Crayon approach to waxing

[patmoore]

For years I used the melt and drip method of applying wax but tried a different approach a while back and I've been happy with the results. Here's a short video showing the process. Some may question using a Horsehair Brush before Nylon but that's what Toko recommends these days. Please share your thoughts (pro or con).




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[Steve]

I’ve been using the Pro Glide (formerly Wax Whizzard) all season. No iron at all. Skis glide beautifully and structure is still like new. Crayon, rub in, horsehair than nylon.

 

[DanoT]

@Philpug has in the past demonstrated a technique involving crayoning the wax and then ironing, while placing Fibrelene or a heavy duty folded paper shop towel between the iron and the ski. There is no scrapping involved, just a rub down with a Scotch Pad, or brush or whatever you normally do, once the ski cools down.

Because there is no dripping, scrapping, or mess, I call this The Hotel Room Wax Method.

 

[PNWRod]

So my question is....nylon before horsehair or horsehair then nylon? It seems to me the horsehair after the brass brush is really effective and the nylon is merely meh.

 

[James]

Nylon = polishing

 

[Plai]

@Philpug has in the past demonstrated a technique involving crayoning the wax and then ironing, while placing Fibrelene or a heavy duty folded paper shop towel between the iron and the ski. There is no scrapping involved, just a rub down with a Scotch Pad, or brush or whatever you normally do, once the ski cools down.

Because there is no dripping, scrapping, or mess, I call this The Hotel Room Wax Method.

This is the method I've been doing for a while. I'm a recreational skier (weekend warrior) who only gets around 15 days/season, so don't have a demanding requirement for waxing perfection. Still using the same block of Hertel Hot Sauce for around 5 years now, and probably only 25% through the 3/4# block. Have 4-5 pairs of skis in the family and wax either after every trip or every two days, whichever comes first. I have brushes, but prefer the scotch pad.

YMMV. Good luck on your whatever you chose.

 

[cantunamunch]

Cold crayoning is fantastic for applying moly or graphite - loaded wax as the first wax after a grind or clean.

Corking is also a superbly aerobic spectator/drinking sport - just ask @jimmy about the arctic wax brandy sessions at Let's Go Colorado. Who needs a speed bag or an iron when you've got Toko green and three synthetic corks?

#150rpmforearms
#funkyspeedchicken

 

[crgildart]

Crayon rub and nothing else in the spring slush. Leaving it bumpy adds useful structure. Cork it down on colder days.

 

[EricG]

I’ve been using the crayon and iron technique this year. I have very little to scrape off after ironing, minimal waste. I use the roto-brush after scrapping and it has worked awesome. very quick process.

 

[crgildart]

Calling BS on the notion that ironing a super thin rubbed on coat of wax is less heat intensive on the bases than using the iron to spread out a thicker layer of dripped wax. Wasting wax yes, but having the entire iron less than a half mm off the bases all the way is no less damaging to the bases than ironing on a thicker coat even if the iron does bump a few places briefly where wax hasn't spread yet.

 

[Steve]

Just say no to the iron.

 

[patmoore]

Regarding the order of Horsehair and Nylon, Toko now recommends Horsehair first.

 

[CalG]

The base material can easily withstand the contact temperature of a wax iron set to melt but not burn ski wax.

But if you investigate carefully, you will discover that even a single molecular layer of liquid wax on the IRON surface will prevent direct iron to p-tex contact. And I DEFY you to remove that layer from the iron. 'Can't be done!

Horse? Meet cart.....

There is nothing to this method except the use of small pieces and some efficiency /economy.

 

[DanoT]

There is nothing to this method except the use of small pieces and some efficiency /economy.

Except that the OP's method involves less scrapping and if you use Phil's method with the Fibrelene or shop towel between ski and iron, that method soaks up some of the wax and then there is no scrapping.

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Only time I ever crayon is with really expensive wax that I don't want to waste.

 

[jimmy]

Brandy fueled corking.

Cold crayoning is fantastic for applying moly or graphite - loaded wax as the first wax after a grind or clean.

Corking is also a superbly aerobic spectator/drinking sport - just ask @jimmy about the arctic wax brandy sessions at Let's Go Colorado. Who needs a speed bag or an iron when you've got Toko green and three synthetic corks?

#150rpmforearms
#funkyspeedchicken

 

[cantunamunch]

Brandy fueled corking.

Hey, we were hitting some high rpm turbo boost.

 

[mdf]

Hey, we were hitting some high rpm turbo boost.

Afterburners?

 

[cantunamunch]

Afterburners?

Maybe, the steak & cab was pretty decent.

 

[Tom K.]

OK, first it was a revelation to realize that I apparently do NOT have the messiest garage in the world after all!

Second, crayoning harder waxes is pretty hard. Ha ha.

So......I clamp my heat gun in my second vise and use it to soften the wax. Works great. Uses less wax, and makes scraping easier.

I'd like to know what @Jacques thinks about this.