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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) New Zealand 2019 Trip Report

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Turoa Kiwi

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In an ironic and somewhat tough turn of events, all the clubfields here are closed, plus Mt Hutt is Mt Shutt! There's been a ton of new snow, but we have nowhere to go. Gutted.....

Hang in there my friend. The fields will be epic after this dump.I hope you have chains for your van. Practice putting them on You're going to need them!!
 
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Hang in there my friend. The fields will be epic after this dump.I hope you have chains for your van. Practice putting them on You're going to need them!!

Well sadly today was our last day as we have to be back in Christchurch tonight. Ironically I had just practiced putting the chains on two days ago, in preparation for today. Ohau claim on their website that they are open today, but their daily report contains a lot of old information that has not been updated, so it's hard to believe they have opened (especially given the seriousness of their road compared to some of the others closer to Tekapo) when no one else could. Even Mt Hutt is shutt. So, given Ohau is in the opposite direction to where we need to be and how far out it is, I don't think we can risk it. We really needed Dobson or Roundhill (Fox Peak hasn't been open all season I believe) to be open, to make skiing work today. Sadly, that did not happen for us today. Oh well. Bring on Chile in 8 days......

- Matt
 
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July 29th – Skiing at Roundhill

There were only 3 clubfields open (Fox Peak is closed due to a lack of snow), so we could ski each one, we just had to figure where conditions would be best. There is hopefully a storm hitting Ohau on the 30th July and Dobson is showing signs that it will receive the most snow on the evening of the 30th, so Roundhill it was. Unfortunately, the Heritage Express ropetow was not open and the runs on the Richmond Range face has not been open all season. That zone does look really good though. The ropetow does look a little easier to get started on as there is a decent downslope to make getting on easier. I reckon I could have done better on this tow compared to BR. Anyway, I digress….

It was about a 45-minute drive to get to Roundhill from our accommodation in Lake Tekapo. The drive was stunning, driving alongside Lake Tekapo with its turquoise water and surrounded by mountains. One of them was Mt. Cook but it was shrouded in cloud. The scenary is slightly different that the Craigieburn ranges, with more open valleys and weathered peaks. It all feels less abrupt. The road is dirt, but pretty easy going. There are some sections of corrugation, so I wasn’t going to go anywhere near the 100kmph speed limit. At the last minute, you turn off to the right and start climbing up to the ski area. The road is much mellower than the Porters or Cheeseman roads.

Roundhill is very popular with overseas race training groups and the carpark was full of vans and trailers, so we saw a lot of racers out training, but only a handful of regular skiers and boarders. A good friend of mine runs a training camp up there and he had said conditions were quite good. They have 2 t-bars, the longest and steepest nutcracker in NZ (not running) and a poma and magic carpet for beginners. The t-bars were nice and mellow and very comfortable to ride for a solo skier. The groomed runs were skiing really well and I could let my skis run a little (I’m on the Salomon QST 118’s, the only skis I have, so they are skiable on the groomers, but not as fun as an all-mountain ski or race ski). The views of the lake and surrounding mountains beautiful, even with the somewhat gloomy conditions. You can definitely tell a storm is brewing.

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Lake Tekapo and it's beautiful turquoise water. The color comes from rock flour, ground up rock particles from the glaciers.


20190729_100703.jpg It was a 55 minute drive to get to Roundhill and another beautiful drive. NZ has definitely been the most scenic trip I've done so far. Here at Tekapo the scenery is slightly different to the Selwyn area, with big mountains, lakes and more open spaces. I've loved all the scenery. We didn't get the snow but we did get the views and the clubfield culture.


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20190729_102917.jpg Looking up at the ski area. That big open face has the nutcracker ropetow going up it, but it has not been open yet this season. They just needed one more dump. Looks like the current storm should give them that.


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20190729_110931.jpg One of the two t-bars that gets you up higher. Mellow terrain in these parts, but nice groomers and would be fun with some carving skis. It's a great setup for all the raceteams that go there.


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20190729_111615.jpg Some tasty backcountry, but they don't want you to exit the ski area to get to it.


20190729_111621.jpg We definitely wished that steep face was open. Apparently it has the biggest, continuous vertical of NZ/Australia? Looked good though and would definitely bring me back to Roundhill in the future.


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The view from the Gluhwein bar.


20190729_123858.jpg Eric, your trusty bartender, at your service.


20190729_124108.jpg Love this little bar. Amazing views!


20190729_125605.jpg Baselodge and the lower t-bar. They have snowmaking so have a long and consistent season.


20190729_133859.jpg Church of the Good Shepard, the most widely photographed spot in Tekapo.


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Lake Tekapo


They have an excellent Glühwein bar near the top of the mountain and that has amazing views. I would have loved to have had a beer or two looking out at that view, but I was driving so no drinking for me. We skied a few more runs and were groomered out by about 1pm. Then we headed back to Tekapo and our first stop was at the famous Church of the Good Shepard, for some photos. Next we had a late lunch at one of the bakery’s and then went for a drive out of town to the west and then we came back and checked out the hot baths and the lake.

- Matt

 

Stacks

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Well sadly today was our last day as we have to be back in Christchurch tonight. Ironically I had just practiced putting the chains on two days ago, in preparation for today. Ohau claim on their website that they are open today, but their daily report contains a lot of old information that has not been updated, so it's hard to believe they have opened (especially given the seriousness of their road compared to some of the others closer to Tekapo) when no one else could. Even Mt Hutt is shutt. So, given Ohau is in the opposite direction to where we need to be and how far out it is, I don't think we can risk it. We really needed Dobson or Roundhill (Fox Peak hasn't been open all season I believe) to be open, to make skiing work today. Sadly, that did not happen for us today. Oh well. Bring on Chile in 8 days......

- Matt
Bummed for you, just have to come back another time? Some pretty amazing shots of Ohau doing the rounds so I did think they were up and running. Still I bet Chile won't disappoint. NZ skiing is a fickle beast.
 
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So you guys are outbound now? Hope you've enjoyed your stay, sorry you didn't get better snow conditions. Enjoy Chile!

Thanks Rob! Yes, I had an awesome time, regardless of the snow conditions. Just to be able to come to NZ, has been amazing. We didn't get the snow but we did get the views. I'm hoping that we'll be adding NZ to our scheduled lineup of trips in the near future. It ticks the boxes for terrain, culture, food, people and price. I think next time we'll come later in the season (looking at late August) and hopefully we'll get better snow.

- Matt
 
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Bummed for you, just have to come back another time? Some pretty amazing shots of Ohau doing the rounds so I did think they were up and running. Still I bet Chile won't disappoint. NZ skiing is a fickle beast.

Yes, I think we'll be back in 2020 or 2021, I've seen the potential and have had a great time in NZ, regardless of the snow. I was up early this morning, trying to find an option for us to ski. I did consider Ohau, but the report posted at 6:20am this morning was looking a little skeptical, I wasn't sure if it was legit as it had a lot of old information in it. I didn't trust if they were going to be open when all of the other local fields were shut down for the day. I rang the lodge and the girl from the Ohau Lodge didn't inspire me with confidence either. She didn't give any new info.

We'd been there the day before also and given we had to drive to Christchurch later in the day, Ohau was in the wrong direction. I think if we felt confident that the road and ski area was 100% going to be open, then we might have considered Ohau. I saw too late that it had been opened and we were already on our way back to Christchurch. If Dobson (our preference as we hadn't skied it yet) or Roundhill were open, then we would have gone there for sure. It was a blow not getting to ski today, but these things happen. I get enough quality days in myself that I'll get over it. I felt bad for Eric not getting decent conditions, but there's not much we could have done about that. So it's on to Chile on the 8th August..... Cheers Stacks!

- Matt
 

Stacks

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IMG_20190731_133754386.jpg
 

Stacks

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Ohau yesterday. The road would have been interesting after all that snow but good on them for opening. Good on you too for not being deterred and wanting to come back. August is the month to visit Aotearoa and I'm sure next time the clubbies will deliver.
 
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July 30th – Skiing at Ohau

Ohau is a clubfield about 1 hour and 10 minutes away from Tekapo, but it is in a different weather zone to Roundhill and Dobson, yet quite close as the crow flies. It was a beautiful drive along highway 8, but halfway, thick fog came rolling in from the mountain sides and visibility was extremely limited. That slowed down the drive a little. After the turnoff from the main road, we managed to punch out of the fog and we were right there at Lake Ohau, surrounded by white-capped peaks. The fog was still partially covering the lake and it made for an impressive view.

Even more impressive was the road that we could see cut into the mountainside. This one looked like it was going to rival Porters and Cheeseman and it did not disappoint. It was very exposed but not as many switchbacks as Porters with some very long traverses. The views just got better and better. When we arrived at the small, two-level carpark there were only about 12 other vehicles. We watched the skiers and boarders on the mountain for about 5 minutes and we counted about 7. Those are numbers we could handle.

We could see the double chair, plus the poma down lower. The chair would service most of our needs, with some hike-to access above the lift to the high point (Ridge Run). They were making snow on the main groomed run in preparation for all of the international ski teams that were due to arrive next week. We bought a lift pass for $100 NZD and they have a satisfaction guarantee where you have 30 minutes to decide if you like the conditions or not. If you don’t, then they will give you a refund. That’s a fair deal. We nearly used it when we did the groomed run down to the chair and it was solid. Thankfully as we got to the top of the chair, we could see some softer, wind-blown snow off the groomers and the terrain looked fun, with rock outcrops, steep faces and some chutes.

We did a run and decide we would stay and explore more. We went back up and went for the bootpack up to the top of the Ridge Run. It’s quite steep (having our packs would have made life a little easier, we got them for the 2nd run) and took about 15 minutes or so. There were 3 people in front of us kicking in steps so that made life easier. I took a run through a nice rocky face right on the skier’s right side of Ridge Run and Eric rode the main face, further the skier’s left of the bootpack. It was firm snow underneath with a little wind-blown fresh on top. It was still the best conditions of the trip so far.

We skied a few runs, skiing inbetween the rocky outcrops and then had a quick break for lunch. I had wanted to try a big open, rock strewn face way out to the looker’s left of the Ridge Run. We got our avi gear out and packs on and hit the bootpack again. In hindsight I should have started skinning from the top of the bootpack, but my skis were strapped to the back of my pack and I felt it easier to keep them on. The walk through the breakable crust snow was a little longer and more effort than I thought. Still, I made decent progress and dropped in, just as the first few flakes from the impending storm started to fall.

The slope was steeper than it looked and it really started to roll over. I had to do a couple of jump turns but it was fun and challenging skiing. It was breakable crust, with some patches of windblown snow, difficult conditions but it was fun to be skiing something that steep. My line took me to a small chute which would have required a short straightline. I was in two minds, if the snow was better then I would have gone for it, but I cut left and the slope widened. At the end, it really fanned out and I could let my skis run. I skied though an open bowl and waited for Eric down in a flatter section. Then there were more steep turns to be skied and I had fun racing my slough/icy death cookies down the slope.

That was it for the skiing. I met the mountain manager, Craig, for a chat about future plans and he was very receptive to the idea of partnering together. Then we headed down to the Ohau Lodge to check that out. What I thought was going to be a backpackers, was actually a sprawling lodge with hotel style accommodation, amazing views, a bar, restaurant and all the amenities (more than 60 rooms). It has an amazing location on the lakeside and would make a great base for skiing Ohau in the future. We chatted with the owners, Mike and Louise and they gave us a wonderful tour around the property. We enjoyed our time there immensely and hope to visit again.

Then we had the drive back to Tekapo and a race against the fog that was coming back down again. The rains hit hard in Tekapo that night, hopefully a big powder day tomorrow if we can find an open place to ride. Fingers crossed! I think Ohau was my favorite area and ski day for the trip. It’s got some great terrain, is very quiet and has great sidecountry potential. They are planning a new chairlift to be built for season 2020. Can’t wait to see that.

20190730_103733.jpg
The fog cleared and we came out into this view. Stunning! Lake Ohau did not disappoint.


20190730_104122.jpg That's the road, zig-zagging up the central peak.


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20190730_110902.jpg The base lodge and views of the main bowl.


20190730_110910.jpg They have a poma, a double chair, plus decent snowmaking. They were getting the main run ready for all the international ski teams training there next week.


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20190730_113148.jpg I had a nice run through the rocks, in the upper left of the photo.


20190730_115609.jpg At the top of the double chair, you can bootpack for about 15 minutes to get to the high point and some excellent sidecountry skiing.


20190730_115616.jpg


20190730_120521.jpg The view of the backside of the ski area.


20190730_121950.jpg A nice sidecountry bowl that we skied the next run. I went a little higher in the picture and skied a nice steep face, through the rocks.


20190730_121953.jpg About to drop into a nice chute.


20190730_123312.jpg The view from the base lodge.


20190730_151059.jpg
The road was quite sporty. I think it gave Porters a run for it's money in the sportiness stakes....

Overall, a great day was had at Ohau Ski Area. I'm going to say it was my favorite area for the whole trip!

- Matt
 

NZRob

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Thanks Rob! Yes, I had an awesome time, regardless of the snow conditions. Just to be able to come to NZ, has been amazing. We didn't get the snow but we did get the views. I'm hoping that we'll be adding NZ to our scheduled lineup of trips in the near future. It ticks the boxes for terrain, culture, food, people and price. I think next time we'll come later in the season (looking at late August) and hopefully we'll get better snow.

- Matt

If you're coming over late August then be sure to tack on a few days at Ruapehu on your way out in September, that's when the conditions there usually peak. Would love to show you around The Mountain :)
 
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July 31st – Leaving Tekapo

A bit of a heartbreaker! It started to rain heavily the night before and eventually turned to snow. By the time morning came around, it had turned to snow and several inches had fallen in Tekapo. My friend who runs a race camp at Roundhill/Dobson had warned me that most of the local areas (Dobson and Roundhill) likely would not open. Sadly, he was right. When I looked at the early morning snow reports, both ski areas were saying that they would be closed. Only Ohau was going to be open (how could they open and the others not when their road is super sketchy?). Unfortunately, we’d been to Ohau the day before (we really wanted to check out Dobson as we hadn’t been there yet) and given we had to drive to Christchurch later that day, Ohau was in totally the wrong direction. Mt. Hutt was shut too. So, frustratingly we had to admit defeat and head back to Christchurch. That was a bitter pill to swallow.

The roads were fine heading out of Tekapo. On the way to the city we stopped in Ashburton for a last pie and a trip to the Ashburton Aviation Museum. That was a nice couple of hours, checking out the military and civil planes they have on display. I chatted to some of the volunteers in one of the hangers and they let me climb inside one of the planes. That was pretty cool. Then we had a couple of hours to get to Christchurch and back to Hotel 115. We had a really nice dinner at one of the restaurants in the pedestrian street behind the hotel.

1st August

We were both feeling like taking it easy, so I caught up with some work in my room. That evening we walked a few blocks back to Himalayas Indian Restaurant for some awesome Indian food. The food was really good and we personally had to say thanks to the chef for preparing it for us. I strongly recommend Himalayas if you are in need of a curry in Christchurch.

2nd August – Exploring Christchurch and Leaving NZ

My flight to Auckland wasn’t until 6pm (Eric’s was at 5pm), so we had some time to kill. After breakfast, we went souvenir hunting. I bought my wife a nice greenstone necklace and some bee venom moisturizer (which she actually liked! I always struggle at picking presents for the wifey….). We had a late checkout at 12pm, so I had some time to finish packing my bags. Tony, the owner of Penny Rentals came by to pick up the van. He hooked me up with an even lower price and came to me, what great service. Thank you, Tony.

Next up, we jumped on the sightseeing tram. It’s $25 NZD for a full-day of access and you can hop off and hop on as many times as you like. It’s not cheap, but I think well worth it, if you are a first-time visitor and want to get the lay of the land quickly and comfortably. The tram does a loop of the city center and you can see all the major sites. I wish I had done that on my first day in Christchurch at the start of the trip.

We didn’t have too much time as we had our lift to the airport coming for us at 3pm. The priority to was to head to see Quake City (stop 15 on the map) and then the Botanical Gardens. Quake City is a museum/display that chronicles the two catastrophic earthquakes that destroyed much of Christchurch, in 2010 and 2011. It costs $20 NZD per person and is well worth seeing, if you want to understand what happened to the city and how devastating the quakes were, plus learn about what they are doing to rebuild and guard against future shocks. It’s an amazing but sobering experience and it’s all very well done. There are several interactive displays, video’s and plenty of information and pictures. I definitely recommend that and I appreciated greatly the perspective it gave me.

The Botanic Gardens were only a couple of blocks away, so it only took about 5 minutes to walk there from Quake City. It must be really nice to have free, public gardens right in the heart of the city. Unfortunately, the gardens were not blooming, given that it is wintertime, but there were a few blossoms starting to come out on some trees. The native NZ garden was really cool, with beautiful Silver Ferns and lush trees, creating a jungle-like atmosphere. I looked for some Kiwi birds but couldn’t find any….

Then we had to head back towards the hotel. There is a pop-up food truck area on Friday afternoons in the square near the destroyed church, so we had a late lunch and then headed to meet our ride. It was a quick 20 minutes to the airport. We checked in and then Eric’s flight was first (after a 45-minute delay) and then mine at 6:10pm. It was a mad dash to get from the domestic terminal to the international terminal in the wind and rain. Then my gate was at the far end of the airport, with a stop for a bunch of security questions from the airport staff. I only just made it in time.

The flight was fine, I slept a bit and got a couple of movies in. When I arrived in LA, we were a little late and our ski bags took a long time to come out. I was able to check in my two checked bags onto the next flight and head to security. They were training a baggage inspector so the line was moving super slow. They were inspecting each bag in minute training. It took forever. Finally, what was supposed to be a 10-minute walk, turned into a 30-minute hustle to get from the International Terminal to Terminal 7 with all the renovations they are doing. I made it to the gate as boarding started. It was a 1 hour 40-minute flight back to Denver and finally I could get some sleep. That was the end of the NZ adventure!

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Glad the ski areas got some much needed snow, a little sad we weren't able to get amongst it.


20190731_133811.jpg Why get face-shots when you can visit the Ashburton Aviation Museum?! Exactly! The BAE Harrier Jump Jet, my favorite exhibit.


20190731_133948.jpg The cockpit was tiny, there's no way I could have fit in there....


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20190731_135708.jpg De Havilland Vampire


20190731_140555.jpg Skyhawk, the last NZ jet fighter.


20190731_194550.jpg My mission was to eat a lot of lamb in NZ and I'm going to say I was very successful in my mission. I have to say these lamb shanks at the 27 Steps Restaurant were the best of the trip.


20190802_121605.jpg The scenic tram, a great way to see all the major sites in the city, in comfort and convenience. At $25 NZD it was a little expensive, but definitely worth it for a first-time visitor to Christchurch, to get the lay of the land quickly.


20190802_130231.jpg Quake City, another must-see. This was a sobering reminder of the hardships faced by the people of Christchurch during the devastating earthquakes of 2010 and 2011.


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20190802_135126.jpg I can imagine the Botanic Gardens are beautiful in the spring. It's a nice feature to have a space like that, for free, in the heart of the city.


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20190802_141108.jpg My favorite part was the native NZ garden. The lush, dark undergrowth of the Silver Ferns was nice.


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20190802_143559.jpg The River Avon that winds it's way through the city, would be a great time on one of the punts, in the summertime.


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Scott of the Antarctic statue.


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Pop up food trucks on a Friday afternoon, before heading to the airport.

- Matt
 
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Mattadvproject

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You snagged some great photos, captured the unique views from the Southern Alps beautifully.

Thanks Rob, NZ proved to be one of the most beautiful spots I've ever been to. It gave Gulmarg and Georgia, a run for their money. I met a let of friendly people, I loved the atmosphere of the clubfields, ate a lot of good food and overall had a great time, despite the snow. Next year, I'll come back later (looking at August or September, but have to work it around Chile). Thanks for all the NZ crew who participated in this blog, you made some great suggestions and helped share your passion for your mountains, which was greatly appreciated. Cheers crew!

- Matt
 

Turoa Kiwi

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If you're coming over late August then be sure to tack on a few days at Ruapehu on your way out in September, that's when the conditions there usually peak. Would love to show you around The Mountain :)

Well Matt , if Rob isn't around when you come back ,drop me a line. I would be happy to show you around Turoa and Whakapapa as well. (They both currently have over a two metre base after the last storm ) Late August is a good time to start a ski trip in NZ Thanks for showing off our beautiful country and the fantastic little uncrowded club fields with your awesome photos and commentaries
 
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NZRob

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Well Matt , if Rob isn't around when you come back ,drop me a line. I would be happy to show you around Turoa and Whakapapa as well. (They both currently have over a two metre base after the last storm ) Late August is a good time to start a ski trip in NZ Thanks for showing off our beautiful country and the fantastic little uncrowded club fields with your awesome photos and commentaries

How about a Ruapehu gathering! Might just be 2 or 3 of us lol
It's starting to look sweet for spring @Turoa Kiwi
 
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I just made a quick edit from Ohau. I didn't take much video for the NZ trip due to the fact that we skied mostly groomers as the off-piste was solid. Here's a clip from Ohau where we had a tiny bit of wind-blown snow and that softened things up just a tad. I liked these lines (relatively easy hikes from the chair) due to the aesthetic appeal. It was really nice skiing inbetween the rocks and having Lake Ohau off in the distance. That was pretty special!


- Matt
 
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