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New Rustler 11s mounted and skins fitted!

Brock Tice

Out on the slopes
Skier
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Posts
405
After demoing, exploring ski and binding options, and taking a backcountry skiing intro class, it's finally all come together.

This is my first ever self-mounting of bindings, using the TGR templates, and I have to say it was fairly easy. I did use the correct tools -- a stepped drill bit and posi-drive screwdrivers, which definitely helped. I will be mounting all my own bindings in the future.

I think they turned out pretty good. Can't wait to try them later this week, I might have to sneak away from work for at least a half-day.

Parts:
Blizzard Rustler 11 188s 2019 ed.
Atmoic Shift 13 MNC bindings
G3 Alpinist Skins w/
G3 Alpinist twin tip adapters


rustler_11s_top.jpg
rustler_11s_bottom.jpg
 
Last edited:

mdf

entering the Big Couloir
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Team Gathermeister
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What did you do to keep the bit vertical? Drill press? Freehand?
The last time I did my own we had an ancient Bridgeport at work, which was way overkill but reassuring.
SInce it is gone (sold as scrap:nono:) I bought a gizmo for home (SVST, if I remember correctly). It has a short collar for the bit and a slotted plate to clamp the collar. I've owned it several years but have not tried it.
 
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Brock Tice

Brock Tice

Out on the slopes
Skier
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Posts
405
What did you do to keep the bit vertical? Drill press? Freehand?
The last time I did my own we had an ancient Bridgeport at work, which was way overkill but reassuring.
SInce it is gone (sold as scrap:nono:) I bought a gizmo for home (SVST, if I remember correctly). It has a short collar for the bit and a slotted plate to clamp the collar. I've owned it several years but have not tried it.

I just did it handheld. We have a drill press here at the office where I mounted them but it's overkill, I can see they don't need to be THAT precise. No problems getting the screws in straight.
 

CoastToCrestBD

In the parking lot (formerly "At the base lodge")
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Dec 9, 2019
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2
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California
I just purchased the same exact set up, pending installation. Two questions, what brake widths did you go with and after spending some time on this particular set up- impressions? Thanks!
 
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Brock Tice

Brock Tice

Out on the slopes
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Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Posts
405
120mm brakes. They work great! I have had a few improper brake deployments going uphill but I think it is down to me knocking them with the other ski. As I get better at the motion it has not happened in a while. MAKE SURE you lock the toe lever all the way down on the pins for ski mode, and all the way up (second click) for walk mode.
 

CoastToCrestBD

In the parking lot (formerly "At the base lodge")
Skier
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Posts
2
Location
California
Thanks for the feedback. Where did you mount them on the skis in relation to recommended, They’re pretty long Skis without being overly aggressive on the rocker so I was considering going a touch forward of recommended to increase driving power but I don’t want to lose float.
 
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Brock Tice

Brock Tice

Out on the slopes
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Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Posts
405
Being new at mounting I just stuck with the suggested location.
 

Slim

Making fresh tracks
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Oct 2, 2017
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Regarding the skins:
I fold mine tip to center and tail to center. If you do the same, you might consider trimming the skins a bit more:
Cutting the very front end of the skins narrower than the width of the ski, straightening the side of the widest bit:
  • The rockered tip doesn’t really provide much grip anyway. Loosing a few mm of skin width there won’t matter.
  • That way, when you when you fold them, you don’t have (as much) skin glue exposed(since the wider tip fold to the narrower center). This will prevent the glue from picking up debris as quickly/keep your clothes cleaner if you stuff them inside your jacket
  • having the skin flare out less from the tip clip will help prevent snow from creeping under the skin, causing the curved edges to peel off the ski.
  • Having less difference between widest and narrowest part of your skins makes for easier packing.
 
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