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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Skiing in the Balkans

Mattadvproject

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Most people on here know me for my trips reports to some of the more exotic ski destinations around the world. With COVID-19 still rampant and affecting the US and most other countries around the world, then planning for the upcoming season has been challenging. I was thankful that I was at least able to run a couple of trips to Japan in January but then on our way to Georgia in early March, we got shut down and had to turn around as the virus turned into a pandemic and the US started to shut down it's borders. This summer, I would normally be in Chile and potentially NZ, but those areas have obviously been off-limits to US travelers.

The past 6 months have been tough. I'm not confident that my regular trips to Japan, India or Georgia will be able to go ahead this winter. Japan is only allowing a handful of people in each day and I think it's unlikely that mainstream US and Western tourists will be allowed in, in time, for the upcoming winter. India's infection rates continue to increase and they might soon surpass the US in daily new cases. The Republic of Georgia has done very well at limiting the virus within it's own borders. As of today, they have reported 2,937 confirmed cases of COVID-19 and only 19 deaths. Georgia started to re-open it's international borders on July 31st, with citizens of 5 countries (France, Germany, Estonia, Lithuania, Latvia) allowed in without any entry restrictions. There's no word on whether or not US citizens will be allowed in soon. I think we'll know more after the elections in October.

This situation has forced me to get creative and goodness knows, I've had the free time to do it (but honestly, the motivation hasn't always been there as I was pretty mentally burned out from the events of last winter). So I started doing some research and there are currently 45 countries that US travelers can travel to (this list does fluctuate and not all websites have accurate or current information, so you have to be careful, but this site generally posts some insightful and updates regularly - https://thepointsguy.com/guide/places-americans-can-travel-internationally/). There's a lot of countries in the Caribbean and other tropical climes, but thankfully, there are a few countries on there with decent skiing, mostly in the Balkans.

I have been interested in skiing in the Balkans for quite a while. There was a great adventure ski travel series by the Snowmads, who filmed a whole roadtrip series in an old converted firetruck, skiing their way through the Balkans. That was a really inspiring series and if you haven't seen it, then you should check it out here at (episode 1 - ). Youtube is a great resource for gaining intel on new, potential destinations. I will search out video on resorts I'm interested in to see in more detail the terrain, snow and how busy the place is. Then I'll go on Facebook and try and find more information there and often that leads to being able to make those all important local connections.

So for this winter, it's looking more and more likely that the Balkans is where I will be heading for my adventures. I've been researching Kosovo, North Macedonia and Turkey. All of those countries currently allow for travel for US citizens without any restrictions. Turkey has proved to be the most illusive of the three, which is surprising given that it has the most resorts and developed infrastructure (around 20 ski areas with 10 of those being proper resorts and there is also quality heli-skiing, but it's expensive). It's been the hardest to research, most notably because my connections in Turkey are more limited, but there just isn't great information out there for powder-seeking freeriders like me (I like resorts that have great terrain and snow, with good access to the sidecountry, good backcountry closeby, have workable lift infrastructure, decent accommodation, affordable, I don't ask for much apparently!). Most of the video's on Youtube are from locals skiing the groomers and very few give you a good feel for the more advanced terrain, sidecountry and powder-potential. I did find a few intriguing shots, but given the lack of decent connections and local support (and how much easier it is for me to start putting together trips to the other two destinations), I'm putting Turkey on the backburner for now. I am intrigued though, I think there is potential and I will return to it again soon, but that will be a few more years away.

I know a good guide in Kosovo so I'm in the middle of setting up a trip with him. That will be a resort/sidecountry/pure backcountry trip (a nice bit of variety!) and we'll be exploring some of the best spots in Kosovo hopefully. I'm still putting the finishing touches to that trip so I'll add more detail a bit later. What I'm really excited about is the trip to North Macedonia. I have found a cat ski operator to work with and he is letting us hire cats with a minimum of 6 people in them (normally these cats sit 12 to 14 people, not including the guides/driver). That's an amazing offer. I know that like me, times are tough, so any kind of business for them will be welcome. I don't know if he'll be able to give us the same deal the following winter (assuming the world is somewhat back to normal). As much as I want to ski here in Colorado, I'm definitely concerned about the limitations that resorts will be placing and then what pressure that will put on the backcountry. Obviously I am extremely grateful that we are going to have some kind of ski season, it could be a lot worse. I do think that going somewhere quiet, for small group, private cat skiing, will be quite the tonic. I hope we'll get enough people to go.

So that's the plan for now. It could very well change though, we'll have to see. Fingers crossed I can pull some of this off. Here's a few photos of what cat skiing in North Macedonia looks like......

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- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

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Was not there in winter, but the mountains of Slivenia and Montenegro looked amazing.

Nice Jerez! There's a lot of good skiing to be had in this zone. I know Croatia has some good skiing too, Bulgaria, Albania (heliskiing only currently), maybe Serbia? There's a lot to checkout in that area. I'd love to go to Slovenia too, I've heard good things about the freeride potential of Vogel.


- Matt
 

Rod9301

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Turkey has the advantage of maritime snowpack, better snow and low avalanche danger.

I would go in the mountains north, close to the Black Sea.
 

coskigirl

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Very interesting! Sadly, school will keep me from major trips this year but I love that you tend to go off the beaten path. My ski tune guy is originally from Serbia so might be able to offer some insight. Check out Snow-Hut in Lafayette and tell Timur I sent you.
 
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Mattadvproject

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Turkey has the advantage of maritime snowpack, better snow and low avalanche danger.

I would go in the mountains north, close to the Black Sea.

Thanks Rod,
I believe that's where some of the heliski ops are located in the Kackar mountains. Sadly heliski is not in the budget. There are some resorts in that area with at least 500m vertical. They are Palendoken, Sarikamis and Merkezi. The rest of the resorts are pretty spread out, some central and then some closer to Istanbul in the west.

Palendoken looks like it might have some sidecountry action -


But watch out for avalanches.....


Sarikamis has a lot of tree skiing and when the conditions are right, I've read articles that it could be good, but in the limited research I've done, I haven't found much video at least, to support that. Merkezi looks very different, more like a resort from New England. I wonder how good the tree skiing could be? There's no one going in the trees in this video.....


- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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Very interesting! Sadly, school will keep me from major trips this year but I love that you tend to go off the beaten path. My ski tune guy is originally from Serbia so might be able to offer some insight. Check out Snow-Hut in Lafayette and tell Timur I sent you.

Thanks Robyn,
Appreciate this. Not sure if I'll be in Lafayette anytime soon (we moved to Granby), but always keen to meet new people, especially someone from Serbia. I definitely love to take people on adventures, I'm definitely inspired by exploring exotic new lands with skis in hand! I had made some great new connections prior to the pandemic and had some cool new trips planned. There was going to be Siberia in early December (Siberia gets consistent snowfalls from October onwards and has great powder skiing in the late Fall), then I had options for sail boat-assisted ski touring in Kamchatka (far eastern Russian peninsula, skinning up volcanoes), a potential 3 resort trip to Uzbekistan, Mt. Elbrus in Russia and more cool-looking options in Georgia. So, needless to say, like the rest of the world, I can't wait for this pandemic to be over so the adventures can continue. I am thankful that I have my health and that some kind of ski season will be happening this winter.....

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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A little footage from the cat skiing place in Macedonia we are going to. I like the range of terrain, from mellow, wide-open faces to steeper, more technical lines and chutes. There's skinning to increase vertical and for the super-keen, you can hike for a first descent and you get to name it. I'll definitely be up for that!


- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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Kosovo has some great skiing. The resort of Bresovica has some great sidecountry potential. For this trip, we are looking at skiing a lot of sidecountry with lift access and then backcountry touring. They have some impressive looking terrain. Should be a lot of fun! Here's some highlights from Kosovo.....


- Matt
 

Flo

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If you want something exotic check the Kazakhstan. Never been there but some fellow Frenchies did a trip there and it looks like a lot of fun.
 
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Mattadvproject

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If you want something exotic check the Kazakhstan. Never been there but some fellow Frenchies did a trip there and it looks like a lot of fun.

Thanks for this Flo. Definitely, Kazakhstan is on the radar. One of our guides in Georgia is already running trips there, so it would be an easy place to go. He goes to Shymbulak resort and then to the Tuyuksu glacier. The skiing there is really good in May by all accounts. I'd like to go check it out.


There's plenty of skiing to be had in the 'istans, I think I'd also like to go to Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan. That's several years down the line, but I'd like to get there eventually.

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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Here's some nice footage of my Georgian friends touring in Kazakhstan in the Almaty area....


- Matt
 

Rod9301

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Thanks for this Flo. Definitely, Kazakhstan is on the radar. One of our guides in Georgia is already running trips there, so it would be an easy place to go. He goes to Shymbulak resort and then to the Tuyuksu glacier. The skiing there is really good in May by all accounts. I'd like to go check it out.


There's plenty of skiing to be had in the 'istans, I think I'd also like to go to Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan. That's several years down the line, but I'd like to get there eventually.

- Matt
You should know that avalanche danger is really high in the countries, full on continental climate, so most times you would ski 20 degree slopes.

Russia has good heli skiing in krasnaya polyana, with maritime snowpack
 
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Mattadvproject

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You should know that avalanche danger is really high in the countries, full on continental climate, so most times you would ski 20 degree slopes.

Russia has good heli skiing in krasnaya polyana, with maritime snowpack

Yes, I was aware of that, thanks. If you recall my experiences in Xinjinag, back in 2017..... I'm familiar with the Altai mountains and how challenging the conditions were there and I'm sure the Tien Shan mountains and other ranges closeby, would heed a lot of caution too.
 

Itinerant skier

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Nice. Your winter plans are ambitious. I skied Uludag Turkey a few years back, but that's probably not of the scale you are looking for. Was in Kyrgyzstan for work last year and was quite bummed not to be able to go skiing. That may be next on my list...
 
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Mattadvproject

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Nice. Your winter plans are ambitious. I skied Uludag Turkey a few years back, but that's probably not of the scale you are looking for. Was in Kyrgyzstan for work last year and was quite bummed not to be able to go skiing. That may be next on my list...

Thanks for this Itinerant Skier! I'd like to hear more about your adventures to Uludag, if you have time? Uludag was on my shortlist for resorts to visit in Turkey, if I made it there. How is it for powder, terrain, off-piste/sidecountry ski access? There is so little information about that style of skiing (which isn't always a bad thing), it would be great to hear from someone who's seen it for themselves.

- Matt
 

Itinerant skier

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Thanks for this Itinerant Skier! I'd like to hear more about your adventures to Uludag, if you have time? Uludag was on my shortlist for resorts to visit in Turkey, if I made it there. How is it for powder, terrain, off-piste/sidecountry ski access? There is so little information about that style of skiing (which isn't always a bad thing), it would be great to hear from someone who's seen it for themselves.

- Matt
I went in 2009 as part of a weekend excursion from Istanbul. Booked it through a travel agency in town, included the ferry ride, city tour in Bursa, tram ride up to Uludag, lodging and lifts. Even included ski and clothing rentals. There were several hotels spread across the area like some of the Alps resorts. The lift ticket was only good for the lifts owned by the hotel group you were staying at. 5-6 lifts iirc (an Istanbul friend tells me that there is now a combined ticket good on all 20+ lifts). The skiing itself had a very Timberline Lodge (OR) vibe. Fairly low angle, maritime snowpack, a mix of above and below treeline runs. It was very crowded, but it was the weekend. I'm afraid i don't know about sidecountry access. the total tour cost came out to less than $200 us, so a pretty good deal. I imagine it's still readily available.
 
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Mattadvproject

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I went in 2009 as part of a weekend excursion from Istanbul. Booked it through a travel agency in town, included the ferry ride, city tour in Bursa, tram ride up to Uludag, lodging and lifts. Even included ski and clothing rentals. There were several hotels spread across the area like some of the Alps resorts. The lift ticket was only good for the lifts owned by the hotel group you were staying at. 5-6 lifts iirc (an Istanbul friend tells me that there is now a combined ticket good on all 20+ lifts). The skiing itself had a very Timberline Lodge (OR) vibe. Fairly low angle, maritime snowpack, a mix of above and below treeline runs. It was very crowded, but it was the weekend. I'm afraid i don't know about sidecountry access. the total tour cost came out to less than $200 us, so a pretty good deal. I imagine it's still readily available.

Thanks IS, greatly appreciate the reply and further information. I'm still curious but I think Turkey is still further down the list. Greece is now climbing up the list again after I made some solid connections there recently.....


- Matt
 

dave-o

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Hey Matt, I'm thinking to go to Dragobrat, Ukraine, conditions and work permitting, but I do see that US citizens are now off the points guys list. One to investigate though?
IMO the snow should hold-up better there, whereas the Balkans and Turkey don't seem to get regular storm cycles. Kyrgyzstan is a wild card too, just for the hell of it.
Stay safe.
Dave
 

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