Trying out racing skis. Need advice

[OldJeep]

They are 183's I believe. I got them at a swap our HS team puts on at Pinewski's in Oct.

$50. I couldn't say no. Figured if I don't like them I'll sell them next year for $50 and use them for the year for free.

My long term goal is to demo new racing skis from joe's sports to be able to try something before I buy it. Thinking something with a 16-18 Radius.

183's are plenty long. Beer league GS skis don't really get any longer than that.

 

[trailtrimmer]

They are 183's I believe. I got them at a swap our HS team puts on at Pinewski's in Oct.

$50. I couldn't say no. Figured if I don't like them I'll sell them next year for $50 and use them for the year for free.

My long term goal is to demo new racing skis from joe's sports to be able to try something before I buy it. Thinking something with a 16-18 Radius.

You got them cheap, pocket money left for a tune. 183 will be fine unless you are over 230-240lbs, even then you can still get a lot out of it.

Put a .75/3 or 1/3 on them, address the bindings and ski the hell out of them.

 

[focker]

I check if a ski has a 3 on the side by marking the edge with a black sharpie and then running my stone fairly lightly down the edge to see if it remove the whole mark.

Is that an ok way to do this?

I have no way to check the base bevel other than to bring them in.

 

[ScotsSkier]

I check if a ski has a 3 on the side by marking the edge with a black sharpie and then running my stone fairly lightly down the edge to see if it remove the whole mark.

Is that an ok way to do this?

I have no way to check the base bevel other than to bring them in.

It is one way to do a rough check and will be ok for what you has in them. You would be surprised the amount of variance you see when you apply a bevel meter though.

I would suggest you work more on technique first. These skis should be driven from the tip, with a 90/10 pressure distribution most of the time. I would advise against moving the binding forward at this stage. Would be more likely to keep you skiing centered rather than driving the tip. Apart from pressuring properly the shins in the front of the boot, make sure your hips are also keeping forward. Too often people think theya are pressuring the shins when at the same time they are dropping their hips and a$$ in the back seat and losing all the pressure. Think also body square downhill using counter from the waist as the skis come across the hill.

 

[Swede]

If your boots are bigger than the previous owners and you just moved the heel piece back, you’re probably off center. Fischer normally have Tyrolia Free Flex bindings. If they are on a plate with predrilled positions (which is the norm), easy as pie. You need to check that the toe piece is in the right position for your boot sole length and that the center of the boot (usually a line) alignes with the center of the ski (usually, surprise, a line). Then adjust heel piece until forward pressure is correct.

 

[Swede]

double post