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RachelV

I run TheSkiDiva.com and work at OpenSnow.
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A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to spend a week at Points North Heli-Adventures, an operation in Cordova, AK, that is owned and operated by Tahoe locals Kevin Quinn and Jessica Sobolowski-Quinn.

Short version: IT WAS AMAZING. Totally surreal. Best week ever.

IMG_3453.JPG 12472620_10154017988463805_580868663892000975_n.jpg

Longer version:

There were a bunch of reasons I picked PNH.
  1. I wanted to go to Alaska and experience that terrain versus that of the Canadian Rockies.
  2. I wanted a place with a more laid-back vibe than a luxury resort.
  3. I wanted to be as frugal as possible while still going heliskiing (ha).
  4. I’d skied with Jess before and had a great time, and trusted her to match me up with a good group.
PNH was great, and exactly what I was looking for. The lodge is bare bones but nice enough. The common area where you eat and hang out on down days feels like summer camp, with big long communal dining tables, a foosball table, ping pong, and a TV well stocked with ski movies. The food is delicious, simple comfort food, and they feed you a ton of it. Best of all, the guests were some of the most interesting, accomplished, and humble people I’ve ever met — a totally awesome cross-section of super-enthusiastic skiers including a female fighter pilot, a “yacht mechanic to a Russian oligarch” (his exact words), tons of small business owners, the Warren Miller film crew, and a base jumper who was the most continuously psyched person I’ve ever met.

IMG_3446.JPG IMG_3444.JPG

The downside of Alaska is that you really have to deal with weather. When you buy a week at PNH (trips run Saturday -- Saturday), you pay for 4 heli hours, which roughly equates to three big days of skiing. It’s pretty rare to need more than that. My week (Week 8) skied 2.5 days, with one day where we didn’t get back until after 5 p.m. Week 6 didn’t get to ski at all, which is quite rare but also particularly brutal (PNH does credit you for unused heli hours at the end of your trip). Week 9 got four amazing bluebird days, which is pretty much the best-case scenario. So, you’re going to have some down days to deal with.

On your down days, you can:
  1. Hike! We did a glacier hike into a crazy ice cave that was really, really cool. Note: it will probably be raining while you hike, which is why you’re not skiing.
  2. Bike or walk to town! Stop at the place on the side of the road where the bald eagles swoop down and eat fish. Surprisingly entertaining.
  3. Ski from the town lift! Unfortunately not an option this year as the weather was unusually warm and there was no snow at sea level. PNH had a really odd season in general, weather-wise.
  4. Go to the bar! Popular option.
  5. Play ping pong with the Australians!
  6. Do laundry!
You get the idea. If you’re the kind of person that can’t handle down days, Alaska is probably not the place for you.

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However, the upside of Alaska is that when you get to ski, you’re magically transported via helicopter into the middle of the most unreal, mind-blowing terrain you’ve ever seen. I’d been in a helicopter before, and it in no way prepared me for how awesome it is to fly through the Chugach, swoop around a peak, and get dropped off on a ridge that’s straight out of a ski movie. Anytime anything was happening that involved skiing or helicopters, I had to pinch myself to be sure it was real.

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As far as the actual skiing goes, I think our conditions were average. About half of our skiing time was kind of overcast, which really limits where the helis can land; visibility is obviously very important, and the pilots were only willing to fly to one small area on our first day out. It was also warm, so in general the top parts of our runs were amazing snow, and then the lower sections got heavy and manky pretty quickly. Conditions were also really sloughy, which I admittedly don’t have much experience with, but some people were saying they were skiing more conservatively as a result.

IMG_3410.JPG

The good news is, I was so psyched to be in Alaska for the first time that I really didn’t care. Even on an average day, skiing in Alaska for the first time is a pretty surreal experience. The terrain is huge and looks like it goes on forever. The snow really does feel like velvet, and sticks to faces that wouldn’t be skiable anywhere else. You can ski lines that would be off limits due to avy danger in any other snowpack. To top it all off, there’s a helicopter that whisks you to the top of peak after peak so you can ski untracked lines over and over again. If you need perfect conditions to have fun under those circumstances, I feel like you should consider hanging up your skis.

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I also genuinely didn’t want to push my limits on this trip; I just wanted to have the experience of skiing in that terrain, which I absolutely did. It was definitely a little intimidating to be in terrain that’s clearly so BIG, and so remote. Dealing with slough was also a challenge for me, since it turns out my preferred skiing speed is the exact speed at which my slough would catch me and knock me over. After getting bumped by my slough just hard enough to lose a ski, and then taking 20 minutes to find it and put it back on like a total gaper, I started taking the “take two turns and let your slough pass you” approach, which is very effective, but also makes for very boring GoPro videos.

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In general, our guide (Silverton local and guide Kim Grant) would ski first, get down to a good stopping point, and then radio back up to us with whatever information we needed. Kim, while being a total badass who spent 8 years guiding on Denali in addition to many other impressive alpine accomplishments, had the sweetest vibe. The walkie talkie would crackle, and you’d hear something like, “Hey, Rachel? It’s really sloughy, hun. Stay left of my tracks, and when you pass out of the shade you’ll see kind of a dimple — stay right, that’s a crevasse. Be safe, and have a great time!” At the end of the week she gave me a huge hug and told me I did A GREAT JOB (I didn’t do that great a job). I loved her.

IMG_3463.JPG

I have a few GoPro videos, both from some of the more chill terrain we did, that give an idea of what the skiing was actually like. The video where I’m scared of my slough is kind of embarrassing, because, man, I am squandering some good turns -- but it does show how little it takes to get a good amount of snow moving. I did have moments where I was less scared of my slough and actually made some decent turns like a competent skier.

IMG_3415.JPG

Overall, I really can’t speak highly enough of the whole experience. I’m definitely going to try to get back in a few years, this time with the intention of pushing myself a bit and skiing some more committing terrain. I can only hope the weather cooperates, but if not, I’ve got some ping pong to play, some bald eagles to watch, and an excuse to try again.
 
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Monique

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told me I did A GREAT JOB (I didn’t do that great a job).

Hard on yourself much?

Thank you for sharing both videos. They aren't kidding when they say skiing is all mental. It's interesting to see it in action, as opposed to experiencing it in my head ;-)

I've had a few scenarios where I lost skis and needed help finding them, and it took a solid half hour. Do not want. Did you consider taking powder ribbons for this trip? (I own them, but I never do attach them, which makes them the most useless piece of ski equipment I own.)
 

KevinF

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What did you use for skis? Did you bring your own or do they just tell you to leave yours behind?
 
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RachelV

RachelV

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Did you consider taking powder ribbons for this trip? (I own them, but I never do attach them, which makes them the most useless piece of ski equipment I own.)

No one had them. It took me a few minutes to figure out why, but there's no way the guides would stand for having those flapping around and getting in the way when they're loading & unloading the heli. They give you straps like this to bundle your skis and poles into one surprisingly well secured unit, and then the guide can get everyone's stuff in & out of the gear basket way more easily. Having powder ribbons potentially getting tangled up in everything would not fly (har har).
 
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RachelV

RachelV

I run TheSkiDiva.com and work at OpenSnow.
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What did you use for skis? Did you bring your own or do they just tell you to leave yours behind?

I rented Volkl Ones from them. I'd guess more than half of the guests brought their own skis, but PNH recommends something at least 115 underfoot, and I don't own anything that fat. I sent an email a few weeks before the trip asking if I could bring my own 102 early rise powder skis, since I neeeever ski anything in the 115 area, and Jess's reply was basically "lol, no, that's not fat enough". :) The Ones definitely did not feel like a 115 underfoot ski, but I also only used them to make 1000 perfect turns in wonderful snow so I can't really judge them accurately. ;)

PNH does charge $40 per day to rent skis from them, and $40 per day if you want to rent an airbag backpack, which I thought was pretty nickel-and-dime-y considering what you're paying for the trip. They must have a reason for doing it that way, but I'd rather they just charge you an extra $150 up front than give you ANOTHER bill when you check out. It's especially odd because those are the only things that aren't included... food, all the down day activities, using PNH beacons and harnesses, etc etc etc -- all included.
 

Monique

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No one had them. It took me a few minutes to figure out why, but there's no way the guides would stand for having those flapping around and getting in the way when they're loading & unloading the heli. They give you straps like this to bundle your skis and poles into one surprisingly well secured unit, and then the guide can get everyone's stuff in & out of the gear basket way more easily. Having powder ribbons potentially getting tangled up in everything would not fly (har har).

Well, I mean, the powder straps I have wouldn't flap because they're collected into a little velcro thingie until they deploy. I would imagine I'd keep them in my pocket and then attach them to the bindings and stuff them up my pant leg when I put on my skis. ... But I never have had them with me when they would have been helpful, so I really can't talk.

Love all the photos!
 

James

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Great photos!
Is there a convention for making tracks or is it staying near the guides' and the natural figure 8 tendency people have? Seems like lots of crossing tracks.
 

fatbob

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Yeah second video is the business. Wouldn't be too hard on yourself on the first - clowns like me would have been blundering in, taking a slough assisted digger and ragdolling.
 
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RachelV

RachelV

I run TheSkiDiva.com and work at OpenSnow.
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PNH does charge $40 per day to rent skis from them, and $40 per day if you want to rent an airbag backpack, which I thought was pretty nickel-and-dime-y considering what you're paying for the trip. They must have a reason for doing it that way, but I'd rather they just charge you an extra $150 up front than give you ANOTHER bill when you check out.

Jess pointed out that this is because most people bring their own skis, and airbags aren't strictly necessary, so they'd rather keep the cost as cheap as possible overall and charge for the things that really are extra. Fair. :)
 
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RachelV

RachelV

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Great photos!
Is there a convention for making tracks or is it staying near the guides' and the natural figure 8 tendency people have? Seems like lots of crossing tracks.

Our guide definitely told us where to ski. Sometimes she'd tell us to stack left or right of her tracks, sometimes she'd tell us to stay between 2 landmarks, sometimes she'd make big Z-shaped ski cuts to bleed off slough and tell us to stay inside the Z, etc.

Personally, when the terrain got a little flatter I thought it was suuuuuuper fun to cross other tracks, because the snow was the perfect consistency that you could pop off the tracks a little bit and make really playful turns. Also, yes, figure 8s are fun. :) But I'd say many of the crossed tracks are due to trying to stay within the constraints the guide gave us.
 

ScotsSkier

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A



The downside of Alaska is that you really have to deal with weather. When you buy a week at PNH (trips run Saturday -- Saturday), you pay for 4 heli hours, which roughly equates to three big days of skiing. It’s pretty rare to need more than that. My week (Week 8) skied 2.5 days, with one day where we didn’t get back until after 5 p.m. Week 6 didn’t get to ski at all, which is quite rare but also particularly brutal (PNH does credit you for unused heli hours at the end of your trip). Week 9 got four amazing bluebird days, which is pretty much the best-case scenario. So, you’re going to have some down days to deal with.

On your down days, you can:
  1. Hike! We did a glacier hike into a crazy ice cave that was really, really cool. Note: it will probably be raining while you hike, which is why you’re not skiing.
  2. Bike or walk to town! Stop at the place on the side of the road where the bald eagles swoop down and eat fish. Surprisingly entertaining.
  3. Ski from the town lift! Unfortunately not an option this year as the weather was unusually warm and there was no snow at sea level. PNH had a really odd season in general, weather-wise.
  4. Go to the bar! Popular option.
  5. Play ping pong with the Australians!
  6. Do laundry!
You get the idea. If you’re the kind of person that can’t handle down days, Alaska is probably not the place for

However, the upside of Alaska is that when you get to ski, you’re magically transported via helicopter into the middle of the most unreal, mind-blowing terrain you’ve ever seen. I’d been in a helicopter before, and it in no way prepared me for how awesome it is to fly through the Chugach, swoop around a peak, and get dropped off on a ridge that’s straight out of a ski movie. Anytime anything was happening that involved skiing or helicopters, I had to pinch myself to be sure it was real.

.

Aint this the truth! This is what is never mentioned when it is being sold but is very much a fact of life in Alaska. I came out from the UK in 1995 fro a week to ski with Coombs and Conway in Valdez and we were only able to fly 2.5 days out of 7. Spent a lot of time skiing down Thomson pass with on of our group driving us up in the van and picking us up at the bottom. Fortunately at that stage it was very much an a al carte operation so we were paying by the flight.. Cat skied one day in an ancient small Cat that held 4 inside and 2 of us stood on the back! Also managed to explore most of the hostelries in Valdez.... :)

But, as you say, still one of the most incredible experiences. My favorite memory was on on one of the LZs there was a 25ish foot drop onto the slope. Jim Conway, our guide, lowered the other 3 guys in our group down, then turned to me and asked if I just wanted to go for it.....:) Did i???? So I dropped in and just kept making turns for about 1500 vertical - still one of the most memorable runs of my life...
 

Monique

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But, as you say, still one of the most incredible experiences. My favorite memory was on on one of the LZs there was a 25ish foot drop onto the slope. Jim Conway, our guide, lowered the other 3 guys in our group down, then turned to me and asked if I just wanted to go for it.....:) Did i???? So I dropped in and just kept making turns for about 1500 vertical - still one of the most memorable runs of my life...
:eek:

That definitely sounds amazing for the person who has the skills to do it :)
 

ScotsSkier

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:eek:

That definitely sounds amazing for the person who has the skills to do it :)

:) Not sure I necessarily had the skills, but once he gave me the opportunity it was hard to back out with my buddies standing below. I will admit to cra**ing myself a bit when i launched! :eek: but once I made the landing seemed a shame to not just keep going!

Oh and this was on a pair of 207 race stock GS...:daffy:
 

Tricia

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:) Not sure I necessarily had the skills, but once he gave me the opportunity it was hard to back out with my buddies standing below. I will admit to cra**ing myself a bit when i launched! :eek: but once I made the landing seemed a shame to not just keep going!

Oh and this was on a pair of 207 race stock GS...:daffy:
That was a powder ski, back in the day.
 

Philpug

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I remember cat skiing in Alaska back in 95. No pictures can do Alaska justice...it is big. My one day of skiing was a rare blueburd day and we coudl see Denali off in the distance...hundreds of miles away...it just dwarfed the horizon. Alaska is big. As Warren Miller would say, If you don't go to Alaska this year, you will only be one year older when you do.
 
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RachelV

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Aint this the truth! This is what is never mentioned when it is being sold but is very much a fact of life in Alaska. I came out from the UK in 1995 fro a week to ski with Coombs and Conway in Valdez and we were only able to fly 2.5 days out of 7. Spent a lot of time skiing down Thomson pass with on of our group driving us up in the van and picking us up at the bottom. Fortunately at that stage it was very much an a al carte operation so we were paying by the flight.. Cat skied one day in an ancient small Cat that held 4 inside and 2 of us stood on the back! Also managed to explore most of the hostelries in Valdez.... :)

But, as you say, still one of the most incredible experiences. My favorite memory was on on one of the LZs there was a 25ish foot drop onto the slope. Jim Conway, our guide, lowered the other 3 guys in our group down, then turned to me and asked if I just wanted to go for it.....:) Did i???? So I dropped in and just kept making turns for about 1500 vertical - still one of the most memorable runs of my life...

That sounds awesome -- how cool to get to take a heli trip during that era with Doug Coombs. You have any pics or anything floating around?
 

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