Tyrolia Attack 13 mounting

[DonC]

I was just looking at how these were mounted (this was done a few weeks back) and was surprised that it looks like the contact point on the heel is really just where the screws go in. Obviously the plastic is just cosmetic, but I thought the contact between the metal rail and ski would be larger to better distribute pressure. Looking at the ski sideways, you can see right through on either side of the screw in points (see attached pic, I assume the white is just some excess glue). My curiosity would normally induce me to remove the heel piece and look but I don't have a PZ driver or glue on hand.
So is this right?

 

[GregK]

Have had 8 pairs of skis mounted with Attack 13 Bindings and most are not as “flush” with the plastic/metal rail area on the back of the binding as they are on the front. All of them are great on the toe piece but the rears are tougher to get flush.

None of mine are as bad as yours and I would agree that the white you are seeing is glue which is good as they are sealed properly. My advice is to bring back the bindings to the shop and have them loosen the 4 rear screws out carefully, add more glue to the 4 holes and try again. I found on ones I got from places that were almost as bad as yours that if I tighten them back down again with the 2 front screws of the rear piece just slightly in and not tight and then tightened the utmost rears screws down very tight first, I was able to get it more flush than if I did the front 2 screws on the rear tight first.

Know that many places don’t like the Attack 13 bindings as they are sometimes tough to get flush on the rears. Some go in perfectly flush and others some to be fussy and have to be loosened and re-tightened. The other thing is to make sure a Posi drive screwdriver is used they don’t strip the screws and can get enough torque to tighten them flush.

Good luck!

 

[DonC]

Thanks @GregK for this very useful information. This is my first set not mounted with Look bindings. I might be in the area of that shop at some point, but I think I can handle doing it myself with your advice. I really want them flush as possible- aside from safety, I prefer as low a ramp angle as possible.

 

[DonC]

I finally got around to removing the bindings and they were indeed not quite fully in. After scraping away all the extra glue I was able to get them seated better by following your advice to tighten down the rear fully before fully doing the front screws.

Thanks again @GregK.

 

[GregK]

Oh good! Glad you were able to make it more flush. Now you can ski without worry!

 

[Uncle-A]

I finally got around to removing the bindings and they were indeed not quite fully in. After scraping away all the extra glue I was able to get them seated better by following your advice to tighten down the rear fully before fully doing the front screws.

Thanks again @GregK.

When you had the binding off the ski did you notice if the holes were flat or if a small bit of top sheet was lifted by the screw? If the person mounting the binding does not tap the hole the screw will lift a bit of the top sheet and cause the binding not to sit flat on the ski. I have seen it many times that the binding tech thinks that the screws are self taping screws and it lifts a bit of the top sheet and the binding does not sit flat.

 

[DonC]

When you had the binding off the ski did you notice if the holes were flat or if a small bit of top sheet was lifted by the screw? If the person mounting the binding does not tap the hole the screw will lift a bit of the top sheet and cause the binding not to sit flat on the ski. I have seen it many times that the binding tech thinks that the screws are self taping screws and it lifts a bit of the top sheet and the binding does not sit flat.

The top sheet seemed fine but I didn't pass a straight edge over them to check. I could see very well defined threads in the metal layer under the top sheet. In any case, as per @GrerK's explanation, this was caused by the way the brake and the heel piece interlock, which results in the rear lifting up when the section with the brake is screwed down.

 

[PTskier]

I lightly countersink the screw holes after tapping. That small amount of raised top material will hold the binding a bit above the ski.

Do ski shop techs actually tap the screw holes? I know they should if there is a metal layer, and it's best even if there's no metal, but do they tap them?

 

[Uncle-A]

I lightly countersink the screw holes after tapping. That small amount of raised top material will hold the binding a bit above the ski.

Do ski shop techs actually tap the screw holes? I know they should if there is a metal layer, and it's best even if there's no metal, but do they tap them?

When I was working in the business I did but I know some that did not. It does take a little extra time to do it that way and you know what they say "Time is Money". The drill bits that are purchased from the binding companies are made to fit in the drilling jigs have a slight bevel on them, it is not a counter sink but they do smooth the top surface a little. Driving a screw without tapping can lift a bit of a burr so I think if you can tap them why not do it.

 

[oswaldr2]

I have a pair of Attack2’s that I want to screw into some old attack holes. I’m missing one of the brake screws, I’ve been able to figure out it’s an 18mm lowhead screw. Is it an M5 width? Can I just get one at a hardware store?

 

[Philpug]

I have a pair of Attack2’s that I want to screw into some old attack holes. I’m missing one of the brake screws, I’ve been able to figure out it’s an 18mm lowhead screw. Is it an M5 width? Can I just get one at a hardware store?

Some of the screws are pretty proprietary, might be tough. If you have a local shop that is good, they should have boxes of screws that they can match up.

 

[Uncle-A]

I would not go to a hardware store, chances are slim that they would have it. I agree with @Philpug stop at some local ski shop and talk to the tech guy, I bet he has a junk box with the screw you need. If it is your regular shop he may just give it to you.