It is just a starch. A bland vehicle to transport the actual flavor of the "real" food. Like rice, pasta, couscous, mash potato, etc. Every culture has something similar.
The issue with some of the trendy restaurants is that they have a tendency to under cook the grits. They often try to create something "new & improved". Grits like most common starches are peasant food. It is often the least expensive and most plentiful part of the meal. Most cultures have perfected they way they prepare the starch component of their meals. Some of these new chefs are trying to reinventing the wheel. Often with less than impressive results. ....
There is a restaurant near here (in CO) that does a shrimp and grits entree, and it tastes great, except they give you about 1.5 T of grits. I don't get it. Like you say, it's the cheapest and easiest part of the meal, don't skimp!!