Whatta I know, but.....
Apologies, but using these skis for racing (where 1/1000th second counts) versus recreationally (where optimal edge engagement and dynamic experience/feel alone are king), are, in my experience, probably a bit different.
For recreational use, IMHO, preserving the life of the ski becomes relatively more important; whereas for competitive racing, labor time in the clutch and the last 1/10,000th of speed matter more.
For example, seems like if I use for initial edge set a standard three or four file progression (including the standard use of progressive sandpaper, etc. treatment on base and at base plastic/metal edge interface) from bastard file, to second and third file, to finest file, to progressively, say, 100 through 600 diamond in c. 100 intervals; then use 600 ceramic, and then with alternating strokes 1200 ceramic finished by 1500 diamond stone (for last burr removal), by hand - that's fast, smooth and sharp.
And at least recreationally, with few gates, all I usually need for maintenance for some time afterwards is the use of 200 and finer - often only 600 ceramic and finer, to keep that sucker super sharp and smooth, no burrs, no rounding. No loss of performance (recreationally) - that I can so far discern, at least.
Tuning in this way - often maintaining proper race edges with 600 grit or less - seems to mean that the base will need flattening again (and thus the edges will need some file resetting), before another file sharpening/resetting by itself is required - all while minimizing edge wear. (Maybe
@razie's suggestion of adding a super fine file to maintenance rather than just initial setting procedure would improve things, not sure: haven't tried such variations in some years.)
In terms of just sharpness, honing with a fine white ceramic rod or stone (as fine as 1200) as last step is all it takes to keep a kitchen, hunting or skinning knife absolutely razor sharp, enough to cut with no pressure. In practical terms, almost perfect sharpness, with alternating final strokes. The same would be true for ski edges. Actually, using a diamond stone 1500 for the last few alternating strokes eliminates the possibility of that last little bit of burr, as far as it being detectable with one's fingernail.
Held on edge at the right angle in the sunlight, there is no flat spot or bright reflection back anywhere: a perfectly sharp edge down to extra fine level.
Not sure how more use of files could improve on this, except eliminate very slight ripples, perhaps. That last 1/10,000th of speed.
Ok, drifting can be a lot of fun too!
