Sienna Brakes

[Tom K.]

We love our 2012 AWD Sienn -- in all ways except the brakes.

We had bad front disk warping problems that were partially covered under a TSB, but still not cheap.

It involved replacing some caliper parts, trimming a forward "mud" flap and cutting some kind of cooling port into the fender wells, IIRC. That was two years ago, and IT'S BACK!!!

Anybody have any genius solutions to this? I do all the smart braking stuff like using the trans in manual and a lower gear coming down mtn passes, don't tow anything over 600 pounds, etc.

TIA!

 

[AlpsSkidad]

My understanding is that a lot of people with the Gen2 Sienna swap the brakes with the Gen3 parts for your exact reasons. Main downside is that you need 17" wheels to make the swap, and many Gen2 Siennas came with 16" rims. Otherwise it is apparently a relatively easy swap, and the larger vented rotors make a huge difference.

 

[Tom K.]

My understanding is that a lot of people with the Gen2 Sienna swap the brakes with the Gen3 parts for your exact reasons. Main downside is that you need 17" wheels to make the swap, and many Gen2 Siennas came with 16" rims. Otherwise it is apparently a relatively easy swap, and the larger vented rotors make a huge difference.

But dang it, I think I've already got a Gen3 version?

It's a 2012, and nothing has really changed since then, other than the dashboard.

 

[Plai]

Don't know if this directly applicable, but I went with after market slotted and vented brakes for my gen 3 (99) and gen 4 (2008) 4runners. On both vehicles, the front brake rotors would warp after a handful of trips into the hills. On the gen 3 did one round of OEM parts and then went directly to after market. On the gen 4, just want for the original parts to wear and didn't go back.

The after market parts are thicker, heavier and vent faster. Both good attributes given my driving style.

Good luck with your search.

 

[cantunamunch]

Anyone starting to suspect brutal air wrench torquing yet?

 

[AlpsSkidad]

But dang it, I think I've already got a Gen3 version?

It's a 2012, and nothing has really changed since then, other than the dashboard.

ah yes you do- sorry about that...
in that case you could always go this route...
https://ceika-store.com/products/cbk1663

 

[Tom K.]

Anyone starting to suspect brutal air wrench torquing yet?

NOT A CHANCE. The first thing I do upon returning home after a spring/fall change from winter/summer tires is loosen them all up and re-torque them exactly, and in three steps. Then, after 100 miles or so of driving, I double-check them. Plus, my tire guy would never put an air wrench to an install. Dismount, yes.

 

[Tom K.]

Don't know if this directly applicable, but I went with after market slotted and vented brakes for my gen 3 (99) and gen 4 (2008) 4runners. On both vehicles, the front brake rotors would warp after a handful of trips into the hills. On the gen 3 did one round of OEM parts and then went directly to after market. On the gen 4, just want for the original parts to wear and didn't go back.

The after market parts are thicker, heavier and vent faster. Both good attributes given my driving style.

Good luck with your search.

ah yes you do- sorry about that...
in that case you could always go this route...

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated.

That CEIKA stuff looks beautiful, but.......it's a minivan.

I'm thinking just some better aftermarket rotors, especially since we might turn this van over in 15 months.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

 

[Plai]

I'm thinking just some better aftermarket rotors, especially since we might turn this van over in 15 months.

A quick search of my email history says I ordered from JC Whitney:
2008 Toyota 4Runner Centric Centric Sportstop Performance Slotted Disc Brake Rotor 4Runner

I don't really understand all the variations available with brake rotors. Was told that slotted should be enough, vented (holes) might wear brake pads too quick. I do know that I haven't worried about these rotors since 2012, whereas the OEM parts lasted only one summer of trips to the hills. Since 2012, I've added this skiing habit, so it's now year round trips to the hills.

Good luck with your search.

 

[Tom K.]

So, in the category of "WOW!", Toyota is going to replace the rotors and pads.

Gotta love that. Almost as much as if the brakes were sized to handle the vehicle.

 

[CalG]

You are likely aware of this information, but still a good review of cause and effect
https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

[Tom K.]

I did bed these in when they were new about a year and a half ago, using almost that exact procedure.

And they were great.....until they weren't. This vehicle has HUGE problems with warped front rotors, to the point that the factory "fix" involves all kind of borderline unacceptable nonsense including cutting the size of the forward suspension flaps in half, cutting some cooling ducts in the inner skirts, and putting a "special" lubricant on the caliper slider pin(s). And that might not even be all of it.

So, fingers crossed. Luckily, the drive home can be done on a fun, rural road that starts flat allowing for the multiple brake applications, followed by a nice, long, curvy uphill that can be driven without ever touching the brake pedal.

 

[scott43]

I don't believe they warp from heat..all of my race bikes had blue rotors from heat from repeated (obviously) heavy braking and they never warped. I suspect it's from improper installation (not flush or improperly torqued) causing uneven wear or pad material build-up from heat. Not saying there isn't an issue..just warping I think is an incorrect term.

 

[CalG]

I have heard of people keeping a set of "abrasive" pads on hand to recondition the rotor surfaces when they go sour.
It is the pad material that transfers to the rotor, not the rotor actually "warping". A pad slap is not hard, but really, we just want to drive these cars.

Those nonsense fixes are geared toward heat removal . The "special grease is aimed at rubbing friction if the calipers don't kick back enough. (SOME ROTOR RUNOUT IS NECESSARY!)
A long mountain downhill is just too much for such stop gap measures. When things get hot, what can you do? Try different pads perhaps. Don't come to a stop until the brakes are completely cooled off. What about traffic? Unworkable!

 

[Tom K.]

I work the brakes on our Sprinter and my "fun" cars a LOT harder than this stupid Sienna. It's no coincidence that Toyota made a pretty significant running change on the brakes (around 15 or 16), but hell, this thing has smaller brakes than my 128 did, and it weighs 50% more.

And I appreciate all the technique suggestions for bedding in new brakes, and I use them on the Sienna, but have never had to bother with any other vehicle.

 

[CalG]

I work the brakes on our Sprinter and my "fun" cars a LOT harder than this stupid Sienna. It's no coincidence that Toyota made a pretty significant running change on the brakes (around 15 or 16), but hell, this thing has smaller brakes than my 128 did, and it weighs 50% more.

And I appreciate all the technique suggestions for bedding in new brakes, and I use them on the Sienna, but have never had to bother with any other vehicle.

Have you tried alternate pads? pedal effort may increase, but.......

 

[Tom K.]

Have you tried alternate pads? pedal effort may increase, but.......

I was ready to go the better pads/rotors route (thanks to all that provided recommendations there) but since Toyota is going to give me a full-on freebie, I'll take it, and bed them in carefully, and then hold my breath for a couple years.......

 

[tball]

A long mountain downhill is just too much for such stop gap measures. When things get hot, what can you do? Try different pads perhaps. Don't come to a stop until the brakes are completely cooled off. What about traffic? Unworkable!

I'm sure it's obvious to most there, but downshift and save your brakes for when you need them! It's unbelievable how many vehicles I see riding their brakes all the way down long descents. I'm doing the opposite and staying off the brakes as much as possible. Is hyper-braking a thing?

I've "warped" my fair share of rotors in my day. Whatever the end result, hard braking from high speed on a steep decent seems the cause, especially when loaded. I always replace my rotors now when having the brakes done. Rotors never seem to last long without a wobble after turning them, even with careful breaking in.

 

[Tom K.]

I'm sure it's obvious to most there, but downshift and save your brakes for when you need them! It's unbelievable how many vehicles I see riding their brakes all the way down long descents. I'm doing the opposite and staying off the brakes as much as possible. Is hyper-braking a thing?

Agree. I do it all the time. In fact, in nearly 80,000 miles of driving, I doubt I've driven the van 1,000 miles in Drive. I'm a closet member of the Save The Manuals Club, though after five years without, I'd probably shift like crap now, and forget actual heel and toeing.

 

[CalG]

I'm sure it's obvious to most there, but downshift and save your brakes for when you need them! It's unbelievable how many vehicles I see riding their brakes all the way down long descents. I'm doing the opposite and staying off the brakes as much as possible. Is hyper-braking a thing?

I've "warped" my fair share of rotors in my day. Whatever the end result, hard braking from high speed on a steep decent seems the cause, especially when loaded. I always replace my rotors now when having the brakes done. Rotors never seem to last long without a wobble after turning them, even with careful breaking in.

You mean hot ,right? like this.
https://www.google.com/search?q=red...kKHRLXCigQ9QEwBHoECAgQDA#imgrc=QqVf1N24ZPKlOM:
Did all these rotors "warp"?