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BGreen

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We use our old Grindrite belt edger to pull back the sidewall/metal layers prior to using the TJ.

Hey, that’s cheating!

I am a Master's racer and never seem to get my edges as sharp as the other guy. Getting tired of tuning for one hour plus before a race. I race in Ontario....and it's icy.
Tia

Any chance you’re not getting the titanal pulled back enough? Most files will skate on it and in me experience edgers are no different. Make sure you’re base is flat and your base bevel is what you want it to be. Any of those things can prevent you from getting the sharpness you want.
 

Nicad

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Hey, that’s cheating!



Any chance you’re not getting the titanal pulled back enough? Most files will skate on it and in me experience edgers are no different. Make sure you’re base is flat and your base bevel is what you want it to be. Any of those things can prevent you from getting the sharpness you want.
I always check that with a Sharpie and trim it back . I do get them sharp when I file, but not so much in between with a set of 200-400-600 diamond stones.
 

Doug Briggs

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Hey, that’s cheating!

It's one of the reasons I like working at the shop. Industrial strength tools. :cool:

I always check that with a Sharpie and trim it back . I do get them sharp when I file, but not so much in between with a set of 200-400-600 diamond stones.

I'll assume you are using guides when you are diamond stoning between tunes. Use the magic marker for stoning and see what you are actually doing to the edge when you stone them. Also, using a jeweler's loupe can help you evaluate your edges before, during and after edge work.
 

hbear

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I always check that with a Sharpie and trim it back . I do get them sharp when I file, but not so much in between with a set of 200-400-600 diamond stones.
Maybe just need to file more than.
 

Doug Briggs

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Maybe just need to file more than.

If the marker ink was uniformly covered the edge and all the marker is removed from the edge, more filing would only be redundant.

Something to note is that not all file guides are equal. You want to use the same guide for filing as well as for stoning the skis.
 
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jzmtl

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Hey, that’s cheating!



Any chance you’re not getting the titanal pulled back enough? Most files will skate on it and in me experience edgers are no different. Make sure you’re base is flat and your base bevel is what you want it to be. Any of those things can prevent you from getting the sharpness you want.

If your file skate in titanal you need a new file. It's just aluminum and any file should chew through it easily, but it does gum up fine stones quickly.
 

hbear

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If the marker ink was uniformly covered the edge and all the marker is removed from the edge, more filing would only be redundant.

Something to note is that not all file guides are equal. You want to use the same guide for filing as well as for stoning the skis.
I was thinking along the lines if he cannot maintain the sharpness with only diamonds in between ski sessions the edges might be beyond the point of being able to diamond them back to sharpness quickly. So in that case file.
 

Tricia

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I have the Protek and the titanal layer and the plastic sidewall will really get in the way if it's not pulled back. That titanal layers doesn't grind away nearly as easily as the sk edge.
Didn't we leave a sidewall planer at your condo?
 

Doug Briggs

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I'll concede that it has been a long while since I've had to work hard to keep skis sharp enough. ;) Around here, you can file once in a very seldom while, then stone each day after skiing and keep things sharp enough. More aggressive stones progressing to the final stone being used to finish now might help keep up with the needed sharpness. I would rather maintain sharpness with a more aggressive stoning regimen than to file more frequently.
 

ScottB

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I ski the frozen North East and I am convinced that filing gets your skis much sharper than progressively diamond stoning them. I don't want to overfile, so I diamond stone a couple times, then use a file, repeat cycle.

I am also coming to the conclusion that using the diamond stones after filing makes them less sharp. Without question, the ski edges feel the most "razor" like after I file them and then use a gummi or stone to deburr them. I always thought you get them sharper by using the 200/400/600 grit stones on them after filing. I think just the opposite now. My plan going forward is to file, deburr, go ski. Do a couple of resharpens and ski days with the stones, and then refile when I want them really sharp again.

I skied a hardpack slope at Jay after about 3 diamond stonings, and I was loosing my edge a lot. I took a file to them, deburred, and problem solved.

I am going to borrow a magnifying camera from work and take some pictures of the edges to prove my theory. Keep an eye out for a new post.
 

Sibhusky

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I'd be interested in seeing those pics. Are you using the same guide? I use a 100/220/325/600/1500/2200 series, but then I might be nuts. Same guide for file (two of those, excluding the pre-season Panzar, which also goes in the same guide).

Don't mistake cutting your hand for sharp. Although the serrated effect might be needed on some East Coast ice.
 
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Xela

Xela

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I just ran the Razor-Tune over three pairs of skis today. It certainly saved time and elbow grease, although I still need to go back and do the base edges. The biggest hassle is that I have to either change abrasives or play with the vise after every couple of passes. I still haven't decided which is easier.

The noise isn't so bad. I decided not to use earplugs this time around and it was fine. There is a fair amount of metal dust that settles on things. I used the respirator. I still need to rig up some magnets.

Finally, I have one idea for improvement. I don't know if the company reads this forum, but... I'd like the ball-bearing guides to be a bit taller. When sharpening the tips of kids skis, the bend is so tight that I can't always keep both bearings on the ski edge. Here's a photo so people can see what I'm talking about:

Razor-Tune.jpg
 

smoothrides

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Finally, I have one idea for improvement. I don't know if the company reads this forum, but... I'd like the ball-bearing guides to be a bit taller. When sharpening the tips of kids skis, the bend is so tight that I can't always keep both bearings on the ski edge. Here's a photo so people can see what I'm talking about:

View attachment 32300

I'd bet you can pull the bolt out that's holding those bearings and swap for a longer one while adding a second or third bearing to the stack. Just need to make sure it clears the brakes.
 

otto

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Xela, your tip and tail entry exit issue is indicative of all hand held devices. Get good at blending the tip/tail curve with a file guide and file that matches your Razors edge angle.
 

hbear

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I wouldn't say that, the Snowglide AFL does a pretty darn good job on the tip/tails due to being raised up compared to the AFC and Razr Tune....at least it gets as far into the tips/tails as I would with my hand file....
 

Nicad

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Just received my Razor-Tune. Hope it serves me well. So far I was pleased with the discussions I have had with the Mfg. They are into their product. It seems well made. They told me they are coming out with a shop vac hookup for dust issues. Said the magnetic mat doesn't really get much of the dust. Will be trying the fine disc with honing oil. Will post some more observations once I have experience with it and have skied on my skis after a tune. Hoping for Ice this year!
 

Nicad

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Update one year later. Seems well made. Keeping your skis sharp is very quick once you have them dialed in. I do believe I am wearing my skis out pretty fast, but I sharpen them daily and race every weekend. Not sure it is better than a good hand tune, but I think I have good grip overall. I'd make a couple of improvements to the design. Probably put a sponge you can wet with honing fluid at the front. Also would make the two wedge plates quick detach. It is quite a pain to switch back and forth from 2 degrees to 3 involving 4 tiny and easy to lose screws. I'd also color code the plates as it is easy to forget which one you have on. Happy with the purchase and time it has saved me keeping on top of the race skis in the family.
 

Atomicman

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I recently bought a Razor-Tune. It's a power sharpener for ski side edges. I decided to document my first time using it. I tested on an old Blizzard GSR. The photos were taken with a macro lens and cropped/resized so they represent the same exact section of side edge with the same number of pixels.

Here's what the ski looked like before. It had a coat of storage wax over a hand tune. I rubbed off most of the wax with a cloth.
full


After 4-5 passes with the coarse wheel, it looked like this:
full


Next I did 6-8 passes with the medium wheel and got this:
full


I then put some WD-40 on the fine wheel and did four passes, yielding this:
full


I then polished the base edge with a yellow (400) Moonflex in a 1-degree guide and got this (not much different):
full


Finally, for comparison, I hand polished the side edge with a yellow Moonflex in a 3-degree guide, resulting in this:
full


The Razor-Tune comes from the factory set for 3-degrees. There's also a 2-degree plate in the box. It's pretty straightforward to use if you're coordinated enough to hand-tune skis. The coarse and medium wheels will make some sparks. Due to the metal dust, it's a good idea to wear a respirator.

The sharpening gets a little tricky near the tips and tails due to the compound curves and lack of purchase for the guide bearings. It may be a good idea to sharpen these areas by hand. Or, maybe these areas don't need sharpening. My whole point in buying this was to save time.

To me, the last two photos both look pretty good. Clearly, the scratch patterns go in different directions. Accounting for that, I think the result from the Razor-Tune is actually finer. I suspect that the diagonal grind may cut into ice better than the parallel pattern.

At the moment, I'm a satisfied customer. It remains to be seen how much af a hassle the metal dust ends up being for indoor use. Also, we'll see if the noise wakes my kids at night. It's not super-loud, but it is an electric grinder after all.
The instructions say to come straight off the tail. , There is no need to sharpen the part of the tail that curves back in. When you start the Razor tune at tip or tail, you want to closely align with the skis contact points....generally the widest part of the tip and tail. So your bearing purchase comment should be (is for me anyway) a non issue. You don't need to sharpen past the contact points. And yes the etching pattern from the disc definitely makes for a grippier edge. I also think you are making way too many passes. I have never done more than 3. I have only had to use the Medium disc. And I ordered mine with a 3 degree and 4 degree plate. I have no use for a 2. My skis have skied absolutely perfectly with tons of edge grip And I can't see any of the phots...Just an
 
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oldschoolskier

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Something my grandfather said when I was very young, take off just enough to get the edge (he was a master tool and die machinists old school training).

So I’m in agreement with @Atomicman that just least amount of passes required just to get the edge is enough, anything more is waste of ski, stone and effort.
 

MingDao

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Oct 10, 2017
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I am looking at the purchase of the RT machine to upgrade my ageing SkiMan Bravo, and I wonder how does it deal with the sidewall plastic and titanal (aluminum)? Do you need to cut the sidewall every so often for RT to work properly? How do the RT grinding discs hold up if you do not?
SkiMan Bravo grinds through everything and I do not bother stripping the sidewall anymore, but on the other hand, I change the grinding belt after sharpening 3-4 skis. Belts are basically free (like 20 cents), compared to the discs used by RT.
 

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