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Arizona/New Mexico Taos, NM - A True Classic

dean_spirito

Freestyle Ski Coach
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Breckenridge, CO
We recently packed the car and headed down to Taos in search of that good white powder. The mountain had been getting slammed by some really aggressive spring storms and word on the street was that the conditions were all time. With talk of another potentially significant storm moving through the area, it seemed like the 4.5hr drive from Summit would be well worth it.

As we rolled into town on Monday afternoon, we decided to make a pit stop at the Taos Mesa Brewery to fill a growler with some local suds. We then proceeded to drive north of town to hit the John Dunn springs for a quick soak. Upon arriving at the springs, we were surprised to find that the water was almost as cold as our beer! The river had risen so rapidly from the previous storm that it flooded the springs. Although there was some initial disappointment that we couldn't soak, it was a clear indication that northern NM had been receiving some serious precipitation.

We opted to stay in the Ski Valley to be close to the action. The forecast called for some moderate to heavy snow overnight. After a wonderful dinner at ACEQ in Arroyo Seco, we drove up the canyon road and checked into our humble abode. We unloaded the car, settled into our condo, and began passing around the ULLR. Moments later, the snow guns turned on. In a serious way.

We awoke to a TSV that could proudly boast a 100" base on March 28th, a most righteous accomplishment. The snow was soft and the skiing was stellar! Coverage on the mountain was like nothing I'd ever seen before. I simply couldn't get over how filled in the place was! With the sun shining on our faces, we decided to start the first day off right with a hike to the Highline Ridge.


Billy Sol was largely untracked and skied like a dream. We dropped the cornice and immediately charged into the trees where we found cold, winter snow! The runout got a little heavier, particularly in the areas that were getting sun. But all things considered, it was a pretty solid way to start the day!

We then skied down to Chair 4. We heard that the Kachina Lift would most likely start turning around 10am, so we rushed over to get first tracks on the peak. After a 15 minute wait, the chair started spinning and we headed up. I drooled the entire lift ride, fantasizing about the untracked lines I would ski.




Literally, some of the greatest turns of my life! So great, that I'm not even going to waste time here trying to come up with words to describe something so blissfully indescribable.

We finished out the morning lapping the peak and then headed back to the frontside for a quick lunch at Tim's. The frito pie was delish and the Bloody Maria with Patron paired perfectly.

The afternoon was spent lapping Chair 2 and skiing the upper frontside. West Blitz, Reforma, Winston, Pollux, and Castor all skied wonderfully. So well, in fact, that we decided to hang out for sweep so that we could snag one last run after 4pm. I signed us up for Al's, a true Taos classic. A wet fog moved in just as we departed PHQ and started our descent towards the lower frontside; Bambi, Zagava, and then on to Al's. The snow definitely got more springlike as we descended toward the base, but the big, soft bumps were a real treat for our last run of the day.

We decided to start our second day on the lower frontside. Rhoda's was largely untracked at 9:45am, so we opted to lay a few through there to warmup. The legs were definitely a little tired from the previous days escapades, but the snow was begging to be torn up! On our second ride up Chair 1, we bumped into patrol as they were getting ready to drop the rope on Ernie's and North American. We broke trail and were the first into Ernie's after it had been closed for 3 days. Glorious snow and perfectly spaced trees made for a truly magical moment. Let us all take a deep breath and reflect.....


The rest of the morning was spent hiking West Basin. Stauffenberg, Zdarsky, and St. Bernard skied as well as ever. They were so filled in that they didn't feel nearly as steep as I know they are. Absolutely unreal.

After a quick lunch at the Bavarian, we grabbed our gear and headed back towards the Kachina chair. They had just started spinning the lift when we got there and we managed to get to the top while there were still freshies to be had. Kachina definitely tracked out faster than it did the previous day, but the snow was just so good that it didn't matter.


We lapped Kachina until they closed the chair and then did a quick 7 to 7A for our final hike of the trip.


We took our time as we climbed up to Juarez, enjoying the views and the perfect weather. As we reached the top, the clouds parted and the sun shined bright. We started our descent at a little after 4pm, giving the mountain a moment to clear out so we could enjoy a peaceful return to the Bavarian. With the whole mountain to ourselves, we took one last look around, said thank you to ULLR, and pointed it to the bottom.

Taos Bro!
 
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SkiNurse

Spontaneous Christy
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:drool:
 

skifastDDS

AKA doublediamond223
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Greater Boston
I was at Taos last week right as the huge two foot+ storm hit. They badly needed the snow, as there were a lot of bare spots and free base grinds on the brown catwalks beforehand. The power going out in the valley for the 24 hours around the storm made things a bit of a challenge, however. It was past 1pm before patrol was able to get chair 1 open last Friday, and it was the heaviest snow I've ever seen as it warmed north of 40 and the sun hit it.
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52" pole, for reference
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It got cold on Friday night and a lot of moisture came out of the snow. Saturday morning was epic. I hiked the ridge and skied Stauffenberg, as the backside and Kachina were still closed.
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It was a great trip, and instead of buying lift tickets I bought a $350 Zia pass that is also good for the 2018 season, upgradeable to a mountain collective for another $100. Amazing deal, the competition with the epic pass is a win for skiers.
 

Jerez

Skiing the powder
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Nice photos of Stauffie, SBrown and Skifastdds. The camera usually flattens things out, but you actually made it look as steep as it is. Those waist-deep mashed potatoes on Al's looked pretty horrid though!
 

Phelmut

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That is some steeeeeep terrain. I think I would struggle less in the mashed taters.
 

skifastDDS

AKA doublediamond223
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Nice photos of Stauffie, SBrown and Skifastdds. The camera usually flattens things out, but you actually made it look as steep as it is. Those waist-deep mashed potatoes on Al's looked pretty horrid though!

That is some steeeeeep terrain. I think I would struggle less in the mashed taters.
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It's quite steep, and I found a few areas of the refrozen ice surface underneath the pow. Skiing the whole thing in icy conditions would have been pretty hair-raising. I'd take that any day over the previous day's mashed potatoes though. The first run on Al's when I got off the ~20th chair was a struggle; I pretty much failed to ski it. My tip caught in a mogul trough, after which I front flipped / heel ejected and had to hike up and do a grid search for my buried ski. Big piece of humble pie for sure. I quit after three runs out of fear for my knees.

Waking up to this on Friday made everyone happy.
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pete

not peace but 2 Beers!
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simply amazing pics .... all! nice!
 

crgildart

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That photo of Al's and all the carnage below said it all hahahaha..
 

James

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It got cold on Friday night and a lot of moisture came out of the snow. Saturday morning was epic. I hiked the ridge and skied Stauffenberg, as the backside and Kachina were still closed.

It was a great trip, and instead of buying lift tickets I bought a $350 Zia pass that is also good for the 2018 season, upgradeable to a mountain collective for another $100. Amazing deal, the competition with the epic pass is a win for skiers.

Thanks for all the Taos reports and photos. Love Taos!
Went there once for a week late season in 2000. Stayed at the Abominable Snow Mansion down the road. Getting there was the longest solo drive I've ever done. Kind of crazy. I drove from north of Houston, after coming down from nyc a few days before. It was supposed to be a trip with my girlfriend but she hurt her knee and decided not to go. So I took the car... That was long before mapquest and google maps. I didn't really consult the map because I was going anyway and how far could it be? 350-400 miles? No problem. Well... The scale on a Texas map is a little different. It was basically 1,000 miles to Taos. In west Texas where it's so flat you wonder if the earth maybe really is flat, I set the cruise control to 104. I mean under 90 you feel you'll starve to death before reaching food that's not moving. That trip was 17 or 18 hours with maybe 1 1/2 hrs stopping. I had to get there to be ready to ski Sunday morning. Start of the Ski Week.

image.jpeg

Your photo above brings back memories. I remember that traverse out the first time. Holy cow, suddenly I had to think if I could really do a wedge turn reliably. It was shocking I wondered that but this was a whole new game. The closet feeling to that is skiing on top of a half pipe the first time where one side is 20 ft down and the other is icy snow boulders. Makes you really think about simple turns you take for granted.

That cornice in the picture was the first cornice I ever went off. For some reason I had assumed one had to ski off a cornice straight down hill. On that one it would be pretty ballsy to launch straight down into the steep moguls below. Plus rocks. Maybe people do it, but good lord, way beyond me at the time. Then the guy I was skiing with explained no, you go sideways. That seemed possible.

My ski partner was someone I met doing the Taos Ski Week, which at that time most people did. Some came back year after year. You have an instructor and the same group for like 3 hours every morning. The thing is you kind of become part of the family of the mountain. Somehow I ended up waxing skis for Alain Veth at his shop. He used to tune for Tamara McKinney. He yelled at me for using too much wax! I think thursday there was a party for ski weekers at the St Bernard. Jane Mayer made some sort of hordoeuvres which he ran around serving himself.

I believe that was the first year I skied with a helmet and in the chutes your glad to have it if you fall and slide into rocks which in the steep terrain is quite possible. I do remember sometime in the week getting a tip stuck in a mogul up there in Stauffenberg, feeling my leg twist and thinking something like the knee was going to give. I might have been saved by boots that were too big.

Further along that ridge, I think you have to go through some trees, we did a narrow chute who's name I don't remember. This was in the Ski Week group. It seemed impossibly narrow. Then the guy in front of me went down and managed to turn and he was on 200's and my skis were 193 cm's. So it was doable.

During the week at lunch a lady asked someone in our group if the stuff we were doing was "extreme skiing". They answered, "No, it's not. But t's beginner extreme."

Not sure how I feel about the chair up Kachina Peak. To those who've been to Aspen Highlands it's kind of like putting a chairlift up Highlands bowl. Gross, right? Unthinkable. Not quite the same as Kachina but close. Not nearly as many hiked Kachina per day, I think, as Highlands bowl. When I was there we hiked it, which means ski down the ridge and then hike, with the group. Then at lunch my ski partner suggested we do it again. This wasn't appealing holding skis on the shoulder climbing the steep parts with wind blowing. He offered he had a strap I could use. Ok, let's go before it's too late. So we did the Peak twice in a day which was pretty cool. I remeber up on the ridge there was an antenna with barbed wire wrapped on the guy wires. I asked a patroller why the barbed wire. "For the cattle. They like to rub against the wires and they'll break." That's at like 12,500ft!

Taos is a very special place. If you've thought of going, just go. I mean it's in New Mexico - "Land of Enchantment". Indeed.
 

Michael R.

skiNEwhere
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omg you guys suck. and by "suck" I mean I'm super jealous. Way to get it!!
 

SBrown

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how far could it be? 350-400 miles? No problem. Well... The scale on a Texas map is a little different. It was basically 1,000 miles to Taos. ....

LOL, it's just one state over, right?

But for the Vietnam War, I would have grown up in Lubbock. So there was some good to come out of it....
 

James

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LOL, it's just one state over, right?

But for the Vietnam War, I would have grown up in Lubbock. So there was some good to come out of it....
Yeah, it's the State next door!
It's basically the same distance to drive from LAX in Los Angeles to Taos as Houston to Taos. Weird.
 
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