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ScottB

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I just checked a Blister review, and distance from the center mount number varies with the ski length, just like distance from tail.

Need a number specific for the ski length you have. Phil suggestion of measuring from a physical reference on the ski (tail) versus a printed on reference (fatory line) is good advice.
 

graham418

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Measuring from the tail works, but the measurement will be different for each length of a ski. You have to have the number for that length ski.

Another way is distance from the center of the ski. Blister Review uses this number. I am not sure, but that might be the same number for all lengths. It might not be either.

How do you find the centre of the ski. Centre of contact length? or centre from the very tip?
 

ScottB

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How do you find the centre of the ski. Centre of contact length? or centre from the very tip?

Blister, and I think most magazine references, are using center measured from the tip to tail. That is the norm I believe for publications. Easy and quick to find with a tape measure.

Being a Race Coach and also being a Clyde myself, I typically find the factory mount mark is not right for me. I go through the pain of finding the center of contact length and then mount my ball of foot within +/- 2 cm from the contact length center. I have measured all my skis and they trend: rockered skis typically at +2cm, race skis typically 0cm, and fully cambered -2cm. I don't have an explaination for why it is this way, but that is how they measured up. It turns out some are on the factory line and some are as much as 4 cm off the line. My finding is that you can't really trust the factory line. Sometimes its right and sometimes its not. Race skis seem to be the most consistant. They probably get the most scrutinized.

I decided to add a little more info about the factory line. Just to qualify, I don't work for a ski company, I am a mech. engineer and I have the education and background to be a ski designer, but I have never worked for a ski company. What I am about to say is my point of view and experiences with my own skis.

I think the factory line is determined by the ski design engineer by calculation. It is for the "reference ski length" that he does all his calculations on. For other lengths the dimesions are scaled, sometimes that works out to be correct and sometimes it might be off. Next comes testing and based on whatever size boot the tester(s) have they give feedback on the mount point. After the feedback the graphics are finalized and the ski goes to production. So in the reference ski length, for the testers boot size and weight, the factory line is good. For other lengths, should be good, but not always. For people with very small feet, or very large feet (me) mounting the boot mid mark puts your "ball of foot" or center of force from your foot in a different place on the ski than the testers. If the ski is sensitive to pressure location, it won't ski optimally. I have a large foot, my center of pressure is more forward than an average size foot if mounted on the same midsole line (and I weigh more) so I typically need to pull the binding back 1-2 cm. For a women skiing a men's ski with a small foot, she will need to mount forward of the line by 1-3 cm to get the same force on the tip of the ski. Rockered skis make it even more complicated and those are the skis I have the most issue with getting the mounting location right. I typically bury the tip and the ski plows unless I get my 240lbs of mass back on the ski. for a light women it works the opposite. In theory an average size women (close to the size of whoever is testing the ski) skiing on a womens model should be able to mount on the factory line and be optimal.
 
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ski otter 2

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Measuring from the tail works, but the measurement will be different for each length of a ski. You have to have the number for that length ski.

Another way is distance from the center of the ski. Blister Review uses this number. I am not sure, but that might be the same number for all lengths. It might not be either.

IMHO, there would have to be different recommendations for mount point by whatever method, for different lengths (from factory line, ski center, distance to tail, etc.). In my experience, different lengths of the same model ski usually have different optimal mount points for the same skier relative to factory line, ski center, or whatever other reference point one uses. This is mostly because the same skier will find differing fore-aft dynamics, dampness, etc. versus quickness or other trade-offs, on the same model at different lengths.

For example, with a 189 Shreditor ski, I may find fore-aft is so stable with the extra length that I can comfortably move forward of factory line to gain easier turning/playfulness; while with a shorter Shreditor, say 179, fore-aft stability considerations may override any gain in turnability/playfulness, so that I would tend to stick with factory line or even go farther back.

There are other trade-offs with mount point also that would change optimal mounting point(s) for differing lengths - partly because the height/weight/style of each skier stays constant, while the length, weight, radius, shape, etc. of the ski changes.
 

TSQURD

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Can anyone offer thoughts which length to go with? I’m 6’ about 160lbs, ski woods/bumps in the Mad River Valley so nimble is important.

Thanks.
 

UGASkiDawg

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I'm 5'10" and 170 and the 178 is perfect. I haven't tried the 185 so it might be perfecter. You should be happy with the 178 unless you are super aggressive and even then...
 

ScottB

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Can anyone offer thoughts which length to go with? I’m 6’ about 160lbs, ski woods/bumps in the Mad River Valley so nimble is important.

I am 6'4", 240lbs and I skied the 185 cm ski. That was a little short for me, I would order the 190, but it might work for you. I would say for your height the 185, for your weight the 178. This is an exceptionally light ski for a resort ski and is very easy to throw around. For trees the 178 would be quicker, for going fast on the groomers and for float the 185 wins. Either will work as this ski will stiffen up with speed. Others have sized down on some of Renoun's other skis to match their weight better to the ski, especially when it gets stiffer from the HDT.

My 2 cents
 

TSQURD

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Thanks for the reapones, which match my thoughts - I know Id be be in very happy on the 178, but can’t stop wondering if the 185s might be a little more perfect. The citadels will be replacing 189cm Kastle BMX 105s which are great skis but would become a chore in the tight stuff as the day went on.
 

Eric Edelstein

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I'm just under 6', and the 185 is right-on-the-money for the trees in VT. If I wanted the Citadels for cruising or western terrain...191 would be the ticket.....might need both....hmmmm...
 

Cyrus Schenck

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Hi Everyone -
To follow up here, the yellow stickers where for a miss-labeling of the correct drill bits to use.

The mounting location marked on the ski is still correct - and varies by length. Note that the placement of the yellow label is not the location of mounting (it's taped to the plastic on the outside ie not going to help you much). There is still a sticker on the actual ski and a tick-mark on the edge of the ski as well.

Hope this helps!
Cyrus
 

Cyrus Schenck

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Thanks for the reapones, which match my thoughts - I know Id be be in very happy on the 178, but can’t stop wondering if the 185s might be a little more perfect. The citadels will be replacing 189cm Kastle BMX 105s which are great skis but would become a chore in the tight stuff as the day went on.
This is exactly what the 100 Day Guarantee should be used for. Pick what you think is best and if it doesn't work, swap them out for the other size :)
 

Brian Finch

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4A48A23A-D2B1-4895-8F98-BBB0DB34C5E8.jpeg


Getting some attention in Men’s Journal
 

Mj2936

In the parking lot (formerly "At the base lodge")
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I'm 5'7" and 165lbs, what length would you all suggest for me? Also, I was looking at the head kore 105s, but I just saw these. How do the two compare?
 

Brian Finch

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I'm 5'7" and 165lbs, what length would you all suggest for me? Also, I was looking at the head kore 105s, but I just saw these. How do the two compare?

They don’t

The Kore is light & nimble

Citadel skis like a non carbon ski, more dampness.

How aggressive are you & what turnshape do you favor? With what you have provided, I’d say 178’s
 
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