Side Edge Planing Chunder - Suggestions?

[clickflashwhirp]

Ok, should be obvious to any that have replied before that my tuning tends to include the sporadic trashing of a ski or two. Not going to sugar coat this one either: Black Crows Camox have a bit of a weird sidewall in that there is this brownish lip that runs along the edge before you get to the side wall. Using a planer with a circular carbide blade it didn't seem to touch this brownish lip...so I tried a square carbide blade and it chundered up about 8" of side wall - ironically not touching the brown lip much.

Questions are:

How to get rid of the chunder without taking yet more out of the sidewall as it was slightly overdone on that section and concaves a little bit
. Was thinking risking using the circular blade again but worried I won't have any ski left.

Has anyone dealt with this brownish lip on Black Crows? Is the lip of the sidewall supposed to be removed on Black Crows? Didn't have problems with a sandwhich K2 Sight or capped Fischer S-Bounds.

See pics below for detail.

As always, the imparted wisdom is appreciated.

Kind regards,

Clickflashwhirp

. Was thinking risking using the circular blade again but worried I won't have any ski left.

Has anyone dealt with this brownish lip on Black Crows? Is the lip of the side wall supposed to be removed on Black Crows? Didn't have problems with a sandwhich K2 Sight or Fischer S-Bounds.

As always, the imparted wisdom is appreciated.

Kind regards,

Clickflashwhirp

 

[KingGrump]

Don't really see the referenced brownish lip. I see yellow side walls.

Looks like a generic ski with two layer if metal. The chundering happens when the gap (sidewall) between the two layers metal is too narrow for the planer blade to get a clean cut without contact with the top layer of metal.

Solution is to use a panzer file in the tip and tail sections.

 

[Jacques]

It's not the end of the world. Go at sidewalll with a file as to shape it better. Then sand with 220 wet paper wrapped around something.
Those sidewall planers need to be adjusted just so. Just keep practicing. Angle of attack and depth of cut combined with pressure used. A good sharp bit etc.

 

[clickflashwhirp]

Don't really see the referenced brownish lip. I see yellow side walls.

Looks like a generic ski with two layer if metal. The chundering happens when the gap (sidewall) between the two layers metal is too narrow for the planer blade to get a clean cut without contact with the top layer of metal.

Solution is to use a panzer file in the tip and tail sections.

Thanks, the brown bit seems to be powdery when cut into, not a smooth plastic like the yellow wall. So just cut into the yellow wall?

 

[clickflashwhirp]

It's not the end of the world. Go at sidewalll with a file as to shape it better. Then sand with 220 wet paper wrapped around something.
Those sidewall planers need to be adjusted just so. Just keep practicing. Angle of attack and depth of cut combined with pressure used. A good sharp bit etc.

Starting out with all this and it can be daunting but I enjoy it alot so again - appreciate your time. What file would you recommend for shaping the sidewall and when you say shape, what am I looking to create by shaping with the file?

 

[cantunamunch]

Thanks, the brown bit seems to be powdery when cut into, not a smooth plastic like the yellow wall. So just cut into the yellow wall?

The height of the cut and depth of cut is set wrong on (both) your sidewall planers. The brown bit is an adhesive between the ABS sidewall and the edges.

You're looking to create exposed metal, so that when a file sharpens the edges, it does not cut into either the yellow or the brown, and so the file doesn't get lifted or deflected by sliding on the yellow bit.

 

[clickflashwhirp]

It's not the end of the world. Go at sidewalll with a file as to shape it better. Then sand with 220 wet paper wrapped around something.
Those sidewall planers need to be adjusted just so. Just keep practicing. Angle of attack and depth of cut combined with pressure used. A good sharp bit etc.

Starting out with all this and it can be daunting but I enjoy it alot so again - appreciate your time. What file would you recommend for shaping the sidewall and when you say shape, what am I looking to create by shaping with the file?

The height of the cut and depth of cut is set wrong on (both) your sidewall planers. The brown bit is an adhesive between the ABS sidewall and the edges.

You're looking to create exposed metal, so that when a file sharpens the edges, it does not cut into either the yellow or the brown, and so the file doesn't get lifted or deflected by sliding on the yellow bit.

So, cut in to the adhesive also just avoiding the metal edge?

 

[cantunamunch]

Starting out with all this and it can be daunting but I enjoy it alot so again - appreciate your time. What file would you recommend for shaping the sidewall and when you say shape, what am I looking to create by shaping with the file?

@KingGrump posted on this - pansar (super coarse) files are best for shaping sidewall, if you're going to shape it with files.

You're looking to create exposed metal, so that when a file sharpens the edges, it does not cut into either the yellow or the brown, and so the file doesn't get lifted or deflected by sliding on the yellow bit.

So, cut in to the adhesive also just avoiding the metal edge?

Only just avoiding the metal edge.
Therefore the height of cut of your circle planer is set too high (too far beyond the metal edges).
The 'chundering' left by the square planer means the depth of cut is too big IOW, you're trying to take off too much material in one go - the height of cut may be approximately correct but we can't tell because the blade is skipping. Less is more.

 

[otto]

check out these videos. one is what tools to use, the other is how to use the tools...

 

[Jacques]

Starting out with all this and it can be daunting but I enjoy it alot so again - appreciate your time. What file would you recommend for shaping the sidewall and when you say shape, what am I looking to create by shaping with the file?

Here is how I do it. Watch for a few minutes from this point.https://youtu.be/f8IkFvbK0FI?t=13m16s

 

[James]

A 7 degree edge guide with panzar file may work best with that brown stuff.
It's a little difficult to tell you how to adjust those planers. At this point, abrasives or panszar file is your best bet to smooth that out.

In general, if you have the sidewall planer adjusted near right and you get those chunders as you call them. Do very small sections, light pressure and pull the tool very rapidly. It's a bit like a car driving down a washboard bumped dirt road. At some speed it smooths out. Very quick pulls with the depth set lighly can smooth those. Or, make it worse if it's done wrong. So, this is why we recommend an abrasive or file cutting method.

This thread has loads of info admist the diversions.
https://www.pugski.com/threads/main...e-edges-sharp-in-between-tune-ups.7852/unread

 

[clickflashwhirp]

Many

@KingGrump posted on this - pansar (super coarse) files are best for shaping sidewall, if you're going to shape it with files.






Only just avoiding the metal edge.
Therefore the height of cut of your circle planer is set too high (too far beyond the metal edges).
The 'chundering' left by the square planer means the depth of cut is too big IOW, you're trying to take off too much material in one go - the height of cut may be approximately correct but we can't tell because the blade is skipping. Less is more.

Many thanks!

 

[clickflashwhirp]

A 7 degree edge guide with panzar file may work best with that brown stuff.
It's a little difficult to tell you how to adjust those planers. At this point, abrasives or panszar file is your best bet to smooth that out.

In general, if you have the sidewall planer adjusted near right and you get those chunders as you call them. Do very small sections, light pressure and pull the tool very rapidly. It's a bit like a car driving down a washboard bumped dirt road. At some speed it smooths out. Very quick pulls with the depth set lighly can smooth those. Or, make it worse if it's done wrong. So, this is why we recommend an abrasive or file cutting method.

This thread has loads of info admist the diversions.
https://www.pugski.com/threads/main...e-edges-sharp-in-between-tune-ups.7852/unread

Many thanks!

 

[clickflashwhirp]

Here is how I do it. Watch for a few minutes from this point.

Many thanks!

 

[Jacques]

Many thanks!

Now you're ready to "Work It!"