International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Hakuba 2019

[karlo]

Hakuba, January 30 to February 3, topped of with a day at Myoko after a grueling business schedule in China and Japan.

First day, some tuning, of me, not my gear. Found a CSIA Level 4 instructor to ski with. Can’t wait. He has no idea what’s in store for him. Having been dealing with a left hip injury that’s affected my left footers, I’ll be grilling him for dryland and on snow warmup recommendations. Then, I have a list of skiing tasks I want to do, both light and heavy, and I’ll ask him to video me, to see at what point I can’t hold it. And, when I can’t hold it, what’s going on. He thinks he’s going to set up a program for me? No, I’m setting up a program for me. I’ll need every bit of his discerning eye to break down my skiing.

I’m on a mission.

Then a day of offpiste (Japan’s sidecountry) skiing, and a couple days of backcountry skiing. This past September, a hut to hut tour did not go as well as I would have liked, with inappropriately heavy gear and fatigue of my hip from the long climbs and traverses. This will be back to what I’m used to, day tours with day packs. I want to see for myself that I can still do that.

I’m on a mission.

After a day off, onto Myoko. Those who’ve read what happened last year know that I didn’t get into the backcountry there, having let a ski get away from me, during transition, over the edge of a crater. Luckily, I was able to retrieve the ski by climbing down, harnessed to a tree, courtesy of my trusty guide. That, with other difficulties I encountered... no, difficulties I had, and the guide encountered, we had to retreat back to the resort from which we came. Not again.

I’m on a mission.

Oh, and one more thing. I’ve been wanting to demo the Head Kore 93’s. Found them at Central Snowsports. Shops around my home resort are sold out, having even sold their demos. The Head Hakuba Station only has a 171 to rent, and none for sale. Not only does Central Snowsports have the 180’s for rent, they’re mounted with alpine bindings that can accommodate my touring boots, the only pair I brought. I’m taking them out for the first day, with the instructor, to check both me and the skis out.

I’m on a mission.

 

[karlo]

Had a fruitful meeting today, went to a recital and listened to a beautiful performance of Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 8, Op. 13, had friendly welcoming company at a post-recital reception, dined at a Japanese “bistro” and had broccoli “Ajillo”, mushroom “Ajillo”, Satsuma-age (fried fish cake), and jerk Sakurahime chicken, washed down with a Chardonnay. Then, the thought arose, what’s it going to be like?


Nice! 10” on my first day, followed by sunshine. Then, I wondered what’s it going to be like back home.



Wow, 6” the night before! Then, I look at the windchill temperature, in the negative 20’s and 30’s!

I am feeling very fortunate. My thoughts then turn to more immediate concerns, whether or not, on my last night in Tokyo tomorrow, before heading up, I can make it to IMAX showing of Bohemian Rhapsody.

 

[karlo]

I did it. Got back to Shinagawa and went straightaway to pick up a ticket. Selected one of the best seats in the theater, all assigned seating. Dropped my things off in my room, grabbed dinner, and made it back just in time. Great movie. Didn't mind at all that I was catching it without my wife and kids, back home. After all, they've already seen it, weeks ago, … without me. But, not in IMAX


"Be sure to read the description"... of this video.

 

[James]

Surely, you'll discuss the ankles?

 

[karlo]

Surely, you'll discuss the ankles?

Surely not. As I said in the OP, it's my hip injury, and its dysfunction that is causing me problems, in my left-foot turn initiation.

Today, I travel to Nagano. Tomorrow I'm on-snow!

After the movie last night, I picked up my boot bag from the front desk, it having been delivered yesterday morning, a full week after it was Fedex'd from the U.S! I was truly getting worried. Though I carried my boots with me through China, then to Japan, my helmet, ski clothes, goggles, etc. were in there. Nothing I can't replace, either by purchase or rental (yes, in Japan, one can rent ski clothing). But, it would have really been a pain. So, want to know what caused the delay in customs? Pills. They found pink and white pills in my bag and wanted to know the identity. Being helpful, Fedex also advised that if they were (i.e., if I declared them to be) nutritional supplements, the bag would pass. I couldn't bring myself to do that, not being able to see what they were myself. Maybe the pink ones are Advil? I do carry them on account of my hip. So, I asked for a photo.



Who can guess what they are?

Spoiler: Answer

Yup, my favorite nutritional supplement, Good & Plenty.

I was told that, because of the legalization of certain substances in North America, in the two C's, Japan customs has become much more diligent about illegal and controlled substances. Hence, my bag was held up. Come on. What did you think they were?

This was not the only baggage hiccup on this trip. Last week, in China,

https://www.pugski.com/threads/what-not-to-check-in.13713/#post-315723

Moral of the story, be careful about what you pack and where you pack it.

Anyway, today, after one more meeting, I am off to Nagano on the Shinkansen. As @Mattadvproject is doing,

https://www.pugski.com/threads/tohoku-japan-2019-trip-report.13764/

the JR Pass is a great way to purchase access to the extensive rail network in Japan. Not only do you get access to the Shinkansen's, you get access to all the trains in and around Tokyo. Basically, it allows you 5-days use of the train network over a 14-day period. Here are more details,

https://www.jreast.co.jp/e/eastpass/
​

Click on either Tohoku area, which @Mattadvproject is getting, or Nagano/Niigata area, which I am getting. Aside from being a great economic deal, it is super convenient if you plan on using it for local trains in and around Tokyo or other cities in the pass's region. You don't have walk up to the ticket counter or to a ticket vending machine, to purchase a ticket for each leg you wish to travel. Just present the pass to the attendant at the turnstiles.

Anyway, everything has lined up. Gear, transport, snow forecast. I think I'll listen to more Queen on the ride up.

 

[James]

Surely not. As I said in the OP, it's my hip injury, and its dysfunction that is causing me problems, in my left-foot turn initiation

So, you leave the tough stuff for us? Surely, you must be curious!
He'll probably bring it up. Note, "feet" will count towards "ankles".

Come on. What did you think they were?

I thought it might be fecal pills. Though the white was something else.

 

[Jim McDonald]

P-tex pellets (for repairing all the rocks you'll hit in this low-tide Hakuba season)!

(edit) OK, just checked and it has gotten better in the past 10 days.

 

[Eleeski]

@Jim McDonald Low tide? My son has been enjoying Nozawa Onsen. Our great days in Niseko were ho hum compared to the amounts of snow he's been getting there.

I'm jealous of @karlo . If he can keep his vices under control (G&P? My chocolate was not confiscated) he'll have a great time. GNAR points for vending machine hot coffee for the lifties while waiting for opening bell? I didn't see Red Bull vending machines. Japow scores GNAR points by just getting it!

Eric

 

[Jim McDonald]

Low tide in Hakuba. Nozawa's having a very nice season, indeed. Totally different micro climates, Eric.

 

[Eleeski]

The microclimates in Japan are magic. Have you skied Okutadami Maruyama? Closed January 6 for too much snow?!! And I've never imagined snow like we had in Niseko. They say it's below average. Wow. You are just spoiled.

Eric

 

[Jim McDonald]

Yeah, Niseko is a little below average this year...


Chart courtesy of SnowJapan.com
https://www.snowjapan.com/japan-daily-snow-weather-reports/Niseko-Now/snowfall-analysis

 

[Eleeski]

You Japow skiers are so spoiled! It might be worse now knowing what I'm missing.

@Jim McDonald Bummed we missed you over there. And thanks for setting Kirk up with skis. Those are very nice skis and Kirk loves them.

Eric

 

[Jim McDonald]

Glad you guys had fun, Eric. Come back again next season!

 

[karlo]

Arriving at the ryokan, Toshi greets me with a “welcome home”. It does feel like home. He takes me to the same room I use whenever I travel here alone. I unpack. Set a time for dinner with Satsuka, Toshi’s sister, and I’m off to collect the skis.

Train travel is so convenient in Japan. I started this morning in Shinagawa, a district in Tokyo, and took the train to Kawasaki for a meeting. There are lockers at the stations, so, having checked out of the hotel, I stored my bags in one of them before boarding. 600 yen. After the meeting, we return to Shinagawa for lunch at the station. Nice choice of restaurants: Mexican, Thai, Pizza, Japanese... We settle for a jazz club. No sets during lunch, but delicious food. The Japanese really know how to prepare pasta.

After lunch, I’m on my own and headed to Hakuba. 12 minute ride on the Yamanote line takes me to Tokyo Station. A short walk and I’m at the Shinkansen track with 20 minutes to spare. Arriving Nagano about about 1-1/2 hour later, I buy my bus ticket and am in line for the bus with 15 minutes to spare. Naturally, the bus schedule is well coordinated with the Shinkansen schedule. About an hour later, I disembark at the Happo bus terminal. A short walk down a hot-springs cleared road and I’ve arrived.

At the shop, the skis are waxed and we just have to set the bindings. I already like them, the Kore 93’s. Beefy, yet really light despite being mounted with alpine bindings. Then, I notice the shape. What is it called, splay, flare, whatever; it’s got a lot less than I thought looking at photos, more of a tip to initiate with. Tails are a bit curved, which I guess means they’ll release earlier (or more easily), but only a bit.

Dinner calls. Looking so forward to it. Home cooking by Toshi and Satsuka’s mother. Vegetables grown in their own garden. Toshi peeks out at me. “Any time, dozo.” Better go.

 

[karlo]

Powder Day at Hakuba Cortina


Five days of spectacular skiing in Hakuba and exploring its beautiful backcountry. Prior to my arrival, after a very slow start to the season, it dumped and dumped and dumped, until average snow pack was back to normal. However, just before arriving, there was a bit of a warm spell and, as a result, south facing aspects developed hardpack and crust, on-piste and offpiste, respectively.

I spent the first day with an instructor. I may write more on that in a post in the Physical Fitness, Rehab section. Suffice it to say that it was the most tailored lesson I ever had, dealing with dysfunctions that have developed from a hip injury. I developed a keen awareness of what I had to do, what muscles I had to fire on my left footers. I was given on-ski mobilization exercises that I used in coming days to activate those muscles, as well as exercises to do before a run, before clicking in. The outcome was a restoration of my ability to make smooth rounded linked turns on any terrain, in any conditions. It was the difference between enjoying the subsequent days of skiing and struggling. If you ever have the opportunity and fortune to do so, I highly recommend spending some time skiing with Gabriel Bouffard, a CSIA Level 4 instructor and a Level 2 Coach, who is experiencing Japan for his first time.

That first day, with Gabriel, was on-piste, in-resort, on a thin layer of fresh snow that had fallen on hardpack. The beginner trail remained packed powder throughout the day. But, intermediate trails and up got scraped off. Still, perfectly fine conditions for my purposes. The next day, we were in the hunt for powder and Hakuba did not disappoint.

Between what fell during that first day and overnight, about 20 cm had fallen at Hakuba Cortina. What was available in-resort was going to get skied out quickly, as two lifts and an entire side of the resort were closed the entire day on account of avalanche hazard and the associated avalanche control operations. But, not to worry. Finding fresh powder? Not a problem. Mel, my guide for the day, and I are going into the backcountry. Can’t use that closed part of the resort as an exit, to return to the van that’s parked at the bottom? Not a problem, we won’t return. Instead, we’ll make our way to a train station in a farming village; a train and a shuttle bus transfer will get us back to Cortina and the van.

We have to concern ourselves with avalanche hazard. Recall, there had been a thaw, then a freeze, particularly on sunny aspects, then 20 cm of fresh snow on a crust. In fact, it was that aspect that was closed at Cortina. So, we will explore northern aspects; and we will stay in the trees, where the snow will be more protected from the wind. What a great call! Mel tells me I’m going hip deep in powder. I can’t tell, but however deep I am going, it is sweet! What are we skiing? During our lunch break, Mel digs a pit to collect data. 1.2 meters of consistent snow density. No crust; never got exposed to sun, never got warm enough, to experience a thaw. Not a single weak layer.

Time to make our way to the village and the train station with more skinning and skiing. While we are at it, we continue the hunt. What other potential lines are there that we can come back to next year? We find them.



It’s a northern aspect. It’s got a nice pitch. Some shrubs, but nothing too bothersome. And, there are three kamushka’s hanging out there. Kamushka’s are very, very shy. Three on the same slope? That tells us that not many have been skiing and riding it.

We continue our way, skinning through a picturesque landscape.







Then, we come to this.


Please go to Picture of the Day thread in Video and Photo section for curated photos.

https://www.pugski.com/posts/321668/

Rice fields, or should I say paddies? Well, paddies are filled with water. Does snow count as water? I realize I’ve been here before, two years ago. But, it was overcast and not anywhere close to being as beautiful. Mel and I spend the next 15 minutes there, watching the play of light and shadows, waiting patiently for photo opportunities, like hunters lying in wait. Not to worry, we can be patient. Mel had radioed in our whereabouts and destination, and Kana, at the office, volunteered to come and pick us up. Some more skinning, some more skiing, all of it in perfect powder. When we reach the road, Kana awaits us.

Today, Mel and I had a successful hunt. We did some incredible powder skiing in the trees. We immersed ourselves in a beautiful snow-covered landscape and shot some nice photos. And, we scoped out some lines for next year; she promises, by season’s end, to ride them and find the best lines. It was a great day. I am looking forward to dinner and a good night’s rest.

 

[James]

Didn't they run some of the '98 Olympic Alpine races at Hakuba?

 

[karlo]

He'll probably bring it up. Note, "feet" will count towards "ankles".

He didn’t bring it up. Here was the lesson

https://www.pugski.com/threads/on-snow-physical-therapy-and-rehab.13950/

Didn't they run some of the '98 Olympic Alpine races at Hakuba?

Probably. There are Olympic banners celebrating the fact that the event was held there. Exactly which events, I don’t know. The ramp for jumps is quite prominent though

 

[karlo]

Ah, dinner. Upon checking in, the first question I had for Toshi was whether or not there were any new restaurants. Yes, Issei. Opened in September. Toshi helps with with a reservation, though he says it’s likely not necessary. It’s relatively unknown since they hadn’t gotten themselves listed in any of the guides. He wasn’t kidding. I walk in and the only patrons are three Japanese at one table. They have left by the time I am served. By the time I leave, only one other party enters, a larger group of Swedes, the same group at the ryokan, having been referred also by Toshi.

I receive a very friendly and formal Japanese greeting from the, I assume, wife and am seated at the counter, at a spot that is marked reserved. Tonkatsu is featured on the menu as the main course. I’m staying away from red meats and fried foods, so I focus my attention on the nice selection of small dishes and decide to order several of those; edamame, a tofu salad, local salmon sashimi, and, can’t help myself, fried fish cake. The edamame is good. I’ve never had edamame that I would call great. I’ve had plenty that are bad. This one was as it should be, snappy, very lightly salted, fresh. Then came the OMG tofu salad; a block of tofu on a bed of greens. Think best mozzarella you’ve ever had, soft yet firm when handled, melts when placed in your mouth. That’s what this tofu was like. Then the salmon. It’s not the farmed raised fatty salmon. It’s thinly sliced and rather lean. That means it’s got some chewiness to it, relatively speaking. And, very flavorful. Served with a wasabi that has wasabi stem bits mixed in. Nice addition of texture. Finally, the fried fish cake. Delicately breaded, well seasoned, perfectly fried. Nice crispness when biting it, nice chewy inside. Nabisco food scientists, the ones that measure every detail of the experience, would not have been dissatisfied. All washed down with a bottle of Coke, since, like practically all self-respecting Japanese restaurants, they don’t offer Diet Coke or Coke Zero. They only offer the real thing.

Returning back to the ryokan, I report to a delighted Toshi how delicious dinner was. He agrees. I expressed my concern for how little business they have and he agrees, but points out that they have a strong following amongst the local Japanese at lunchtime, on account of the chef’s homemade soba. What soba? Apparently, the day’s batch sells out. I’ll have to go there for lunch!

Toshi must have spoken to the chef. Because, the next evening, he reports there will be soba for dinner. It’s not like I have plans. Off I go. Hot soba with a duck and mushroom broth. The broth must be very fatty, as it sticks to the soba when dipped and withdrawn. I avoid consuming the fatty duck, but I’m sure the cholesterol damage is done. On the other hand, maybe not, on account of the Maitake mushrooms present.

“Maitake literally means dancing mushroom in Japanese (舞茸). Maitake is said to have medicinal properties as it is rich in antioxidants, vitamin B, vitamin C, copper, potassium, amino acids, beta-glucans, etc.
It also has cancer-fighting properties, as well as cholesterol reducing properties and also helps with type II diabetes.”

And, the Shimeji mushrooms,

“Shimeji mushroom is also a good source of protein making it a perfect ingredient for vegetarians. They also contain copper, B vitamins, potassium and zinc.”

https://favy-jp.com/topics/2622

This time, there was only one other guest, a foreign woman, by herself. I ask how she learned of Issei. She was referred by a staff member at her hotel.

Needless to say, it was great soba. I will have to return, and I do, for lunch. I hoped to find the place packed. But I arrived quite late, after 1:30; they close at 2. I had the cold soba and accompanied it with the local-salmon sashimi. Very gratifying.

I hope word spreads about Issei. It’s now on my list as one of the best Japanese restaurants in Hakuba, right up there with Koiya, an unagi restaurant.

https://www.hakubaissei.com/

 

[James]

Yum. Sounds delicious.
It's likely the salmon was from Norway.

http://www.2oceansvibe.com/2017/03/...ed-japan-that-salmon-could-be-a-sushi-option/

 

[karlo]

The next day, I hooked up with a group and we went up above Tsugaike Kogen resort. It’s an easy skin up a cat track to start, into terrain popular with summer hikers. In fact, there’s a tram that goes up there, and a number of huts, all open only in the summer. The day was warm and sunny. With 15-20 cm having fallen the previous day, fallen on, at least on sun exposed aspects, crust, we need to be wary. Well, as we top the ridge, two skiers across the way are knocked down by a small avalanche that they triggered themselves. Nate, our lead guide classifies it a 2. He goes to check it out, along with those of us who wish to go along. I don’t. Instead, I join our tail guide and three others, skiing back the way we came, down a mellow slope. Upon returning to the ridge, Nate and the others havechecked it out. The skiers at the avalanche are ok, no burials.

Nate and others go higher up and ski a somewhat sun exposed aspect, northeast to be exact. I’m happy to join the tail guide again, to ski what Nate previously skied. We all meet up below for lunch. Turns out, Alex, one who joined Nate further up triggered a small avalanche and, unbeknownst to him, had been chased by it.


Nothing life threatening. No risk of burial. But, I’m still glad to have skied the northern aspect left of the photo, in the shade.

We meet up for lunch,



After, we return to the ridge. Nate and the more adventurous group head up even higher on the ridge. I stay with our tail guide. We also go up the ridge with the intent of skiing Denkuhara (spelling?) which can be seen here, from where we turn around.



Remember this photo. I will return to it later, in another post, regarding a later day. But, at this point, I’m beginning to wonder how much farther we should go and whether or not it’s practical to reach our destination. I’ve left the main group and am with our tail guide. With us are two split boarders who’ve never skinned before. One is having a terribly difficult time, even when keeping his heels down. He’s planting his poles ahead of his feet; that doesn’t help on the steeper switchbacks; he doesn’t know kick turns. Then, since I decided to hang back and take up the rear, I notice he doesn’t have his lifters set. I guess not the entire day. Wow. And, I can’t figure out how to get them set. I don’t know split board gear. I call out and our tail guide comes back to help, then we continue on. But, he still struggles. At this point, I’m wondering. What if Denkuhara is reacheable in the time we have? How fun can it possibly be for him, and for his friend? I ask that they pass a query up to our tail guide, “when are we going to head down?” I guess that gets him thinking. A few minutes later, he stops and has us transition. We head back down.

The way back down is nice. Mellow terrain. Powdery. We get back to the cat tracks and ski in trees from one cat track traverse to another. I’m relieved we’re all having fun.

Another beautiful day. Comfortable temperature. Sunny. Nice powder. I’m looking forward to a nice dinner and a good rest. And, I’m looking forward to a day off from skinning, to ski in-resort at Happo-one, and to check out those Kore 93’s in a greater variety of terrain and conditions than at my lesson on that first day.