Tuning Order of Operations

[Steve]

Now, go to eBay and order a 10mm acrylic square bar. Yep, how to use your Skivisions as a hardwax scraper.

Do these get dull and can you sharpen them, or do you just turn them 3 times and then replace?

 

[Doug Briggs]

I'm guessing since I haven't used one, but I'd guess you can sharpen it just like a regular acrylic scraper. Hold it square to a piece of sandpaper (or file) and move it back and forth.

 

[cantunamunch]

Yup, all there is to it. I use the pansar.

 

[Doug Briggs]

I like the pansar for that, too.

 

[Steve]

Yeah well ever since I bought my electric scraper sharpener I've never looked back. Used to keep a panzar screwed to my bench and thought it got my scrapers sharp. There's no comparison, the edges I get now peel waxes hard and soft so much better.

I can't see getting those pieces in it, but still like the idea.

 

[KingGrump]

If you are using a Mantac then no need for the 10 mm acrylic square bar.
But if you insist just for the hell of it. You can always rig the rod in a jig and pass it over a 6" jointer.
Just make sure the rod is clamped and secured. Same concept as the Mantac. Just on a larger scale.

Definitely more powerful power tools on this one.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Yeah well ever since I bought my electric scraper sharpener I've never looked back. Used to keep a panzar screwed to my bench and thought it got my scrapers sharp. There's no comparison, the edges I get now peel waxes hard and soft so much better.

I can't see getting those pieces in it, but still like the idea.

We have one of those jointer type scraper sharpeners at the shop, a Ski Man Wax Scraper Sharpener. It is very easy to end up with a scraper that isn't straight with the electric sharpeners as well as the sharpeners you use by drawing them along the edge of the scraper. The problem with the electric one is the length of the in and out

I prefer sandpaper or Pansar file as they keep the sharpened edge straight. A sharp scraper that isn't straight just doesn't do the same job as a sharp straight scraper.

While scrapers aren't pricey, I can use and sharpen a single scraper with a file and keep it for a season. Also don't forget there are four edges to an acrylic scraper. If you don't rotate them around you aren't getting the full use of your scraper.

 

[Dwight]

Basically my electric scraper sharpener.

 

[Wolfski]

Basically my electric scraper.

Brilliant, I've been using a Pansar on the bench for the initial sharpen and then a bastard to get a fine sharp final edge on mine. I find that only using the Pansar the scrapers will develop a small scallop pattern that gets worse and worse.
Never thought of using my Joiner for this and I have a quiver of scrapers waiting to be sharpened

 

[Dwight]

I make my own, so this was the easiest way for me to sharpen and make square.

 

[KingGrump]

Never thought of using my Joiner for this and I have a quiver of scrapers waiting to be sharpened

Be very careful with a jointer set up. The scrapers are very short for a machine that size.
Another quick and safer method to sharpen a plastic scraper is a router in a router table, straight bit with a fence set at a 1/32" offset.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Basically my electric scraper sharpener.

Nice. With infeed and outfeed tables longer than your scraper you'd have a hard time ending up with a scraper that wasn't straight. The problem with the ski scraper specific ones is that they infeed and outfeed are quite short so unless you are very careful to keep the scraper properly pressed into the device without rocking the scraper, you get less than ideal results. The problems I've had with our Ski Man may come from never having serviced the blade(s). I'll continue to use sandpaper and file and the occasional belt sander (not the ski one, but the table top model for shaping footbeds). It is fun to see how long I can keep a single scraper in use. I made it through last year quite readily and will get a good ways into this season with one scraper. "My 'precious'"

 

[Dwight]

Be very careful with a jointer set up. The scrapers are very short for a machine that size.
Another quick and safer method to sharpen a plastic scraper is a router in a router table, straight bit with a fence set at a 1/32" offset.

Like with all power tools, safety first.

 

[Wilhelmson]

A family of 4 skiing early season woods in the northeast means you'll have to touch up at least one base edge.

Unless the skis are screwed it's a wast of time getting a grind.when next week somebody is bound to hit a rock again. While I let the shop set the base after a grind, a medium diamond stone with the right guide has worked for me without wrecking the angle.

Just watch Jacques episode # 452. Around minute 128 he has wiped the ski down 425 times and proceeds to debur the base edge ever so lightly with a well worn stone. He's got some good stuff, this morning I burnished my paint scraper with a chainsaw file.

 

[Jacques]

Just watch Jacques episode # 452. Around minute 128 he has wiped the ski down 425 times and proceeds to debur the base edge ever so lightly with a well worn stone. He's got some good stuff, this morning I burnished my paint scraper with a chainsaw file.

OMG That's funny!

 

[Monster]

For wax scrapers, I like 1/4" Lexan. Non-resonant material that takes a clean edge. Best tool in the shop for sharpening them seems to be a Stanley smooth-plane (hand plane), very sharp and well-tuned.

 

[Uncle-A]

If I didn't work at a shop (that is about to get the Scout), I'd consider the SkiVisions tool. I've heard a lot of good about it.

Late to this thread but what type of stone is that or is it some type of belt?

 

[Monster]

Stone wheel.

 

[Kneale Brownson]

FWIW I would sell all my files and learn to fix core shots if I lived out West. YMMV.

dm

You'd be replacing the files after the first dry spell.