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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) New Zealand 2019 Trip Report

RNZ

aka Ski Kiwi
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New Zealand
Matt, if you and Eric are looking for somewhere for breakfast tomorrow or a coffee then caffeine laboratory on the corner of New Regent Street, the one in your photo is excellent and highly recommended. The only caveat is if you want decaf, skinny, flavoured or any other coffee torture then this is not the place for you.
 
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Mattadvproject

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Love that powder!
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Nice one Matt. Got any plans for Christchurch? A walk in the Port Hills perhaps?
I see Porters got a sprinkling today.

Thanks Peter. Well, priority one was catching up on the sleep and I did that. Today I looked around the city center, took a bunch of photos and then met up with an old friend from Telluride, Colorado who I hadn't seen for several years and had moved to Christchurch. We hung out for a few hours then Eric and I went on a long walk to this really good lamb place where all they served was roasted shoulder of lamb and roasted potatoes. It was really good. I think I have to cut down on my lamb consumption though.... the van got dropped off in the afternoon and tomorrow we head to Flock Hill. I think we will stop at Willowbank Wildlife Preserve on the way. Time to see a Kiwi bird.

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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Love that powder!
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Matt, if you and Eric are looking for somewhere for breakfast tomorrow or a coffee then caffeine laboratory on the corner of New Regent Street, the one in your photo is excellent and highly recommended. The only caveat is if you want decaf, skinny, flavoured or any other coffee torture then this is not the place for you.

Thanks for the recommendation RMZ, I remember seeing that place this morning when I went on my first walk. I have breakfast included at the Hotel 115 and Eric is actually staying at a different hotel for these first two nights (he'll be staying at 115 when we come back to Christchurch on the way out) so I don't think we'll be able to check that place out. I'm not a coffee drinker myself. I have tried a few of the bars and really liked the little cafe/bar at the Heritage Hotel, that was nice. The Little High Eatery was good too. My waistline is off to a good start..... need to go skiing!

- Matt
 

RNZ

aka Ski Kiwi
Skier
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
169
Location
New Zealand
You found Pedro - defintitely a Christchurch institution. If it is not raining, then smash palace http://thesmashpalace.co.nz/ is good - haven't eaten there so can't comment on the food. It is an outdoor bar, but they do provide hot water bottles.

Talking to family, sounds like the snow has started to come, but there is a lot of catching up to do. Fingers crossed for more snow
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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Sunday 21st July

Checking out Christchurch

I’ll keep this post a little shorter given how long yesterday’s cautionary tale was. I had a good night’s sleep and woke up feeling refreshed. I had breakfast at Strait’s Café (yay Weetbix and toast with Marmite!) and then went for a quick stroll around. I had heard of the devastating earthquakes of 2010 and 2011 in Christchurch and wanted to see for myself, how the city was affected. The evidence was clear, empty blocks that had been cleared down to the foundations and plenty of abandoned buildings cordoned off, boarded up and (hopefully) still waiting their chance to be restored.

It’s a somewhat sad and somber scenario, no doubt not helped by the sleepiness of a Sunday morning in the city and the grey, rainy atmosphere, but there’s plenty to be hopeful for. All around was reconstruction and information about plans for progress. Many old buildings were lost, but they are working hard to rebuild and save some of the older structures left standing. Particularly impressive was they work they are starting on the Christ Church Cathedral complex. It will take time, but they are well into the project.

There’s a lot of new construction already complete in Christchurch, the city is definitely transitioning into the future. One thing that I really did enjoy was all the street art and murals. I found some really cool designs. That afternoon my friend Ryan, an old mate from Telluride, Colorado, came to visit me. He’s from the US but is married to a lovely lady from NZ and they are living in Christchurch. His wife is just about to have a baby (all the best guys) but he had a few hours to show me around. We had a quick beer or two at the old bar in the Heritage Hotel (awesome little spot) and then he took me to a great little restaurant-type place for lunch where they have a lot of little pop up eateries. We went to the South American grill and had some really nice lamb (I’m on a mission to eat a lot of lamb as I love it and rarely have it back home).

Then Ryan had to head back. I headed back to the hotel and not long after 4pm, Tony Wood from Pennywise Rentals, came and delivered our Toyota van to the hotel (amazing service, cheers gents!). We have a widebody Toyota Hiace AWD van and it will be great for the trip. Tony demoed how to put the chains on and got the van setup. Then we stashed it in the carpark next to the hotel. Perfect. We have way too much room (originally there was supposed to be 4 people on this trip but two people had to pull out) but it seems like a good vehicle. It’s the same as the ones we use in Japan but the wider version.

Once that was all taken care of, Eric came to the hotel and we went on a long walk for dinner. We went to Pedro’s Restaurant for more lamb (yep, I think I need to slow down on the lamb and eat more greens….) and it took about 30 minutes to walk there. For $50 NZD you get a massive shoulder of lamb and roasted potatoes. It was quite impressive. There were some tables inside so we could sit down. I wasn’t super hungry but I still ate a bunch (the diet will start tomorrow). It was simple but delicious. They do one thing only at Pedro’s and they do it well! I was thankful for the long walk back, to burn off some calories. Tomorrow we head to the snow!

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- Matt
 

NZRob

Skiing the Rock
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407
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Nice photos....Christchurch has had a very tough decade, and has a long rebuild ahead. Resilient people down that way though - Mainlanders.

Glad the trip has started well, and you've managed to arrive as a bit of snow has finally fallen at your target ski areas. Fingers crossed there are good conditions in them hills :)
 
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Mattadvproject

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Love that powder!
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Nice photos....Christchurch has had a very tough decade, and has a long rebuild ahead. Resilient people down that way though - Mainlanders.

Glad the trip has started well, and you've managed to arrive as a bit of snow has finally fallen at your target ski areas. Fingers crossed there are good conditions in them hills :)

Cheers NZRob. Just arrived at Flock Hill Station where we are staying for the next 9 nights. The views on the way were stunning! Amazing scenery around the Castle Hill area. Can't wait to explore more!

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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Love that powder!
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July 22nd – Heading to Flock Hill Station

It was time to head up to the mountains and hit the road again. I packed up the van and checked out of the hotel by 10am. I’m always a little nervous driving in a foreign country, especially when you have to drive on the other side of the road, but growing up in the UK and then Australia, I’m pretty used to driving on the left, so it only took a couple of people honking and flashing at me with their lights before I remembered….. no harm no foul! It was a quick 5-minute drive to pick up Eric at his hotel. Eric had suggested that we go and visit the Willowbank Wildlife Sanctuary on the way out of town. They have an excellent Kiwi display that is well-known.

It was actually a cool little side trip. I think they have done it well. There’s a few Australian animals in there (Wallaby, Cockatoo) as well as other domesticated farm animals (lots of different chickens and fowl, Llama, Alpaca, goats, sheep etc), but the highlights for me were the native NZ animals, including the Kea’s (always wanted to see them and you walk into their enclosure and you are right in there with them, that was really cool), the Kaka (bush parrot), Tuatara (an ancient reptile), the Takahe (water hen previously thought to be extinct) and then the big one, the Kiwi.

The Kiwi enclosure is really well done. It’s a large indoor, nocturnal enclosure with several Kiwi’s. It’s dark in there but you can just about see. We saw 3 Kiwi’s, foraging around in the undergrowth for insects. I couldn’t believe how big they were, they were quite large. Even though you were behind a barrier, you could get really close to them. It was pretty amazing. That was definitely a memorable experience (and-feeding the eels that they have would have been pretty cool too). They had lots of those in the waterways that threaded through the preserve. Definitely check this place out if you are in Christchurch.

Then we headed out of town. We had a stop in the little country town of Darfield. We had to pick up some groceries and have some lunch. We had a couple of meat pies at the Darfield bakery and they were really good. Eric’s had meat pies before so he’s already a fan. They had a huge selection of them. I think we’ll have to stop in on the way back to Christchurch to try more. Not too far out of Darfield, the scenery started to change as well. There was still low cloud hanging around, so we couldn’t see too much further afield, but it was getting hilly and there was a river flowing.

By the time we got to Springfield, we really started to get mountainous. The road rose steeply and we came to a summit and we finally crested through the clouds. The scenery beyond that was stunning; blue skies and the Craigieburn ranges, proudly coated in white. We drove past the entrances to Porters, then Cheeseman, then Broken River and Craigieburn clubfields, right next to each other, then the pretty enclave of Castle Hill (where they filmed the recent Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe movie, there is stunning scenery here). We had to stop a few times to take pictures as the lighting was perfect. Finally, we came down into a valley and there was the turnoff to Flock Hill Station, our home for the next 9 nights.

Tim, the Station Manager was there to meet up. We had our own private, 2-bedroom cabin and we were the only ones staying there. The views from the station are stunning, surrounded on all sides by the mountains. It’s an active sheep-farming station with over 36,000 acres of land. There are hiking trails you can do, plus mountain biking and great fishing. We settled in and around 6:30pm, Tim brought us dinner to our cabin. Amazing! Yep, you guessed it, more lamb (I’m having a lamb-free day tomorrow, but at least I only had 1 meal of lamb today, not too bad), but this time we had some lovely gravy and plenty of steamed veggies. I was really hanging out for some veggies…..

Tomorrow, it’s supposed to be cloudy and light snow on the mountains, so I think we might head over to the West Coast which is about 1.5 hours away. Then on Wednesday, it’s supposed to be fully-sunshine, so we’ll start skiing then. Looking forward to it.

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Willowbank Wildlife Preserve - Wallabies, not native to NZ, but have now become feral with introduced animals escaping and reproducing.


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My spirit animal, the Kunekune pig, he's a happy chappy, leading quite the life!


20190722_115634.jpg Our greeting party as we entered the Kea enclosure. I wasn't sure what would happen when we came up close to them, but they were pretty chill. They were more concerned about playing in the stream. One of them had a piece of bark and was enjoying thrashing it around in the water. Fun times!


20190722_115757.jpg This one was chewing on some black fabric.


20190722_115816.jpg They are beautiful birds, I'm definitely fascinated by them. Please just don't eat the van when we park it up at the clubbies!


20190722_154638.jpg Heck yeah! This is what we are talking about, the Craigieburn ranges looking splendid!


20190722_155006.jpg The clubfields line up all the way along the range.


20190722_155036.jpg Our mighty chariot, the AWD Toyota Regius. Plenty of room for only 2 people! We'll have plenty of room for any hitch-hikers. I think we shall name her Pegasus.


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Lovely stuff!

- Matt
 

Stacks

Stacks
Skier
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Posts
100
Location
Otago, Aotearoa
Dobson got 75cm from that weird little easterly front but I don't think that's going to help your cause. Good luck the season is going pear shaped pretty quickly. You may have to change plans and chase it wherever you can.
 
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Mattadvproject

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Dobson got 75cm from that weird little easterly front but I don't think that's going to help your cause. Good luck the season is going pear shaped pretty quickly. You may have to change plans and chase it wherever you can.

Yes, I think we need to head down to Tekapo area. I have a friend down there at the moment, will have to see what he thinks of the conditions.....

- Matt
 

Stacks

Stacks
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Joined
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Beta from 'Snow Reports from Space'!

We've been a bit quiet the last few weeks, mostly because there's been very little to report... Relatively high freezing levels accompanying the last storm mean that there is not much in the way of skiable snow below 1500 m across the South Island. There are a few exceptions visible through the cloud today though:
- If you're an xc aficionado, you might be able to have a bit of fun on the Lammermoor/Lammerlaw Ranges inland from Dunedin. Not much vert out there, but the snow is sticking around at 1000 m...
- A little further north, and off the beaten track, you might find reasonable cover above 1200 m on the western aspects of the St Bathans and Hawkdun Ranges.
- The upper Cass is looking ok in Canterbury, with the snowline around 1000 m.
- Similarly, the snowline from this storm looks to be around 1000 - 1100 m on the western side of the Two Thumb range, quite a bit higher (1300 - 1500 m) on the eastern side.
- Further north in Canterbury, not a lot going on below 1400 - 1500 m.
- The Nelson Lakes area is looking ok snow cover wise...

Given the warm temps through the last storm cycle, snow conditions could be expected to be "variable". As always, check www.avalanche.net.nz before heading out!

There's not a lot on the horizon in terms of snowfall within the next seven days either. Maybe some action from the south west next week, but it's a way out yet.
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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July 23rd – Exploring the West Coast

The clouds had set in again so with limited terrain and the prospect of poor visibility (plus 5 days of nice weather on the horizon, starting the day after), we made the decision to jump in the van and keep exploring the area. We decided to drive over Arthur’s Pass and up the coast to Punakaiki. It would take about 2.5 hours to get up there, not including any stops.

The mountain scenery was stunning as we drove to Arthur’s Pass. Arthur’s Pass is a small village with a general store and several houses. You can get fuel there (important to know that as fuel stations are few and far between in these parts) and snacks and some groceries. We kept going and drove past Temple Basin clubfield (closed till August 2nd sadly) and saw the goods lift where you drop off your ski gear before the hike up. Good to know where that is. Then we stopped at the Otira Viaduct overlook. The views of the viaduct are amazing. We also had our first wild Kea encounter. He didn’t eat any of our van thankfully, but was very curious and friendly and followed us around for a while. He was quite the chirpy chappie. Then it was a long drive along the Otira highway until we hit the coast, about 1.5 hours later.

We stopped just outside of Kumara Junction to get our first close-up view of the ocean. There’s plenty of good waves along this stretch of coastline but there were no surfers out which was a little surprising. We didn’t see any surf shops either, so maybe it’s not the spot to be catching waves? I don’t know. They looked good though. We passed through Greymouth and then carried on to Punakaiki. We stopped for lunch and then took a walk to Pancake Rocks and the Blowhole. There was a sealed path that takes you down to the cliffs with amazing rock formations. There are views of snow-capped mountains in the distance to the south (maybe the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park?) that are very unique. I’ve not seen snow-capped mountains leading down to the ocean like this before.

Then we explored a cave system at Punakaiki Cavern and then went to see a knife-maker where you can make your own knife and then throw axes at a wooden target. Unfortunately, that is an all-day affair, so we didn’t have time for that. We still had some shopping to do in Greymouth at the supermarket and then fill-up with fuel for the long drive back. It took me a little while to figure out that you pump first and then go inside and pay. They are very trusting in NZ (nice to see though). We tried to have dinner at a couple of restaurant’s outsides of Arthur’s Pass, but they were closed (it’s really quiet here after school holidays and a lack of snow), so I prepared some dinner back at Flock Hill.

All in all, it was an awesome day and I’m really happy Eric was up for some exploring. Often on these kinds of trips, it’s all about the skiing, so I’m glad we are mixing it up. I’m happy we have the van and can explore. Tomorrow we will be skiing though, I think we’ll try Porter’s just to ease into it.

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The Otira Viaduct


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Our first Kea sighting in the "wild." This chappie was really friendly and curious about us.




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It hopped around from rock to rock, staying close to us.


20190723_112557.jpg The beach before Greymouth, our first stop to check out the ocean.


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20190723_125053.jpg Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki


20190723_125107.jpg Ocean and mountains intersect. I think that must have been Aoraki/Mt. Cook National Park


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20190723_133211.jpg Where it hasn't been cleared for farming, the land is so lush and green. It's hard to imagine we were on a ski trip!


20190723_133253.jpg Welcome to the jungle!


20190723_134311.jpg What he said.....


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20190723_163023.jpg The most interesting pub in the world! The Otira Stagecoach Hotel, closed sadly.


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- Matt
 

Wasatchman

over the hill
Skier
Joined
Nov 9, 2017
Posts
2,337
Location
Wasatch and NZ
July 23rd – Exploring the West Coast

The clouds had set in again so with limited terrain and the prospect of poor visibility (plus 5 days of nice weather on the horizon, starting the day after), we made the decision to jump in the van and keep exploring the area. We decided to drive over Arthur’s Pass and up the coast to Punakaiki. It would take about 2.5 hours to get up there, not including any stops.

The mountain scenery was stunning as we drove to Arthur’s Pass. Arthur’s Pass is a small village with a general store and several houses. You can get fuel there (important to know that as fuel stations are few and far between in these parts) and snacks and some groceries. We kept going and drove past Temple Basin clubfield (closed till August 2nd sadly) and saw the goods lift where you drop off your ski gear before the hike up. Good to know where that is. Then we stopped at the Otira Viaduct overlook. The views of the viaduct are amazing. We also had our first wild Kea encounter. He didn’t eat any of our van thankfully, but was very curious and friendly and followed us around for a while. He was quite the chirpy chappie. Then it was a long drive along the Otira highway until we hit the coast, about 1.5 hours later.

We stopped just outside of Kumara Junction to get our first close-up view of the ocean. There’s plenty of good waves along this stretch of coastline but there were no surfers out which was a little surprising. We didn’t see any surf shops either, so maybe it’s not the spot to be catching waves? I don’t know. They looked good though. We passed through Greymouth and then carried on to Punakaiki. We stopped for lunch and then took a walk to Pancake Rocks and the Blowhole. There was a sealed path that takes you down to the cliffs with amazing rock formations. There are views of snow-capped mountains in the distance to the south (maybe the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park?) that are very unique. I’ve not seen snow-capped mountains leading down to the ocean like this before.

Then we explored a cave system at Punakaiki Cavern and then went to see a knife-maker where you can make your own knife and then throw axes at a wooden target. Unfortunately, that is an all-day affair, so we didn’t have time for that. We still had some shopping to do in Greymouth at the supermarket and then fill-up with fuel for the long drive back. It took me a little while to figure out that you pump first and then go inside and pay. They are very trusting in NZ (nice to see though). We tried to have dinner at a couple of restaurant’s outsides of Arthur’s Pass, but they were closed (it’s really quiet here after school holidays and a lack of snow), so I prepared some dinner back at Flock Hill.

All in all, it was an awesome day and I’m really happy Eric was up for some exploring. Often on these kinds of trips, it’s all about the skiing, so I’m glad we are mixing it up. I’m happy we have the van and can explore. Tomorrow we will be skiing though, I think we’ll try Porter’s just to ease into it.

View attachment 77568
The Otira Viaduct


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Our first Kea sighting in the "wild." This chappie was really friendly and curious about us.




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It hopped around from rock to rock, staying close to us.


View attachment 77569 The beach before Greymouth, our first stop to check out the ocean.


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View attachment 77571 Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki


View attachment 77572 Ocean and mountains intersect. I think that must have been Aoraki/Mt. Cook National Park


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View attachment 77575


View attachment 77576 Where it hasn't been cleared for farming, the land is so lush and green. It's hard to imagine we were on a ski trip!


View attachment 77577 Welcome to the jungle!


View attachment 77578 What he said.....


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View attachment 77580 The most interesting pub in the world! The Otira Stagecoach Hotel, closed sadly.


View attachment 77581

- Matt

You sure know how to take some pictures, Matt. Is that a cell phore or a camera you are using? Are those pix enhanced with filters, etc?

Glad you got to see some keas in the wild. They are typically not scared of humans at all, although sometimes to their detriment as you hear the occasional story of some jerk harming one. They are very unique birds. They can be destructive to cars at times, unfortunately, but it's hard not to love those birds. They are beautiful and have so much character. I love them.
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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You sure know how to take some pictures, Matt. Is that a cell phore or a camera you are using? Are those pix enhanced with filters, etc?

Glad you got to see some keas in the wild. They are typically not scared of humans at all, although sometimes to their detriment as you hear the occasional story of some jerk harming one. They are very unique birds. They can be destructive to cars at times, unfortunately, but it's hard not to love those birds. They are beautiful and have so much character. I love them.

Thanks Wasatchman. Yeah, I'm fascinated by the Kea's, they were pretty high on the list for things I wanted to see in NZ so seeing one yesterday in the wild, was definitely a highlight of the trip so far. I do love nature and animals..... The photos are just taken on my phone. I have a Samsung Galaxy 8 and it takes decent pictures on it's own, but I definitely like to tinker with them. I download them to the computer and then adjust the individual settings. I'm no expert but I know what I like. I definitely crop them to improve the framing of the shot and that often that improves the detail. Then I'll adjust the lighting (sometimes increase but often take down some of the exposure), then invariably I will bump up the color and then slightly increase the detail. Those are all the settings I mess with, so it's quite basic but I like the results compared to the original shot. It works ok I think, they definitely look better on a high-resolution screen though (which I don't have). Thanks as always for following and commenting Wasatchman. Time to head to Porters for our first ski day.

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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Beta from 'Snow Reports from Space'!

We've been a bit quiet the last few weeks, mostly because there's been very little to report... Relatively high freezing levels accompanying the last storm mean that there is not much in the way of skiable snow below 1500 m across the South Island. There are a few exceptions visible through the cloud today though:
- If you're an xc aficionado, you might be able to have a bit of fun on the Lammermoor/Lammerlaw Ranges inland from Dunedin. Not much vert out there, but the snow is sticking around at 1000 m...
- A little further north, and off the beaten track, you might find reasonable cover above 1200 m on the western aspects of the St Bathans and Hawkdun Ranges.
- The upper Cass is looking ok in Canterbury, with the snowline around 1000 m.
- Similarly, the snowline from this storm looks to be around 1000 - 1100 m on the western side of the Two Thumb range, quite a bit higher (1300 - 1500 m) on the eastern side.
- Further north in Canterbury, not a lot going on below 1400 - 1500 m.
- The Nelson Lakes area is looking ok snow cover wise...

Given the warm temps through the last storm cycle, snow conditions could be expected to be "variable". As always, check www.avalanche.net.nz before heading out!

There's not a lot on the horizon in terms of snowfall within the next seven days either. Maybe some action from the south west next week, but it's a way out yet.

Thanks for this Stacks. There's so many resources for forecasting the weather at the ski areas, I think we all have our favorites but this was a site I hadn't seen before. Thanks kindly for sharing it. Forecast is looking a little tough for snow right now. At least it's going to be sunny and we'll have some good visibility the next few days. At least it's not low tide with no visibility! We are making the most of it and expectations have been lowered accordingly. We are still having a great time. Just to be here in NZ, is a pretty special thing and I'm very lucky.

- Matt
 

NZRob

Skiing the Rock
Skier
Joined
Oct 8, 2017
Posts
407
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New Zealand
Great photos - such a magnificent area down the west coast. And you got your Kea! Great, aren't they hilariously inquisitive!

Really hoping your ski days are good, you've got such a great attitude to the fact that we aren't having a great season here. Safe travels :)
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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Joined
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Posts
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Location
Granby, CO
Great photos - such a magnificent area down the west coast. And you got your Kea! Great, aren't they hilariously inquisitive!

Really hoping your ski days are good, you've got such a great attitude to the fact that we aren't having a great season here. Safe travels :)

Cheers Rob, saw another couple of Kea's today at Porters. I definitely had to sit and watch them for a while. I love them! Thankfully they didn't go chomp on the van! I'd be lying if I said I wasn't hoping for better conditions, but the skiing is only a part of the trip. I'm loving it regardless. Getting frustrated is a choice I guess. I also have to admit that I am heading to Chile after this though and they are having a stellar season, so I know I'll get redemption then, so there's definitely that thought too..... Either way, I'm going to make the most of it here in NZ when I am here. Cheers Rob.

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

Mattadvproject

Love that powder!
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Way to go, don't sit around getting despondent, go exploring. The snow is not turning up the surfing has been phenomenal. The east coast going nuts.

Nice, I'm glad someone's getting some waves Stacks. Sounds epic! Do you know if they surf on the west coast? I know it's really remote, but it looked really good. Don't they get after it here too? Scored some amazing views at Porters today. What stunning scenery.....

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Some of the best views I've seen from a ski area and so unique. I definitely felt like I was in NZ today. I think Norway might have some views like this, I wonder where else?

- Matt
 

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