Race vs Regular Tunes

[MBF67]

what exactly is the difference between a race tune and a regular tune and why are race tunes so much more expensive?

I have a new pair of Rossignol Hero Elites and it was suggested to me that I shoul only have them race tuned, even though I don’t race. What difference will it make to my regular skiing?

 

[Josh Matta]

Really depends on the shop..... you have link to the shop doing the work?

 

[Jacques]

what exactly is the difference between a race tune and a regular tune and why are race tunes so much more expensive?

I have a new pair of Rossignol Hero Elites and it was suggested to me that I shoul only have them race tuned, even though I don’t race. What difference will it make to my regular skiing?

Maybe better ask the folks who are doing the work. Get the menu and read it. In general high end hand tuning will cost more because it takes much longer.
Good luck.

 

[BGreen]

That’s a question for the person doing the tuning. It could mean many things. Generally “race” is code for using fluorocarbon wax (or multiple wax cycles of fluoro wax), but it could also mean paying attention to edge angles and not doing a crap job. I’m pretty sure the serviceman that I just sent a dozen pair of skis to couldn’t tell you what a race tune is. It is just assumed that if you are taking him skis it’s because they need to be perfect.

 

[ella_g]

@MBF67 if you scroll down there’s what I think are pretty good descriptions of regular tune vs race tune on this link ... these descriptions seem pretty standard for places we’ve gone to. That said, if you’re doing recreational skiing, don’t get why you’d need to pay for a race tune, unless your super picky. But I’m 100% not an expert in these things! http://hobacksports.com/tune-shop/

 

[Primoz]

It depends on shop, but normally "race" tune, at least in ski services around here is understood as hand tuning (file, and diamonds), sometimes you can actually pick angles you prefer to have, and normally it ends also with waxing with LF or even HF wax for preferred temperature, while "normal/regular" tune is just getting ski through machine.

 

[François Pugh]

I had one expensive race tune at Sign of the Skier in Toronto. Skis were sharp enough to shave with tip to tail at my requested angle. Wax was scraped and brushed to perfection, even the centre groove (yes it was long ago) down the middle of my SGs.

I had a normal tune at a "local" (not my current location) ski shop that shall remain unnamed. Skis were almost sharp under foot. Tips and tails were dull and even still had a bit of rust on them. I then realized that I should be tuning my skis myself.

 

[MBF67]

Thanks for the responses. Most shops either don’t post the difference or the descriptions are similar to those in the link from ella_g.

Which begs the next question - if I have only had “regular” tunes my whole life, am I likely to notice the difference if I get the skis hand waxed and sharpened? Is it worth giving it a shot or not worth the bother?

 

[BC.]

Thanks for the responses. Most shops either don’t post the difference or the descriptions are similar to those in the link from ella_g.

Which begs the next question - if I have only had “regular” tunes my whole life, am I likely to notice the difference if I get the skis hand waxed and sharpened? Is it worth giving it a shot or not worth the bother?

Try it....I bet you see a difference.

I started hand tuning/wax/scrape/brush for family, friends and neighbors skis at my home and they have all told me the skis feel so much better than when they took them to “another” shop. They can’t believe how much “sharper” and “smoother” they are and how they glide right by others on runouts and flats.

So it’s probably worth a try.

 

[markojp]

High performance skis deserve a great prep tune in the hands of a great ski tuner. One should notice the difference assuming the boot set up is appropriate for driving a high performance ski. Edge bevels are your choice. They do make a difference. If you're new to this type of ski and don't really know what you'd like, a great technician can help explain what they think would be the best tune for your intended use and general local conditions.

 

[trailtrimmer]

Pre-season, my race skis get a full work up including a base flattening that refreshes the structure that is lost during many wax and scrape cycles. At my shop, it's considered the full Olympic tune. The rest of the season I simply use a medium and fine stone to keep the edges sharp.

If you are going to race it, do the full work up. If it's a free ski, set the sides to 3 degrees and go have fun, give it a full tune every couple years.

 

[Primoz]

Which begs the next question - if I have only had “regular” tunes my whole life, am I likely to notice the difference if I get the skis hand waxed and sharpened?

Honestly... I doubt you will notice much difference. Of course it depends on conditions where you ski, and on this how particular shop handles skis with their machines.
But what really matters is, that skis should be prepared pretty much after every skiing and/or before every new skiing. Doing this in shop would cost way too much money, not to mention getting skis through machines every time would shorten their lifetime to month or two at max, depending how much you ski. That's main reason, I always advise to everyone to get basic tools and learn basic things about ski preparation him/herself and do this stuff on his/her own. It's really not that complicated and on long run, equipment is cheap.

 

[MBF67]

Try it....I bet you see a difference.

I started hand tuning/wax/scrape/brush for family, friends and neighbors skis at my home and they have all told me the skis feel so much better than when they took them to “another” shop. They can’t believe how much “sharper” and “smoother” they are and how they glide right by others on runouts and flats.

So it’s probably worth a try.

Great. So if I bring my skis by tomorrow can you have them ready for Saturday?

 

[trailtrimmer]

If it doesn't include a real restructure, don't pay top dollar for a tune. High Fluoro wax is nice, but it's not worth the $35 they charge you for it when it's gone in a day of racing. Having proper structure makes all skis run faster and smoother, it's more critical than being off a temp range on the wax. If your shop has a simple belt grinder, go some place with a real machine and a good operator. I only pay $35 pre-season, half of the normal $70 charge for the full race workup minus HF wax.

GS/Speed

SL/Free Skis

 

[crgildart]

Race tune is probably geared towards skiing in rock hard injected surface where the edges, base, and wax need to be perfect and double checked. A regular tune for skiing groomers or off trail doesn't need nearly the level of TLC a competitor on a course would prefer/

 

[BC.]

Great. So if I bring my skis by tomorrow can you have them ready for Saturday?

Sure, anytime..lol.....

“The Basement Ski Shop”- serving the Lake Wallenpaupack Area for over 20 years.

“The Local”
Base/Side Edge sharpen
Iron wax/scrape/brush....25.00

In all seriousness, the reason a lot of the members on this site do it themselves, is because they want to know what was exactly done to their skis....therefore most likely the skis will perform better.

 

[BC.]

If it doesn't include a real restructure, don't pay top dollar for a tune. High Fluoro wax is nice, but it's not worth the $35 they charge you for it when it's gone in a day of racing. Having proper structure makes all skis run faster and smoother, it's more critical than being off a temp range on the wax. If your shop has a simple belt grinder, go some place with a real machine and a good operator. I only pay $35 pre-season, half of the normal $70 charge for the full race workup minus HF wax.

GS/Speed
View attachment 41654
SL/Free Skis
View attachment 41655

Great structure....thing of beauty.

 

[surfsnowgirl]

So then would a 1-3 tune be the inbetween between a race run and a "regular" tune. I don't do a race tune on any of my skis but typically put a 1-3 tune on my 90 and narrower skis hard pack never seems to be hard to find in New England. I just do a regular tune on my fatter skis.

 

[trailtrimmer]

So then would a 1-3 tune be the inbetween between a race run and a "regular" tune. I don't do a race tune on any of my skis but typically put a 1-3 tune on my 90 and narrower skis hard pack never seems to be hard to find in New England. I just do a regular tune on my fatter skis.

1/2 is normal recreational tune for soft conditions, non-carving skis and beginners to intermediates. Hard conditions are usually tuned for 1/3 and for advanced and expert skiers. Race tunes may get as aggressive as .5/4 on SL skis, but most GS skis are .5, .75. or 1/3.

Good structure is still really helpful even on recreational skis, when the snow gets wet, they glide so much smoother and faster.

 

[surfsnowgirl]

1/2 is normal recreational tune for soft conditions, non-carving skis and beginners to intermediates. Hard conditions are usually tuned for 1/3 and for advanced and expert skiers. Race tunes may get as aggressive as .5/4 on SL skis, but most GS skis are .5, .75. or 1/3.

Good structure is still really helpful even on recreational skis, when the snow gets wet, they glide so much smoother and faster.

Thanks. Sounds like I'm on the right track then as I put a sharper tune aka 1-3 on my narrower skis and a regular 1-2 tune on my fatter skis since edge hold isn't what I'm skiing them anyway. It was a suggested I put a .75-3 tune on my Rally's so I'll perhaps do that next season. I guess that would be a race tune then? If so hopefully I get to specify the .75 part of the equation.