LOL
You don't want the edge sharpened beyond the point where the base contacts the snow. If you're skiing in a frozen rut, you don't want a sharp edge on the curve to grab the sides of the rut and throw you around.The sharpening gets a little tricky near the tips and tails due to the compound curves and lack of purchase for the guide bearings. It may be a good idea to sharpen these areas by hand. Or, maybe these areas don't need sharpening.
You don't want the edge sharpened beyond the point where the base contacts the snow. If you're skiing in a frozen rut, you don't want a sharp edge on the curve to grab the sides of the rut and throw you around.
You don't want the edge sharpened beyond the point where the base contacts the snow. If you're skiing in a frozen rut, you don't want a sharp edge on the curve to grab the sides of the rut and throw you around.
The easiest way to explain detune is...
If you have to detune you are not as good as you think you are.
Sorry really gotta disagree here, it is still an issue, nothing to do with old school, just individuals not understanding how edging works. Primarily you can’t ski neutral and balanced. Alignment may occasionally be an issue, but most cases it’s poor skiing. This applied then and really applies now.I would say if you have to detune, your boot alignment is off. Further, old school mentality was detune to contact points. On a rockered ski like the Rossignol, how far back would you detune.
If I remember Ted's tech rounds off the shovels and very end of the tails. Also increases the bevel there as well, not shooting for a specific angle, just "more" than what was put on the machine base tune.
I recently bought a Razor-Tune. It's a power sharpener for ski side edges. I decided to document my first time using it. I tested on an old Blizzard GSR. The photos were taken with a macro lens and cropped/resized so they represent the same exact section of side edge with the same number of pixels.
Here's what the ski looked like before. It had a coat of storage wax over a hand tune. I rubbed off most of the wax with a cloth.
After 4-5 passes with the coarse wheel, it looked like this:
Next I did 6-8 passes with the medium wheel and got this:
I then put some WD-40 on the fine wheel and did four passes, yielding this:
I then polished the base edge with a yellow (400) Moonflex in a 1-degree guide and got this (not much different):
Finally, for comparison, I hand polished the side edge with a yellow Moonflex in a 3-degree guide, resulting in this:
The Razor-Tune comes from the factory set for 3-degrees. There's also a 2-degree plate in the box. It's pretty straightforward to use if you're coordinated enough to hand-tune skis. The coarse and medium wheels will make some sparks. Due to the metal dust, it's a good idea to wear a respirator.
The sharpening gets a little tricky near the tips and tails due to the compound curves and lack of purchase for the guide bearings. It may be a good idea to sharpen these areas by hand. Or, maybe these areas don't need sharpening. My whole point in buying this was to save time.
To me, the last two photos both look pretty good. Clearly, the scratch patterns go in different directions. Accounting for that, I think the result from the Razor-Tune is actually finer. I suspect that the diagonal grind may cut into ice better than the parallel pattern.
At the moment, I'm a satisfied customer. It remains to be seen how much af a hassle the metal dust ends up being for indoor use. Also, we'll see if the noise wakes my kids at night. It's not super-loud, but it is an electric grinder after all.
If I remember Ted's tech rounds off the shovels and very end of the tails. Also increases the bevel there as well, not shooting for a specific angle, just "more" than what was put on the machine base tune.
And with the Snowglide (similar to the Razr Tune) the disc using some spring pressure and the force of the spinning to pull the disc to edge at a very constant pressure.
Literally all you have to do is keep the guide bearings on the ski and keep the machine moving at a constant rate.
Among a few additional factors, I opted for the AFL as it has raised round stainless steel guides under the machine. That slight additional height actually makes it easy to get into the tips and tails, something the AFC or other units have more trouble with.
Protek uses a similar spring pressure on the tray as well, but has a cutting depth adjustment as well.
I have the Protek and the titanal layer and the plastic sidewall will really get in the way if it's not pulled back. That titanal layers doesn't grind away nearly as easily as the sk edge.
Might I suggest a 0.5/4 just be careful it is aggressive and can catch if not skied balanced. I don’t race but I love it on Ontario conditions.Pretty close to pulling the trigger on this or the Swix (Or if I could find a great deal on a used Protek) Question...., has anyone skied on this Razor-Tune on ice? I am a Master's racer and never seem to get my edges as sharp as the other guy. Getting tired of tuning for one hour plus before a race. I race in Ontario....and it's icy.
Tia