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Set base edge bevel

drew.sanderson

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I am curious about people's experience setting base edge bevel with a course diamond stone versus a file.
 

KingGrump

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I am curious about people's experience setting base edge bevel with a course diamond stone versus a file.

You can use both. Both will get the job done.
With a smooth file, couple minutes per edge.
With a diamond stone, couple hours/days/weeks/years per edge. Depending on your hand speed.
Your choice.
 

Wilhelmson

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I am curious about people's experience setting base edge bevel with a course diamond stone versus a file.
Are you setting from flat (ground), refreshing, or setting an increased angle?

I don’t bother setting from flat -i Iet the shop do that. I I were to set from flat, a file would be the tool. Sometimes I just file a side edge without a stone touch up but a stone polish is always nice.
 

Dave Marshak

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Base edge is a shop job for me. The hard part of setting the base edge is flattening the base. Once you figure that out you won't have to ask how to set the base angle.

dm
 
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drew.sanderson

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Im setting from flat with a file and a beast guide. I was just curious. I have a pile of skis at the shop now getting flat and structure. Wax and set angles was $25 / pair more and diy matches angles exactly to my tools for sure. $25 a pair buys a lot of wax and tools.
 

KingGrump

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Im setting from flat with a file and a beast guide. I was just curious. I have a pile of skis at the shop now getting flat and structure. Wax and set angles was $25 / pair more and diy matches angles exactly to my tools for sure. $25 a pair buys a lot of wax and tools.

If you have lots of pairs to do, best get it done with a file. Otherwise you'll still be working on them come 2025.
 

Delicious

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Im setting from flat with a file and a beast guide. I was just curious. I have a pile of skis at the shop now getting flat and structure. Wax and set angles was $25 / pair more and diy matches angles exactly to my tools for sure. $25 a pair buys a lot of wax and tools.
You'll be working with a "fresh" edge, so that Beast and hand file will will really make a lot of sense once you get going with it. Brush-out that file constantly while you work.
I personally believe that the diamond stone finish is worth the second step.(wet) Seems to create a more durable edge.
The difficult part for me is getting the bases clean after all of this. Brushing, small amount of base cleaner(sometimes), and warm scrape. But, I'm usually still looking at some dirty contamination, which bothers me. I would love suggestions for this!
 

Tony S

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You'll be working with a "fresh" edge, so that Beast and hand file will will really make a lot of sense once you get going with it. Brush-out that file constantly while you work.
I personally believe that the diamond stone finish is worth the second step.(wet) Seems to create a more durable edge.
The difficult part for me is getting the bases clean after all of this. Brushing, small amount of base cleaner(sometimes), and warm scrape. But, I'm usually still looking at some dirty contamination, which bothers me. I would love suggestions for this!
Pop 'em in the autoclave. You'll be fine.
 

gwat

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The difficult part for me is getting the bases clean after all of this. Brushing, small amount of base cleaner(sometimes), and warm scrape. But, I'm usually still looking at some dirty contamination, which bothers me. I would love suggestions for this!
Tape the bases before you file.
 

Henry

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Use a good sharp ski file, not a hardware store file (too soft), to remove a lot of steel. Use the diamond to remove less steel. The steel in the edges is part of the life of the ski. Always remove as little as possible to get the results you want.

Tip...ink the edge with a sharpie felt tip pen before you start, then remove just enough steel to remove all the ink.
 

KingGrump

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If you do decide to use a file. Get a smooth file (fine cut). 20TPCM.
1699753038441.png


The base bevel is quick. Couple minutes per side. Slow & steady with light pressure. Less is more.
Better to sneak up on it than over cut. Over cut CANNOT be remedied without a base grind.

You can polish the base edge with a 400 grit diamond stone after the base bevel is set.
 
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drew.sanderson

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If you do decide to use a file. Get a smooth file (fine cut). 20TPCM.
View attachment 215391

The base bevel is quick. Couple minutes per side. Slow & steady with light pressure. Less is more.
Better to sneak up on it than over cut. Over cut CANNOT be remedied without a base grind.

You can polish the base edge with a 400 grit diamond stone after the base bevel is set.
This basically sums up why I posted the question. I was curious how carefully people sneak up on it vs just go for it. Thanks for the encouragement.
 

KingGrump

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I was curious how carefully people sneak up on it vs just go for it.

Allow the file to do the cutting with slight downward pressure. You will/should feel the file cutting. check the file after several strokes. You will see the swarf on the file. Should be like very fine steel wool.
Pushing down on the file/guide too hard and you will flex the file and take off more edge than you want/need.

It goes pretty quick. No need to rush it.

Enjoy the process.
 

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