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SRAM Eagle upgrade

AmyPJ

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Word is Trek, at least on their higher end, are going to Shimano for 2021.
 

Erik Timmerman

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Yeh, but the RD to work that cassette is 1x system only - 2x system RDs are offeeshally limited to 46. More money to Wolftooth I guess.

OFC OP is already on 1x - not sure what his chainline is but it should be possible to franken up something without changing the cranks/BB.

I think the important thing with 11-spd 11-51 is that you would not need a microspline freehub body and therefore would not need new wheels.
 

Primoz

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Yeah I guess if I will switch, I will go 12 speed... I did go and check this later on, and current RD (M8000 sgs) is max 46T on 1x:
** For 3x11-speed, Max 40T . for 2x11-speed, Max 42T . for 1x11-speed, Max 46T
So no cheap 11spd 11-51 cassette for me :)
 

cantunamunch

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Open question - is One-Up's Shark conversion now obsolete?

 

Erik Timmerman

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I think those were kind of un-needed even a few years ago when Sunrise came out with some extreme cassette combos.
 

Tom K.

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Those One-Up shark conversions shifted about as well as a fish.
 

princo

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Some places are already showing the new Deore components pricing (Universal Cycles). The m5100 series 11 sp 11-51 cassette, RD, and shifter together are about $183 . The cranks are $50. Not bad. At that price point, mulleting something is probably not worth the effort.
 
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Tricia

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Dropped as in dropped it from the lineup or dropped the price or dropped it into the lineup?

What needs changing when switching from SRAM to Shimano besides:
  • shifter
  • deraileur
  • chain
  • cassette
Cranks?
BB?
Brake lever (that the shifter attaches to)? I have Guide brake levers.
I was wondering the same thing, based on Erik's post.
 

princo

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I was wondering the same thing, based on Erik's post.
I'll try to summarize. The first thing you need to figure out is whether you are keeping your wheels and what type of freehub body you have on your rear wheel for cassette compatibility. This article by Enve has some very good info on the freehubs available. FREEHUBS EXPLAINED: WHAT ARE XDR AND MICRO SPLINE?

If you indeed would like to keep your wheels, you need to find out if the hub manufacturer has a freehub body available for the type of cassette you want to run. For example if your wheels currently have an XD driver, you need to find out if there are parts available to convert it to a Shimano hub. Let's say you have DT Swiss hubs, you would go this page on their website to figure out how to convert their hubs to Shimano: DT SWISS Conversion Charts. If you are looking to convert into a Shimano 12 speed, this requires a MicroSpline freehub body. Since this is a proprietary standard, there are very few conversion kits available (DT Swiss being one of the few available). That's why the Deore 11 speed cassette in 11-51 is so attractive, cause you can use your Shimano hub or (usually) find a conversion kit to run it and thus keeping your wheel. (Edit: Some SRAM drivetrains that don't use a 10T cog work with Shimano freehubs, so if you are running an older SRAM drive train you may already have a Shimano hub, and you should be set if going 11 speed.)

Once you have this figured out, you would need a shifter, rear derailleur and chain to go with cassette (in this case all Shimano, unless you want to get into mulleting). You could potentially keep the cranks if the chainline of your current cranks is similar to the one recommended for the drivetrain. If you have third party cranks like RaceFace\Easton\FSA you can check to see if they have chainrings that could work with the existing crank. If a new crank is needed, you can keep the bottom bracket if the spindle diameter is the same. If not you will need a new bottom bracket. For example, if you are currently running SRAM GXP cranks (24-22mm) and want to go to Shimano cranks (24mm) you will need a new BB. If your brakes have an individual brake to bar mount, you can probably keep them. If using integrated brake and shifter clamps, scratch you head and read this mbr explains… Integrated brake and shifter clamps.

Hopefully I didn't miss too much in the above summary.
 
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Ross Biff

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I feel like i can spin the cranks slightly slower and get the same power with long cranks and reduce wheel spin but it could be my imagination.
I agree with this almost completely. I experimented with every thing from 165 to 180. 165 felt like I was pushing fresh air and 180 made my knees feel quite unstable so 175 standard it is. I'm currently on a 30 front, 42 rear setup and I'm toying with the idea of a 46 rear, mainly as a bail- out when I'm feeling the pressure! As a gear gets lower and the slope gets steeper there comes a point were tyre/planet traction is the limiting factor. This is obviously going to depend on a load of different things so my best gearing and someone else's best will be different. What feels good or adequate goes hand in hand with the trails you ride.
 
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Doug Briggs

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Thank you everyone for your thoughts. In consideration of finances I chose to go the most frugal way: replacing the cassette, chain and chain ring for $277 including tax (8.875 %). It would have cost well over $500 for a SRAM Eagle 1x12 upgrade and who knows what for a Shimano upgrade. I'm guessing north of $500 since I'd have needed everything the Eagle upgrade would involve plus likely BB and cranks. Would a Shimano shifter have mated to my Guide brake levers?

I did go from a 30T to a 28T ring and while I don't notice an overwhelming ease in climbing now, I do think I can tell it helps. Could be the placebo effect. The 27 days of at least 1K vertical (many days were 1.5K) backcountry skiing since the lifts closed may have helped with the ease of climbing. My lung capacity seems better then I recall it being in a long time, too. Nature only knows I haven't been kinder to my body by reducing alcohol and cannabis consumption or improving my diet (see my mention elsewhere of White Castle sliders).
 
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Slim

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To late now for @Doug Briggs , but for anyone else who has 1x11, check out Garbaruk. They have 11 speed cassettes for Xd and HG free hubs, up to 50t. Not cheap (~$225), but far cheaper than Sram of the same weight. Or Sunrace if you want cheaper.
After riding the Puker on the Wasatch Crest trail, I switched from 10-42 to 10-46 Garbaruk. With a 28t chainring on a 29er this gives me a decent low gear, that still doesn't have me wobbling and toppling over, while allowing all the top end speed to accelerate for a jump on a fast trail. Most of the time on the mtb the hardest gears sit unused anyway.

On the other hand, if your derailleur and shifter are getting on in age, 12 speed is pretty cheap these days.
 

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