Here's what I am doing starting from this summer for new racing skis prep for a junior racer.
I totally understand it's a definitely overkill at his age but I would like to explore and learn how to mix and match.
1. Base clean BP 88 hot scraping : iron in -> scraping off (1~2 cycles).
2. BP 88 base saturation : iron - cool (over night) - iron - cool without scraping wax off in between (repeat 5~6 times)
3. BP 88 was scrape off, brush, brush, brush.
4. CH6 hard wax : iron in, scrape off, brush
5. CH7 soft wax : iron in, scrape off, brush
6. Moly fluoro : iron in, scrape off, brush
7. CH3 powder along the edge : just iron in
8. Non fluoro (equivalent to LF/HF) wax of the racing day : iron in, scrape off, brush
Then I will just do one cycle of CH waxes as a training wax once a week.
So here are some questions.
q1. In step 2, as far as I read BP 88 can be repeatedly ironed in without scraping off. Is this right? Could I do the same thing for CH or LF/HF equivalent waxes as well?
q2. What's an overkill or totally unnecessary step from 1 to 8? Maybe moly except on the dirty snow?
q3. Fluoro wax is banned. Does it mean that the Moly fluoro conditioner is also banned although it's not a final layer of the wax of the day? What about the fluoro wax overlay?
q4. I have toko digital wax iron. I used to set the iron temp lower than the proper wax iron temp when I had an cheap analogue dial type iron because of the iron temp fluctuation. So this digital iron looks to keep the iron temp stable. Do you set the iron temp always at the designated temp or a few degrees lower? I am concerned if 140C for cold waxes might burn the base by iron? Is this absolutely no no or can it be possible?
Thank you in advance!
I totally understand it's a definitely overkill at his age but I would like to explore and learn how to mix and match.
1. Base clean BP 88 hot scraping : iron in -> scraping off (1~2 cycles).
2. BP 88 base saturation : iron - cool (over night) - iron - cool without scraping wax off in between (repeat 5~6 times)
3. BP 88 was scrape off, brush, brush, brush.
4. CH6 hard wax : iron in, scrape off, brush
5. CH7 soft wax : iron in, scrape off, brush
6. Moly fluoro : iron in, scrape off, brush
7. CH3 powder along the edge : just iron in
8. Non fluoro (equivalent to LF/HF) wax of the racing day : iron in, scrape off, brush
Then I will just do one cycle of CH waxes as a training wax once a week.
So here are some questions.
q1. In step 2, as far as I read BP 88 can be repeatedly ironed in without scraping off. Is this right? Could I do the same thing for CH or LF/HF equivalent waxes as well?
q2. What's an overkill or totally unnecessary step from 1 to 8? Maybe moly except on the dirty snow?
q3. Fluoro wax is banned. Does it mean that the Moly fluoro conditioner is also banned although it's not a final layer of the wax of the day? What about the fluoro wax overlay?
q4. I have toko digital wax iron. I used to set the iron temp lower than the proper wax iron temp when I had an cheap analogue dial type iron because of the iron temp fluctuation. So this digital iron looks to keep the iron temp stable. Do you set the iron temp always at the designated temp or a few degrees lower? I am concerned if 140C for cold waxes might burn the base by iron? Is this absolutely no no or can it be possible?
Thank you in advance!