Binding mount question

[givethepigeye]

i have a line on a pair of skis. But they have been drilled once. I’m pretty partial to Pivots so would want to mount those. Looks like I’d have to move the toe back 5mm to ge the 1 cm ctc spacing. So, I’d end up -5cm o the line. I’m thinking this is no big deal on a 185cm ski and anyone less than WC isn’t going to notice 5mm. Thoughts?

 

[CalG]

did you type "-5cm o the line" and mean -5 mm?

cm are ten times a mm

 

[James]

Ski?

 

[givethepigeye]

Yes, 5mm, fat thumbs

 

[givethepigeye]

Ski?

Some fat fondue Swiss things

 

[CalG]

Yes, 5mm, fat thumbs

If you can tell the difference in a blind test of 5 mm binding placement difference, I would be impressed. In fact, you may even enjoy the difference.

 

[givethepigeye]

Ski?

Didn't want to jinx it - Stockli SR 115's

So...I actually got my precious “fondue” skis in hand. The info paper template I had was wrong, so stuck the jigarex on it and the heels on the Pivots would be about a 8mm distance c-t-c from the existing holes. I can't move the mount back - since it would make the distance even smaller, but I could go forward - no issue with the toes at all.

The choices to me are:

• Keep the demos on the ski (not really a long term solution in my mind - the bases basically take up 1/4 of the ski it seems like.) Put might be helpful in my tolerance for last solution below.
• Drill baby, drill! 8mm c-t-c is enough for a Swiss, handmade metal topsheet ski that somebody at my age isn't really going to rage on too hard - I do qualify for AARP - they are 115 wide powder skis anyway.
• do heli-coils (4 total) for the 2 each side that are close and call it good
• Just move the mount forward 2mm and suck it up buttercup - This is obviously the easiest, but to be honest I have never gotten on ski and said - wow, this would be so much better with the mount more forward.

Any thoughts on above? I am pretty sure I have a lean. BTW - the cost is not a factor on the Heli-coils, nor is the resale.

 

[Noodler]

Didn't want to jinx it - Stockli SR 115's

So...I actually got my precious “fondue” skis in hand. The info paper template I had was wrong, so stuck the jigarex on it and the heels on the Pivots would be about a 8mm distance c-t-c from the existing holes. I can't move the mount back - since it would make the distance even smaller, but I could go forward - no issue with the toes at all.

The choices to me are:

• Keep the demos on the ski (not really a long term solution in my mind - the bases basically take up 1/4 of the ski it seems like.) Put might be helpful in my tolerance for last solution below.
• Drill baby, drill! 8mm c-t-c is enough for a Swiss, handmade metal topsheet ski that somebody at my age isn't really going to rage on too hard - I do qualify for AARP - they are 115 wide powder skis anyway.
• do heli-coils (4 total) for the 2 each side that are close and call it good
• Just move the mount forward 2mm and suck it up buttercup - This is obviously the easiest, but to be honest I have never gotten on ski and said - wow, this would be so much better with the mount more forward.

Any thoughts on above? I am pretty sure I have a lean. BTW - the cost is not a factor on the Heli-coils, nor is the resale.

You're missing the "gift" in this situation. Use the current demo bindings to figure out your optimal binding position. Once you know that, then figure out how to get the replacement bindings on the ski without conflicting with the previous holes (although some conflicts or hole reuse isn't out of the question).

Note that you should compare the demo binding delta with the replacement binding. If they're radically different (more than 1mm) then that will impact your impression of the optimal binding location and must be considered.

 

[givethepigeye]

@Noodler Totally appreciate the demo “gift” see bullet one)

The challenge is I am a Pivot guy - I’m pretty sure they are going to be fine on the mark - which then I have a less than optimal 10mm spacing on the heel - if that really matters on a ski with quality cores and metal topsheet, plugged with wood dowels, expoxied in with slow cure. I’ve read (on the intrawebs, of course) of folks having overlapping holes on skis with metal and no issues. So, to question is more about the spacing of mount holes than anything.

I’m pretty confident the kids on TGR are a bit more rowdy than I am on their skis (overlapping hole reference above)

Demo bindings are Salomon warden 13’s, so won’t be using any existing holes

 

[jmeb]

If you plug with hardwood dowels and epoxy, you're almost good as new. The 10mm ctc is good practice, but it is based on a generic ski with a soft plastic plug. Personally I'd feel fine at 8mm c-t-c if they were hardwood dowels and slow cure epoxy. That is what your ski is made out of anyway.

I assume the close holes are in the toe and not the heel? Pivot pullouts are primarily heel related because people don't correctly retain the brakes and end up ovalizing the holes when screwing in.

Demo wardens are fantastic bindings. I'd get my mount point dialed with them before immediately re-drilling.

As to whether one will care about 5mm: depends so much on the skier that it neigh impossible to tell.

 

[givethepigeye]

@jmeb - unfortunately the heel (the two closest to the tail). I plan to ski them with the demos first. I know nothing about demo, but looks like the adjustments are in 8mm BSL increments so assume each click is worth 4mm? Some elasticity built in ?

I’m of the same camp on wood dowel, epoxy, esp on a quality core ski w/ metal. I think heli-coils would be overkill but totally valid as well

 

[Doug Briggs]

.5 cm is nothing. nor is 5 mm.

The Pivot has a very small range of adjustment. If you think you might want to move the toe into the existing holes for the toes, have the heels mounted a touch forward of where the jig would have you drill. This will help you get the range to mount the toes forward. Or not. After all, see above.

 

[Noodler]

@Noodler Totally appreciate the demo “gift” see bullet one)

The challenge is I am a Pivot guy - I’m pretty sure they are going to be fine on the mark - which then I have a less than optimal 10mm spacing on the heel - if that really matters on a ski with quality cores and metal topsheet, plugged with wood dowels, expoxied in with slow cure. I’ve read (on the intrawebs, of course) of folks having overlapping holes on skis with metal and no issues. So, to question is more about the spacing of mount holes than anything.

I’m pretty confident the kids on TGR are a bit more rowdy than I am on their skis (overlapping hole reference above)

Demo bindings are Salomon warden 13’s, so won’t be using any existing holes

I think you may have misunderstood my recommendation. I wasn't saying you should keep the demos on the skis. Only use them to determine where you really want to be on the skis. Then again, you may not be a "believer".

The factory line on the ski is meaningless to individual unique skiers. Use it as your starting point if you must, but you'll never know what's best for you unless you test multiple positions. Or you might just get lucky. Your call.

 

[givethepigeye]

@Noodler - yup, totally got what you were saying.

The point is on most traditional mount skis - the recommended line has been just fine, This includes, Kastle Fx104, the original Enforcer, the old Nordica Girish, dynastar legends, Blizzard Cochise, Stockli SR95, SR105, etc. the only ones I have ever found that I didn’t like the line were the “new” Enforcers and those Rustler 11s <- which also could be the tune but is a moot point now.

So, if I were a betting man, cough cough, I’m thinking the recommended line on these will be fine. Which then I have a little hole proximity I need to deal with....or not since 8mm seems reasonable spacing on these