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MTBR: Sram Eagle 1x12 Review

Philpug

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By Jason Sumner June 28, 2016

The first thing you notice about SRAM’s new Eagle 1×12 drivetrain is that it doesn’t feel much (if at all) different from the popular 1×11 systems most of us are already used to. Assuming proper rear derailleur adjustment, shifting is rapid and precise, each push of the shift lever quickly followed by movement of the chain and a reassuring “thunk” that action has occurred. Honestly, in a blind “taste” test you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference… until you jump into that 50-tooth cog.
eagle9-1024x768.jpg
Indeed, while SRAM has trumpeted a host of non-gearing related improvements between its 1×11 and 1×12 drivetrains, it’s the gearing that will always draw the most attention. With the addition of that dinner-plate sized cog, you now have a full 500% range, which on the bike feels a lot like what you get from a traditional 2x system, just with one less derailleur and shift lever.

That later fact was noticeably important during our first thumb-to-shifter encounter with SRAM Eagle at a recent Scott Bikes press launch in Lenzerheide, Switzerland. While we were impressed with the new Spark and Scale XC bikes, the constant presence of Scott’s dual-lever TwinLoc system on our test bike handlebars occasionally made things feel a little crowded. But when you add a 50-tooth cog to the equation, the front derailleur becomes obsolete, which forever minimizes cockpit clutter.

Get all the tech, weights, and pricing details on the new SRAM Eagle drivetrain here.

The best way to understand the gearing benefit of Eagle depends on past experience. If you’ve spent time on a 1×11 set-up with say a 32-tooth chainring paired to the 10-42 cassette, then making the switch will net you a higher high and lower low if you opt to jump up two chairing teeth to a 34. Or if you’re happy with your current climbing gear, you can jump up four teeth to a 36, which will maintain your current uphill gear, but add some top-end for your next enduro sprint. (Currently SRAM is offering chainrings from 30- to 38-tooth, which is what XC superstar Nino Schurter has been running since making the switch to Eagle.)....

Read the fill article here: http://reviews.mtbr.com/sram-eagle-1x12-drivetrain-first-ride-review
 
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AmyPJ

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I'd love to switch to a 1X system, but it doesn't seem it would be that simple with my current bike.
 

Erik Timmerman

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I'd love to switch to a 1X system, but it doesn't seem it would be that simple with my current bike.

Why not? It's pretty simple. Depending on what you have now, Shimano might be easier because SRAM's 11 and 12 speed cassettes require a different freehub body. Shimano will just slide on.
 

Josh Matta

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or use a shimano 11sp cassette at least. The cassette will work with any rear mech/derailluer.
 
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Philpug

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AmyPJ

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Hmmm...
Tempting. Although I think a dropper post is higher on the list at the moment. OK, I know it is.
 

Bill Talbot

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I LIKE a triple up front (or wide range double if I must). Front shifting has been great since at least the late 80's.
For me it answers a question nobody is asking. (kinda like SS mtbs)
 

skibob

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I LIKE a triple up front (or wide range double if I must). Front shifting has been great since at least the late 80's.
For me it answers a question nobody is asking. (kinda like SS mtbs)
I lean that direction too. I am sure that there are some extreme applications that benefit from it, but a 10sp rear seems sufficient for most recreational riding, road or mtb, regardless of how many rings there are up front. I've ridden 11sp. I really didn't notice the extra gear.
 

Mike Thomas

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I LIKE a triple up front (or wide range double if I must). Front shifting has been great since at least the late 80's.
For me it answers a question nobody is asking. (kinda like SS mtbs)

I understand where you are coming from (for you), but it is a solution a LOT of people were asking for. It is funny that the modern front derailleur is remarkably good... but not better than no front derailleur.
 

scott43

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I understand where you are coming from (for you), but it is a solution a LOT of people were asking for. It is funny that the modern front derailleur is remarkably good... but not better than no front derailleur.

Well...I've been in the game a long time..and that statement isn't entirely true. Depending on your situation and preferences, you may be right. However, there are situations where it's preferable to have a front derailleur.
 

Ron

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I get the appeal, simple is better but just not sure of the true gain. I don't think its a substantial weight savings and I am really happy with my 2x10 setup. Maybe I am not getting it?? I do know I want that 24 equiv for steep climbs but I am not really sure how to do the math on that.
 

scott43

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If you are not sensitive to cadence it's probably quite fine. In MTB, especially the way many ride today, it really is alright even if you're a bit strict on your cadence demands. But on a road bike depending on what type of terrain you're on, you may prefer the tighter ratios afforded by a tighter rear cassette. However, you may also need something for grunt climbing. You may be cycling at a 1%, 2%, bit of a headwind, bit of a tailwind, and that tighter ratio spread can be really appreciated. You may be varying your speed by 6 or 8 mph for 90% of your ride, averaging maybe 25 mph or better. Then you find yourself climbing for 15 mins at 6 mph or less. So there is a market for the front derailleur. And if you're using your MTB for quite variable riding, you may feel the same way about the front der. So I don't think it's an easy blanket statement, no offense intended to Mr. Thomas, in his context he may be quite right.
 

AmyPJ

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For me, it'd be strictly for weight savings. Maybe lighter wheels would be a better route to go for that. I never use the front when I'm actually mountain biking anyway. I tend to keep it on the inner ring (which is why I was tempted to switch.)
 

Ron

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For me, it'd be strictly for weight savings. Maybe lighter wheels would be a better route to go for that. I never use the front when I'm actually mountain biking anyway. I tend to keep it on the inner ring (which is why I was tempted to switch.)

WHEELS WHEELS WHEELS........ (and hubs too) its the best investment you can make in your bike (other than a proper fit of course) I was pretty impressed with the performance improvement with my I9 hubs btw.

And, next time you ride, try putting it it the big ring up front and the biggest gear in the back; you might be surprised how effective that is even on 6%-7% climbs. I used it today for a short 9% climb (im on an old school 2x10)
 
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scott43

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LOL. on my road bike I am 11x32 50x34 and I need everyone of those for pass's.

See, on a road bike the speeds are somewhat more variable. You know, on a downhill you may be hitting 45mph and you may want to keep pedaling. On a mountain bike, at those speeds you're generally more focused on staying on the bike. You can still have a fairly wide range of gearing, but on the road, the space between the gear ratios is more important. When I was racing road, I was using an 11-21 8 speed and even then there were times I missed the 18 and the 20! :D But it's mostly flat here and speeds were very high and you were mostly gearing for wind and minor hills. And at the end of the day, on the more serious hills, I'm doing 6mph. So you still need that very low gear....or you're walking..at least I am... :( But there is a market for a 1x11 or 1x12 setup for sure. I mean, I could see the 2x11 market 15 years or 20 years ago. I never used my granny ring on my MTB. It was completely redundant and I suspect that's the case for 80% of people riding. So I'm not surprised to see it disappear. But there weren't many saying that 20 years ago.
 

Josh Matta

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for me there is not single front derailluer that can keep the chain on its given ring during tough riding.

The real reason to go 1x anything is the ability to run a Narrow wide on the front ring. Anytime you pedal the chain is there every time.

Other reason are........

Shorter chainstays that can accommodate a larger wider rear tire.
less weight - no front shifter/derailluer/cable/front rings.
more clearance since the chainring is typically smaller than a typical double or triple set up
simpler shifting - never need to worry about your left hand. This is the sole reason my wife rides a 1x setup.
10 speed and 11 speed derailluer have clutches meaning almost no dropped chains.

Ron your biggest rig up front is not all that big. Simply put running to low of a gear is the same as running to small of a gear. Tons of people shift down and lose momentum instead of staying in a high enough gear and keeping momentum.

My 34 x 9-42 has a huge range and really never need lower gear, I can climb anything around here. I would place money that I can climb things that someone on triple ringed old school 26 could only dream of. and I can easily sprint to 30+ if needed, which riding singletrack is never needed.
 

scott43

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My 34 x 9-42 has a huge range and really never need lower gear, I can climb anything around here. I would place money that I can climb things that someone on triple ringed old school 26 could only dream of. and I can easily sprint to 30+ if needed, which riding singletrack is never needed.

So that's you...but others may not have the same requirements.
 

Ron

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well... not sure what you were saying about the ring up front but thats on my road bike; not on the mtn bike. Its geared for long steeper climbs like we have here. You are a very strong rider so its kind of hard to compare you and me. especially when I am 52 and have a couple of injuries that affect my hips and abdominals....
 
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