Fixing ski chips on car paint?

[Mendieta]

120 and 220 grit to get the rust off to bare metal and feather the edge. 400 and 600 grit to color-sand the first few coats and blend them into the existing finish. When you get to where you can almost be happy with it, and the built up paint is about level with the existing paint, hit it with 800 and (optional) 1200 grit. After 1200 grit you're in liquid polish territory.

Almost all problems that can happen can generally be traced to either not starting with a cleaned (degreased, dewaxed) or badly sanded surface, or to trying to rush things and glopping the paint in.

So, we are almost there! I applied all layers, and I definitely got to remove the rust and protect the doors. Awesome. I do need to ring the clear coat down to the same level as the rest (it is a little higher than surrounding areas, and a little irregular. I am thinking sanding with a high grit? Or should I use a rubbing compound? I used one of those paint kits like in @nay 's post above. It's been 24 hours since I applied the clear coat. Is cured enough for smoothing it out?

Thank you all for great suggestions!

 

[cantunamunch]

The clear coat is cured, the tradeoff now is smoothing vs. needing to reapply the finish coat.

How much leveling do you need? If it is obvious from most viewing angles, start with ~400 grit; make sure you use a backing block (not a finger ) Let the grit do the work - don't dig into it - leveling shouldn't take very long. Then take it up through the grits 600 - 800 - and so forth - until the irregularity is completely gone to your eye. You will need to reapply the last clear coat.

If the need to level is *not* obvious from most viewing angles, forget about leveling and just go to a 800-1200 grit to blend things in and then go to like Meguiar's polish. That way you may not have to reapply the clear coat.

Don't use rubbing compound - rubbing compound is for digging into your finish to chase out dirty stains.

 

[Mendieta]

The clear coat is cured, the tradeoff now is smoothing vs. needing to reapply the finish coat.

How much leveling do you need? If it is obvious from most viewing angles, start with ~400 grit; make sure you use a backing block (not a finger ) Let the grit do the work - don't dig into it - leveling shouldn't take very long. Then take it up through the grits 600 - 800 - and so forth - until the irregularity is completely gone to your eye. You will need to reapply the last clear coat.

If the need to level is *not* obvious from most viewing angles, forget about leveling and just go to a 800-1200 grit to blend things in and then go to like Meguiar's polish. That way you may not have to reapply the clear coat.

Don't use rubbing compound - rubbing compound is for digging into your finish to chase out dirty stains.

Thank you! Clearly visible. We standing, right?

 

[cantunamunch]

Sounds like it's going to bug you - so yes, sanding.

 

[oldschoolskier]

With the newer paints airbrush is definitely the way to go. For a small repair like this get touch up paint from the dealer, use the paint in a spray gun like this one https://m.harborfreight.com/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html .

Don’t forget to sand, prime and then paint. If you careful taping may not be required. Final wet sand, The spray on clear coat using same air brush.

Most importantly don’t drop the skis again they might get damaged.