Pozi drive bit or screwdriver

[KingGrump]

This is getting as good as the "show me your ski quiver" thread.

 

[Steve]

Pozitively!

 

[mdf]

This is getting as good as the "show me your ski quiver" thread.

So, do you handle your pozidrive quiver like you ski quiver? Keep track of how many days each has been used and scrap them at 100?

 

[Uncle-A]

This is getting as good as the "show me your ski quiver" thread.

It is Summer and this is ski related, you have something better to talk about? Start another thread..

 

[cantunamunch]

It is Summer and this is ski related, you have something better to talk about? Start another thread..

He can stay here, he just has post pictures of his sister's Pozi.

 

[Uncle-A]

He can stay here, he just has post pictures of his sister's Pozi.

can tuna munch don't be a DOM

 

[Doug Briggs]

Since we are letting our geek flags fly, you can tell a Pozi from a Phillips by looking for the 4 'extra' ridges.

The one on the left is a PZ3 the right a P2 so not exactly the same (and neither are 'current' so please disregard their condition). You can see why grinding the tip off is necessary for a P to become a PZ substitute, but you can't add the extra ridges which in theory help make a more Pozi-tive connection between the screw and driver. So @Uncle-A 's suggestion to grind down a P to make an ersatz PZ will work, but never as well as a real PZ.

You can tell a Pozi drive screw by looking at the head. It has extra marks that coincide with the extra ridges on the bit. Again it is a PZ 3 on the left and a P 2 on the right (I'm guessing on the P 2).

It is hard to render the depth of the PZ screw, but it matches the blunt PZ driver. The P is a deeper, pointer depression.

Aaaw. Geek out!

 

[KingGrump]

So, do you handle your pozidrive quiver like you ski quiver? Keep track of how many days each has been used and scrap them at 100?

Hey, how ya know?

 

[KingGrump]

He can stay here, he just has post pictures of his sister's Pozi.

Sorry dude, this is a family friendly site.

 

[Steve]

I'm starting to wonder if this thread is just a pozi scheme.

 

[John Webb]

Since we are letting our geek flags fly, you can tell a Pozi from a Phillips by looking for the 4 'extra' ridges.

Do we geek out here ! Of course

Amusing thing is the europeans love to put Pozi screws on everything possible but they were first used/made in US.
I buy these drivers any time I'm in europe. as the screws are rare in US.

 

[cantunamunch]

Since we are letting our geek flags fly, you can tell a Pozi from a Phillips by looking for the 4 'extra' ridges.

...snip...

You can tell a Pozi drive screw by looking at the head. It has extra marks that coincide with the extra ridges on the bit. Again it is a PZ 3 on the left and a P 2 on the right (I'm guessing on the P 2).
...snip...
Aaaw. Geek out!

And if it has only two hash marks it is actually Supadriv; the 4-ridge Pozi driver will still work but the cut-down Phillips will slip out.

 

[François Pugh]

I recommend a screwdriver or very long bit; my socket set pozi-drive bit did not have sufficient clearance when installing my Comp 16s onto my Völkls.

 

[cantunamunch]

You still working those P50s?

https://www.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-542289/70412496/

 

[François Pugh]

You still working those P50s?

https://www.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-542289/70412496/

At home I'm usually on the Fischer SCs, and on the Machetes if I go to a nearby bigger hill and it's not icy, but if a big icy hill I will take out the P50s (and thee old SGs once in a while. Out west I rent a suitable pair for the day's conditions.

https://ca-en.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-542289/70412496/

 

[pchewn]

Since we are letting our geek flags fly, you can tell a Pozi from a Phillips by looking for the 4 'extra' ridges.

The one on the left is a PZ3 the right a P2 so not exactly the same (and neither are 'current' so please disregard their condition). You can see why grinding the tip off is necessary for a P to become a PZ substitute, but you can't add the extra ridges which in theory help make a more Pozi-tive connection between the screw and driver. So @Uncle-A 's suggestion to grind down a P to make an ersatz PZ will work, but never as well as a real PZ.

While the extra little ridges are a good identifier for the differences between Pozidriv and Phillips, the most important feature is that the Phillips has angled drive flutes whereas the Pozidriv has parallel drive flutes. What this means is that you can apply more torque using a Pozidriv system because the bit does not "cam out" of the screw head. See below (Phillips on right, angled, blue lines; Pozidriv on left, parallel, red lines)

 

[Swiss Toni]

https://www.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-542289/70412496/

You don’t need a screwdriver with a 10 inch blade to tighten the screws on a pair of bindings, one with a 6 inch blade is more than adequate and cheaper https://www.alliedelec.com/rs-pro-544724/70412521/ RS is the world’s largest distributor of distributor of electronics and maintenance products http://www.rs-online.com/ so quality should be OK. Amazon sells a Chinese screwdriver for $8.43 https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Authorized-Pozidriv-Screwdriver-Repairing/dp/B01IY94JHS?th=1 but the finish is very poor.

Pozidriv is a registered trademark of the Phillips Screw Company https://trademarks.justia.com/720/91/pozidriv-72091320.html but the screw drive / head recess seems to have been was designed in England by GKN Fasteners Ltd. They were assigned a UK patent in 1962 (GB1006509A: Improvements in or relating to screw threaded fasteners and drivers for use therewith), GKN subsequently patented the design in most other western European countries. Presumably GKN did a deal with Phillips, which might explain why they are everywhere over here but nowhere over there.

Even though the patents have long since expired and GKN stopped making screws years ago anybody who wants to use the Pozidriv name still has to obtain a license from Phillips.

 

[Doug Briggs]

While the extra little ridges are a good identifier for the differences between Pozidriv and Phillips, the most important feature is that the Phillips has angled drive flutes whereas the Pozidriv has parallel drive flutes. What this means is that you can apply more torque using a Pozidriv system because the bit does not "cam out" of the screw head. See below (Phillips on right, angled, blue lines; Pozidriv on left, parallel, red lines)

View attachment 50807

Thanks. I hadn't noticed that. That would explain why a Pozi won't fit into a Phillips properly, despite the tip being 'shorter', i.e. blunt.

 

[Doug Briggs]

@Swiss Toni , you don't need a 10" driver, but they are handy at the start for cleaning off the bottoms of boots. I don't think a 6" would have enough 'oomph' to get through what a 10" will.

I agree for actual binding work, 6" is sufficient.

 

[Uncle-A]

Do we geek out here ! Of course

Amusing thing is the europeans love to put Pozi screws on everything possible but they were first used/made in US.
I buy these drivers any time I'm in europe. as the screws are rare in US.

FYI Aside from the screws for bindings, some of the high end kitchen cabinet hinges come with PZ Screws.