Why does the base angle have so much influence to the grip of the edge?

[James]

I meant truy blank... not even a page number. You know... blank.

Can’t verify this, sounds right.-
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Well, to be strictly, pedantically, bibliographically accurate .. the blank leaf glued to the inside cover is called the 'pastedown', the blank leaf facing the pastedown is called the 'free endpaper' (the one at the front is the 'front free endpaper', often abbreviated to 'ffep'), the pastedown and free endpaper together are called the 'endpapers', any other blank leaves are called the 'flyleaves', and the whole lot together are called 'blanks'. In practice, however, the term 'flyleaves' is usually used to refer to any or all blank leaves.

John Carter's ABC for Book Collectors is a helpful guide to bibliographical terminology which can often help to answer questions like this. It was originally designed for antiquarian booksellers and collectors, but has come to be used more widely. You can download it for free as a pdf.
posted by verstegan at 1:31 PM on November 29, 2008
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Name of blank pages

Do the blank pages at the beginning and end of a book have a name?

ask.metafilter.com

 

[mdf]

I meant truy blank... not even a page number. You know... blank.

But if it's not labeled, how will we know that it is blank?

 

[James]

But if it's not labeled, how will we know that it is blank?

Maybe objects in a pass side mirror are exactly the distance one thinks they are. We’ve already made the conversion.

 

[François Pugh]

Do you read the blank page or skip it?

 

[mdf]

Do you read the blank page or skip it?

Its a Military Standard! You not only read it, you follow it in your work process!

 

[Seldomski]

From your reference:
I've been seeing pages like this for over 30 years now, and I still laugh.
"Fail! It's not blank!"
View attachment 107086

More of a dramatic pause, IMO.

 

[KingGrump]

You guys really need to get out more often.

 

[GlacierNovesia]

.5 deg base -> 4.8mm (3/16"). There is a deadband of 9.6 mm (3/8") of knee movement where the ski edge doesn't do much.
1 deg base -> 9.6mm (3/8"). There is a deadband of 19.2 mm (3/4") of knee movement where the ski edge doesn't do much.

Without deadband relaxed skiing is almost impossible. It is a hard job to have a ski with a burr or concaved base. But you must not double the values. From a neutral position you have to move your knees 5 mm every 0.5° (in case of small angles) before the hanging edge touches the snow.

Response time certainly has an influence. It remember me at the stick slip effect in mechanics. Once the ski has started to slip, it will be almost impossible to make him cut. The faster the edge can dig a snow wedge, the better the ski can carve

 

[Jacques]

Wow.......... Threads!

 

[oldschoolskier]

Without deadband relaxed skiing is almost impossible. It is a hard job to have a ski with a burr or concaved base. But you must not double the values. From a neutral position you have to move your knees 5 mm every 0.5° (in case of small angles) before the hanging edge touches the snow.

Response time certainly has an influence. It remember me at the stick slip effect in mechanics. Once the ski has started to slip, it will be almost impossible to make him cut. The faster the edge can dig a snow wedge, the better the ski can carve

The ability to ski relaxed with responsive skis is a learn skill of skiing neutral and balanced, you can’t do thus a responsive ski will punish you.

Another issue is that with modern ski the shape in itself (particularly those on the tighter radius’s) have a tendency to catch trailing edges as most skiers bias the balance slightly to the rear and to the inside edge. This combination leads to a slight catch in the back of the ski which causes over correction and transfer to the diagonal opposite edge, unfortunately without to correct weighting.....wipe out occurs here.

This simply is poor technique, poor balance and poor edge feel to various degrees. As such aggressively tuned skis will highlight your faults. Learn and adjust. You will be a better skier.

I am amazed that those that have tried my GS are usually punished in the first run (not as a result of speed but sloppy skiing) and when they switch back to thier own skis they ski better, cleaner and better defined skills.

Personally I would push towards the aggressive tunes just to encourage better skiing.

 

[Henry]

"Base angle determines, responsiveness to input. Here the smaller the number, the faster the response "
OldSchool wrote this a couple of pages back. I'm not disagreeing, just saying that I don't have fast reflexes, not. at. all., and I really like .7 & 3. I haven't tried .5°. I think it's mainly a matter of learning to be ready to have the ski grip so well so soon.

If one is burdened with packed-snow skis that have edges at 1/1 or 1/2, give a more acute angle a try. One way to ease into it is for the first year feather the front 1 foot of the tips and last 6" of the tails to a 1° base. The rest of the base can be at .7 or .75. The more acute edges will feel grippy. Well, yeah. You put them on their edges and "told" them to grip, so they did. Now the skier needs to catch up with the skis.

 

[oldschoolskier]

"Base angle determines, responsiveness to input. Here the smaller the number, the faster the response "
OldSchool wrote this a couple of pages back. I'm not disagreeing, just saying that I don't have fast reflexes, not. at. all., and I really like .7 & 3. I haven't tried .5°. I think it's mainly a matter of learning to be ready to have the ski grip so well so soon.

If one is burdened with packed-snow skis that have edges at 1/1 or 1/2, give a more acute angle a try. One way to ease into it is for the first year feather the front 1 foot of the tips and last 6" of the tails to a 1° base. The rest of the base can be at .7 or .75. The more acute edges will feel grippy. Well, yeah. You put them on their edges and "told" them to grip, so they did. Now the skier needs to catch up with the skis.

Many years ago a varition of this was called detune (which done the old way is basically round the first 6-8” for the tip and the 2-3” of the tail on straight skis which I never, never, ever did!). The effort required for variable base bevels far exceeds the benefits, even for most high level skiers. The risks include messing up your base bevels really bad greatly shortening your skis life as a base grind will be needed to fix it.

If you are unsure 1 base meets about. 90-95% of skiers needs.