a while and always wondered...

 

[SlideWright]

Do diamond stones remove too much material and mess up the base angle? I've been doing it that way for a while and always wondered...

Not if they are in a base bevel guide.

 

[hotwinter74]

Hi, guys...
1500 grit Diamond stone
White fine ceramic stone (about 1200 grit? I'm not sure)
Black Arkansas stone (over 1500grit?)
What are the uses, benefits, and differences of these 3 stones?

In the Swix tuning video, technician said
After base edge bevel, he doesn't touch it at all.
however, when he needs to do something at the base edge, he uses a fine ceramic stone.
Because fine ceramic doesn't change the bevel angle. (few strokes)
Well, if someone has 1500 grit diamond stone, then no need to buy ceramic stone?

 

[Sibhusky]

They are pretty redundant. I use a fine ceramic for that grit neighborhood.

 

[Jilly]

I just started tuning this year. I'm using Sidecut stuff.

Sidecut Ski Snowboard Cross Country tuning tools

Sidecut designs the highest quality tuning tools and provide knowledge enabling snow skiers, ski racers, snowboarders, XC skiers to reach their maximum potential.

www.sidecut.com

But I know that Toko is a sponsor here.....

 

[James]

Any of those fine stones you can use on the base edge after filing to make sure there’s no hanging burr. Or use the ceramic or a hard Arkansas stone (natural stone, i.e., a real rock)

However, if you don’t have those, use the finest you’ve got, preferably 200 or finer. If you’ve hit a rock you can use say a 100 first, then go finer.

I just hold them flat on the base/edge. If you feel you must, use the guide.